How to replace upper intake manifold gaskets

[egbutler1]

Well gents! I accomplished the mission thanks to this wonderful guide. I did get stuck up on the EGR tube but what I ended up doing was partly unbolting the left bolt on the EGR valve as well as the bolt on the dip stick. It gave me just enough play to get the intake free. Its been a week and all my problems have not returned. My gaskets where hard and cracked and really did need replacing. My gas mileage has improved quite a bit and my ranger purrs like a kitten. Now I just need to replace my ball joints. Thanks so much for this guide seriously you saved me 100's of dollars.

 

[lobo411]

Thanks for the part number for the fuel rail gasket (90732). I have a 1996 Explorer 4.0 OHV, and I bought the FelPro kit listed for my rig. It came with two paper gaskets that were 1/16" thick--no idea why, because these won't work on the fuel manifold (I tried...you have to have the 1/8" plastic as a shim) and the 96 doesn't use them on the upper intake manifold. I'm going to complain to Fel-Pro. I bought their complete Intake Manifold Gasket set, and it doesn't contain the correct gaskets. They don't list any other gasket as specific to the fuel rail. Is it really supposed to be up to us to do their work of figuring out what part numbers go with what rigs?

 

[ExploderGuy66]

I know this is an older thread, but I just started doing my upper intake gaskets (Plenum and under the fuel rail). I saw somewhere where a guy asked about a paper gasket that sits on top of the fuel rail and mine had it. After tossing it because it was in pieces my ex would start up fine but run terribly and it sounded even worse than when the P0171 and 174 codes first came on. After a little more digging I can see that there is a paper gasket that sits on top of the rail and under the plenum O-Ring gaskets. I'm attaching an image that was pulled from the ford parts site for my 96 engine (4.0L OHV). The only other question I had was what's with the hard plastic spacer under the fuel rail, it has a gasket above and one below, but nothing that I've found make a reference to this part. Anyways, I ended up having to buy the fel-pro valve cover gasket set, because nobody on Long Island seemed to have just the paper gasket (ford part 9E436). I'll write back to let you guys know if it solved the issue for me.

 

[ExploderGuy66]

Ok so another quick update, finished putting that gasket in on top of the fuel rail, put the plenum back in, torqued it down, hooked everything else back up to it and started her up and she's running again without any problems. I was thinking about it while I was putting it together, maybe my engine date needs that gasket, while later engines don't. All that's left to do is get an idler pulley and she's good to go for stock repairs. Can't wait until it's not below freezing so I can start upgrading things.

 

[tjsxplodr]

How long and hard of a job would this be to do on a 1991? My ex is leaking coolant from a corner of the intake manifold. I haven't done this before. What all needs replaced? I already know I have to replace the coolant temp sensor, as my temp gauge isn't working.

 

[Anuk Su Namun]

Excellent post
thanks

 

[MooneyIFly]

Took me about 1.5 hrs start to finish and I took my time.
Bill

 

[4.0blue98]

This was a great writeup. Just finished doing this myself. The only issue was the EGR tube. Could not lift the upper intake off after I broke the EGR tube free. I pulled the T-body to see why and found the EGR tube has a bend forward. Wouldn't clear the opening but If you lift the back of the intake and roll the whole thing forward it will clear. If you lift it straight up it will not come off.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Everyone, I really need help. My EX is still leaking coolant. I narrowed it down to what looks like right smack dab in the middle between the valve covers. I took it to a shop, they told me it was an intake manifold gasket. SOOO, I cleaned up the area surrounding the thermostat housing, and am now noticing a small stream of coolant leaking out of a gasket right in the middle, between the valve covers.



If it is indeed the intake manifold gasket, the shop told me it would be around $500 to fix.....

 

[tjsxplodr]

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nikbait/media/LEAK_zpsda9e6385.mp4.html

 

[MooneyIFly]

Sounds about right I was quoted 300 for the upper gaskets and the one you need to replace is below those (see parts breakdown above #9439 ) . I'd add another 1.5 hrs to my 1.5 hrs for that job since you have to drain the coolant, remove radiator hose,... etc.

