How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures) | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How To: Upper Control Arm / Ball Joint Replacement (Lots of Pictures)

Any competent alignment shop should be able to work with the one piece right UCA. I've installed two sets of them.

How do they do the adjustment where there is no adjustment on the UCA?
 



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That two piece arm was just to provide extra caster adjustment, just like "camber plates" that everybody puts on Mustangs. It isn't needed for normal specs. If you had a bent frame or something that pushed the UCA front or back a lot(which would necessitate frame work), then the caster might be out of spec.

Unless there is something wrong with the truck, or Ford had really bad production tolerances, the two piece arm is not needed. If the alignment guy cannot get it right, then these two reasons are the only excuse.
 






trouble

Tried to replace mine and couldn't get the back camber bolt out to release the arm. Got blocked by the frame and some of the lines that are clamped to it. Any tips?
 






It's a tight fit but they do come out. I can't remember which line that runs in the way of the bolt, but there are a few spots where the wire is connected to the frame I popped out 2 of the connectors that holds the wire to the frame and that gave me enough room to get the bolt out.


Tried to replace mine and couldn't get the back camber bolt out to release the arm. Got blocked by the frame and some of the lines that are clamped to it. Any tips?
 






Looks like I'll be replacing mine this weekend, My UCA's came in today along with my shocks, lower ball joins, plugs, and DPFE sensor. Tomorrow my rear shocks and the caster/camber kits are supposed to be delivered.

Got the raybestos professional grade ball joints and control arms.
 






Currently replacing on a '97 AWD 5.0L Explorer LH Upper Control arm with a Moog K8708T UCA. I have the UCA off vehicle. If my current bolt with oblong castors look like the ones in your picture, I need not replace ?

 












I didn't note camber adjusters position when I took DS UCA off. Any suggestion on a temp fix when installing new UCA to enable a ride to alignment shop ?
 






Usually it's best to push them in, but each truck is different. If you have far to drive it, you might have to put the wheel on just to see how much camber is in it. Try to have it standing straight up.
 






Thanks. About 4 miles, but will try to have wheels standing straight up.
 






Thinks of ordering:

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021021B Service Grade
Front ; Left Upper; Complete Arm With Ball Joint

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021022B Service Grade
Front ; Right Upper; Complete Arm With Ball Joint

RAYBESTOS Part # 6161011 Professional Grade; Camber/Caster Adjust Kit
Front ; 0 Degree To Plus Or Minus 2-1/4 Degree; Contains Cams And Bolt

Does anyone know if these UCA have replaceable BJ ?
 






Off topic, but the tarp paper like substance that covers the UCA and engine in the front wheel wells of my '97 AWD 5.0L X needs replacement. Any advice ? I did a search, but didn't find anything.

It might be called "dust/mud shield for engine"
 






Off topic, but the tarp paper like substance that covers the UCA and engine in the front wheel wells of my '97 AWD 5.0L X needs replacement. Any advice ? I did a search, but didn't find anything.

It might be called "dust/mud shield for engine"

Get them from Ford. I bought four of them for my trucks, they are worth the $15-$20 I recall them being.
 

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That's good. I've dealt with TascaFord.com for a long time, they are the biggest dealer by volume, and great at finding some old parts.
 






Kriegen; How did your Raybestos UCA's work out ? I plan to order from RockAuto.com the following:

RAYBESTOS Part # 6161011 Professional Grade; Camber/Caster Adjust Kit
Front ; 0 Degree To Plus Or Minus 2-1/4 Degree; Contains Cams And Bolt
2 x $19.94 = $39.88

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021022 Professional Grade
Front ; Right Upper; Complete Arm With Ball Joint
1 x $93.79 = $93.79

RAYBESTOS Part # 5021021 Professional Grade
Front ; Left Upper; Complete Arm With Ball Joint
1 x $95.79 = $95.79

I assume I need Alignment Kit for both sides, as I have the OE 2-piece RH UCA and the 1-piece OE LH UCA with oblong camber washer without the square whole to make adjustments.

Had thought of using Moog, but after discussions in the LCA sticky thread, decided on Raybestos.
 






Tried to replace mine and couldn't get the back camber bolt out to release the arm. Got blocked by the frame and some of the lines that are clamped to it. Any tips?

Man I am having problems with this too! I've been screwing around with that one bolt for over two hours. My hands are all beat to hell. I don't think I'm going to get that bolt out.
 






Push the arm as far as you can toward the engine. Wiggle and twist that bolt out. Some have had to take the plastic clips off that hold the brake lines. There is also, I believe the a/c line in the way. You may have to unbolt it behind the arm holding bracket to give you more room.
 






Ok, thanks for the tips! I'm going back out to give it another try.
 



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Did this last night. Took me and buddy a few hours to finally realize that the Camber bolts don't actually sit flush against the frame. After that all went well.
any one know what the bold does on the passenger side that sticks out on the front side of the arm?
Coudln't get it to move at all but the ball joint part slides into it.
 






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