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How To: Replacing Front Hub / Bearing 1995+ Ford Explorer IFS

no, you wouldn't lose ABS, unless the sensor in your old hub assy is bad.

and obviously not exactly the same, but this is basically what the end of the abs sensor looks like

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i should have pulled it apart.. damn. thanks for posting that.

oh well, called 1a auto today and they shipped me a brand new one, with a return receipt. so i dont have to pay extra shipping for either part, and it should arrive in the next few days so i can finish it this weekend. they have great no questions asked customer service and i would recommend them :)
 






I just did my 2003 Sport Trac and this was identical; however, it did take quite a beating to get the bearing assembly to pull away from the hub. Mine cost about $230 with the sensor from NAPA made by SKF. The torque on the axle nut was 184 ft-lb. Although it was relatively simple mechanical work, I would not have done it myself with this post...thanks a ton!
 






Both hubs always engaged

Is the process the same for the 2001? Any major differences?

First I would like to say that the post regarding the hub change is the best I have seen and is at par with or better than many professionally compiled manuals that I see in my job. Thanks and keep up the good work.

My 01 is rumbling a bit and as I have confirmed during a front brake pad change the front shafts are turning with the hubs. I think I recall hearing/feeling the hubs engage and disengage when switch was operated but I don't hear/feel this know. I just hear/feel transfer case motor I am not a mechanic but I have been doing basic stuff with cars since I was 17. This is the first 4 x 4 I have owned. If someone can answer the following regarding the my front hubs it may save me some research.


1. Is the front hub able to be separated from the rotor on an early 2001 US?
2. What normally causes the hubs to engage?
3. Are the hubs electrically operated?
4 Do the ABS sensors provide the feedback that engages the hubs?
5. What disengages the hubs?
6. Is it worth the effort to strip down and service?

As you can see from my questions I do not know the principles of operation of the hubs so I am on a steep learning curve here.

I am in Australia so parts cost twice as much as in the USA and now that our $ has dived it is probably worse.
 






Welcome to the forum. The hubs are always engaged, they do not ever become unengaged. They are full time constant hubs, all Explorer 4WD/AWD trucks are that way from 1995 on. What you have read will have been about the transfer case engaging the front driveshaft, nothing involving the hubs.

The rotors for all 95+ Explorer 4WD/AWD trucks are called "hats", they slip onto the hubs. The hubs have the studs and bearings all in one unit, sealed with the ABS sensors.

What is your symptom if your question suggests one?
 






Replaced mine this morning. Tokk about 2 hrs. Solved my low speed abs pulsing!!!

Thanks for a great write up!!
 






yet another tutorial

http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=3

Their warning:
Torque Specs:

Axle Nut 157-212 Ft Lbs. Ideal: 170

Hub to Knuckle Bolts 70-96 Ft Lbs.
REMEMBER: DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE AXLE NUT. DO NOT TIGHTEN WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH/GUN!!!!!!!! OVER OR UNDER TORQUING IS THE LEADING CAUSE OF PREMATURE BEARING FAILURE!!!!!!
 






Thanks for the much needed education CDW6212R. I have closely checked my tyres since my first post and I think they may be the cause of the rumble. It is only heard at low speed 20-30 Klm/hr and I have uneven tyre wear. Inside of right front is just visibly noticable, other side looks ok but may start to show soon I guess if toe out is the problem. The rumble is similar to that experienced on another car I owned some time ago that would take the front left tyre out of round after 20000 Klms. This was eventualy fixed by high pressure clean of brake/hub erea after brake pulsing became noticable. My guess is that brake dust containing rotor metal upset the ABS. Wife is very good at making brake dust. I will swap front to back and have an alignment done and report the result here. Thanks again
 






98 Sport hub/bearing change

Just completed the hub/ bearing assembly change on both sides of my Sport. This was an excellent write-up with pics and all went smoothly. Timkens were on the truck but I ordered mine from Autopartsdirecttoyou.com. Spoke to the guy there before ordering them at 89 bucks each. Lifetime warranty..no tax or shipping charges. Came with the new ABS clips right on the wire so just discarded the old ones. I only put about 7000 miles a year on my Explorer so I guess I'm not really taking a chance on these cheaper units but the guy said they're National Bearing and guaranteed. When I went down the highway, I couldn't believe how quiet my front was. I think it was only the driver's side that was bad but I did both anyway. Thanks to this forum and especially the great "How To" from that self proclaimed "Anti Seize *****", I saved big bucks by not going to the stealership.
 






I'm being quoted $561 to r/r my front left wheel bearing/hub assembly from a reputable local service shop. When I called the Ford dealer to inquire their pricing, the tech told the service writer (I could hear him talking in the background) that doing ONE side only is a bad idea because it can cause problems with the ABS and that I should do BOTH sides at the same time. 1999 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer AWD, about 100k miles. Any thoughts/comments on this?

Thanks!
 






The part is about $200, and it takes a couple of hours to do, if your mechanically inclined at all you could do it. Replacing one side is fine, people do it all the time. Just know that the other side is probably worn to, and you'll probably be replacing it in the next year or so.
 






I did just one side of mine at first and the ABS was fine. You shouldn't have any issues either.

I did the other side soon after, just so I wouldn't have to worry about it.
 






it all depends on what caused the issue and/or what the issue is.

if it's just due to normal wear and tear, doing one side is fine.

the ABS sensors are the same, so there will be NO issues with the ABS, unless there is already an issue with the ABS that is due to the opposite side.

As for the price, that sounds about right.

Depending on where you get the part, it can cost aynwhere from $200-$300. Then the labor, by the book, I'm sure calls for about 2 hrs.

but as been stated, it is a very easy job. The hardest part can be removing the bearing assy from the knuckle.

When I first did mine, I had no issues. And it had been (at the time) an Alaskan truck for about 3 years.
 












I'm being quoted $561 to r/r my front left wheel bearing/hub assembly from a reputable local service shop. When I called the Ford dealer to inquire their pricing, the tech told the service writer (I could hear him talking in the background) that doing ONE side only is a bad idea because it can cause problems with the ABS and that I should do BOTH sides at the same time. 1999 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer AWD, about 100k miles. Any thoughts/comments on this?

Thanks!

like said, unless there is an issue already with ABS you can replace them one at a time. Although, the theory is if one is gone and you have high miles the other one is probably going to follow soon.....
 
























ok i posted this elsewhere so sorry fir the double post ..... i replaced brakes,tires,and today replaced both front hubs but i still have the roaring/grinding noise ....... universal joint ???? sounds like its right under you maybe straight down under the fire wall im thinking universal on the front drive shaft?????? any suggestions....99 AWD
 



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About 75% or more of the time, that symptom ends up being the CV joint of the front driveshaft. Often the boot will not be torn, but the grinding is just like a bad bearing. If you remove the shaft then you will narrow it down to the shaft, transfer case, or front diff. No one has had the front diff. fail yet, and the TC is somewhat rare to go out. Bet on it being the front shaft, shop around for an aftermarket unit. Regards,
 






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