BILL

 

[ExploderGuy66]

Everyone, I really need help. My EX is still leaking coolant. I narrowed it down to what looks like right smack dab in the middle between the valve covers. I took it to a shop, they told me it was an intake manifold gasket. SOOO, I cleaned up the area surrounding the thermostat housing, and am now noticing a small stream of coolant leaking out of a gasket right in the middle, between the valve covers.



If it is indeed the intake manifold gasket, the shop told me it would be around $500 to fix.....

Is that in between the valve covers at the very front of the engine (not on top, but above your water pump in front)? If so, then your coolant is probably leaking from the thermostat. I'd check that before I shell out a few hundred for a shop to do a job that might not even be necessary.

 

[tjsxplodr]

It's not leaking from the thermostat housing as far as I can tell...I cleaned up that area, and it wasn't wet there. It was coming from under that gasket on top of the lower intake manifold. And the leak is alot worse today.


These puddles were 5 minutes of idling in my driveway.....

I can't get my phone to take better pics because the area I am trying to describe is sorta hidden down in there.
The shop I am taking it to told me he will confirm the diagnosis before he starts the work on it.

 

[TbirdJoe]

little bit of a thread revival,

the studs that hole the fuel injection supply manifold onto the lower are torqued at 11 ft-lbs, the nuts that thread onto those studs which hold the upper on are toqued at 17 ft-lb.

With the exception of KaiserM715, how many of you held the stud while tightening the nut? Anyone have trouble with the stud turning if it's not held? This is a good write up, Thanks.

 

[4.0blue98]

I checked the torque on the studs but did not hold them when torquing the nuts. No problems here and no more P0171/P0174.

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Posted this on another thread...
If you don't have an E7 Torx, here's an idea I'm about to try. Run a couple of plenum nuts over the stud, tighten them together and use a 13mm socket to torque them! Should be fine for 11lbs/ft
http://dazzlindave.com/E7myAss.jpg

 

[jskatt21]

Dumb Question

Sorry to revive this once again, but looking this over the part number referenced is the Fel-Pro - Plenum Gasket Set MS90732 on O'Reilly. Just wanted to make sure as when I look for Intake Gasket for a 2000 Ford Explorer others populated.

Also, I am not afraid to admit I am a novice at best, but looking to tackle this none the less, and do not want to shell out $500 for a fix like this. I should have most if not all the tools, is this a pretty straight forward fix? I think the only thing i do not have is the torque wrench, but for what I am saving I can pick one up or borrow from someone.

My issue has been rough idle when cold, sometimes even dying, however when the temp is warm or Explorer has been warmed up, no issues.

 

[Dazzlin' Dave]

Vacuum Test

I had some vacuum leaks on mine. I rigged up a plastic hose and aerosol cap to pressurize my intake so I could spray soap bubbles (dish soap and water in a spray bottle) to find the leaks. I drilled a hole in the cap, fed a piece of plastic hose in the hole, then put a hose end from a compression fitting (the little brass piece that goes in the end of the hose, you could substitute a piece of tubing or even cut the end off an ink pen) then pull the hose tight so the piece in the end seals the hole you drilled and it won't pop out under pressure. Having the right sized cap, shove it onto the Throttle Body. Now you can either blow into the hose, or as I did hook it up to the air compressor, turned the regulator down to 20psi and used a blow gun. Once pressurized spray the soap solution around the top of the engine and if you have a leak the bubbles will show it. If you have another problem fix that instead and save yourself a lot of hassle and $$$.
I have a multi part issue... had vacuum leaks and fixed them, still won't run with the MAF plugged in... runs like a vac leak, unplugged it idles like crap and dies at every stop but runs like it should at full throttle. Anyone have suggestions on that?

 

[shamal]

Dave: What is that blue stuff on your torx bolts and fuel rail?

 

[MooneyIFly]

Looks like he used blue RTV on the threads just like on the manifold gasket. See the blue in the intake hole?