Jefe's 700R4 swap

I got tired of the computer deciding when my 5R55E transmission should shift, since it hadn't a clue with all the mods I've done so I decided It was time for a change. The two choices were a manual, or a 700R4 for a lower crawl ratio. I love having an auto in LA traffic (and Its grown on me wheeling) so I figured I'd be the first to put a 700R4 in a 2nd gen.

All my pics are here, and I'll link the important ones to the thread.

I grabbed the two Advance Adapters parts (4.0 to 700R4, 700R4 to t-case) back in Feb for a great deal, and waited for some more cash to come around to buy the 700R4. I got the 700R4 (Level II) from Bowtie Overdrives, along with their TV system, 1800 rpm stall torque converter, dip stick, and install kit.

The trans arrives:

A few weeks before I put the trans in i decided to install the TV linkage. Somewhere between '91-'94 and 2000 the throttle body linkage changed size, so I got to modify it to fit Bowtie's TV setup. I figured since was modifying anyway I mine as well upgrade and so I threw in a BBK TB.

You can see where i ground the linkage down:

On another weekend I hacked up my center console and installed the B&M Hammer shifter. It sat a little low sitting on the floor, so I welded up a sub-frame for it out of 1" sq. tube. I plan to glass the cover in with the center console so it looks factory. (anyone want to show me how to glass?)

Part way installed:

The next step was to throw in the transmission in a weekend and hope everything else went smoothly since this is still my daily driver.

Friday night (5 hrs):
The first job was to get the control arms from the SFA out of the way, along with its bracketry:

Next, getting ready to take the t-case and transmission out:

Saturday (15 hrs):
With help, and a very tall floor jack (or a bunch of bricks ) remove t-case and transmission. Compare transmisions (AA tailshaft housing was installed previously, and the 700R4 was built with the AA output shaft):

Bolt AA adapter to engine:

Bolt adapter to torque converter and install:
I had to grind down the three bolts in order to get them flush w/ the adapter. Not sure if AA dropped the ball or what.

Bolt up trans:

Bolt up t-case:

Connect TV linkage:

Reroute cooler lines. I used rubber for now. I plan to replace with either braided stainless or hard lines. I had ordered the Bowtie overdrives lines, but they aren't long enough to reach the drivers side tank of the stock radiator, nor are they the right fittings for the radiator.

Sunday (10 hrs):
Wire up shifter. I brought the wires that went to the shift position switch on the 5R through the same hole as the shift cable. By rewraping the wire harness correctly, i didn't have to extend any wires, which was nice.
Wire up torque converter harness. I got bowties harness w/ manual lockup switch, and replaced my shifter handle with one that has a switch. so now I can lock the converter up when i'm climbing in 3rd gear. It works great.

Connect shifter, fill trans and start engine w/o exhaust Y-pipe to get neighbors attention

Modify exhaust. I had to crush the pre-cat on the passenger side in order to get the Y-pipe to fit. The O2 sensor on that side is fine. The O2 sensor on the other side clears the adapter plate by a 1/32", so others may need to grind the adapter to get it to fit. I figured I'd then drive it to an exhaust shop and have them remake my Y-pipe to fit better. However I found out that for such a new vehicle the O2 sensors and pre-cats have to be exact stock distances down the pipe to follow guidlines so no one wanted to help me there. I even talked with the local guy for a good 30 mins coming up with crazy ideas to get it to work, like remoting the oil filter and taking the exhaust around the outside of the frame rail. I ended up just using the tube that AA suplies to extend the Y-pipe so that the cats would bolt up sqaure and clear the trans. I may get to have fun when I need to smog this thing

exhaust pics:

I know I've left out many details, so if anyone has any questions, ask away.

 

[turbowsr]

I looked up the part numbers. 82'-84' uses a 27 spline small bore pump. 84'-86' Uses a 30 spline large bore. 87'-up uses 30 spline large bore w/Aux valve feed tube (for 87'-up trannies with auxiliary valve bodies). 87'-up are the trannies needed, newer=better. I have an 85' because my builder is no good. No GOOD rebuilder will use a core older than 87'.
Looking up the input drum, the 27 spline V6 is 53mm shorter. Otherwise the input drum matches the same year pump.
An early 27 spline V8 is the same length as the later 30 spline, but the pumps differ.
So this limits the 3-4 clutch pack size, which limits the amount of stress that used in overdrive. No towing, or using OD while racing.
OR a machine shop could press in a 27 spline into a V8 drum.

 

[Denis Clark]

rusty cdn.

Just read your swap to a 700(new member!). I like the 700r4 idea but wondered about the speedo cable.Is the hook-up the same as the ford.

 

[Jefe]

Just read your swap to a 700(new member!). I like the 700r4 idea but wondered about the speedo cable.Is the hook-up the same as the ford.

For a pre '98 4wd the speedo is in the transfercase which doesn't change. If you have a 2wd you'd have to figure out how to adapt the chevy speedo pickup to the ford.

 

[Denis Clark]

95,4.0,2wd,4 dooor.What I have is a wore out,tired and average suv.I've taken it off the road for now. I have serious thoughts about installing a new V-8 and trans.(carb.) with. 5-6 inches of lift.The motor can be anything as I rebuild marine motors for a living so selecting and playing with the engine is easy and cheap for me.Why I asked about the 700 was because we do have a ton of chev. engine parts in stock as well have 2 complete 302(used) motors out back.I pull boats up boat ramps alot and would like a good low gear but want to use it for a daily driver.Has to be automatic because of my bad knee.

 

[Milkman]

I got a question

I put in a new stereo and now my 4x4 push button doesn't work. How can I fix that. I didn't use an adaptor either.

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

I put in a new stereo and now my 4x4 push button doesn't work. How can I fix that. I didn't use an adaptor either.

That doesnt have anything to do with this thread...this thread is about swapping in a 700r4 tranny not your 4x4 try searching...BTW welcome to the site

 

[joe383]

I can’t afford to replace a 700R4 if I broke it but I have a few turbo 350s any one know were to get an adaptor for one to a 4.0 I know that the V8 Chevy bell housing is suppose to be to big and I will have to modify the heck out of my fire wall and transmission tunnel but I am using this truck for a daily driver as well as in the mud drags and plan on using NOS and the A4LD will grenade for sure.

 

[RockRanger]

I can’t afford to replace a 700R4 if I broke it but I have a few turbo 350s any one know were to get an adaptor for one to a 4.0 I.

Your own garage. No one makes that adapter

 

[zhanx]

Your own garage. No one makes that adapter

i can say wrong on that.. i'll search my history but i found a guy that makes adapter to bolt anything to the 4.0

 

[zhanx]

http://www.rrorc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27379 <- cant find his home page in my history tho

never m ind found it. drunk to much beer

http://www.4-x-fab.com/Transmission_adapters.php

 

[RockRanger]

i can say wrong on that.. i'll search my history but i found a guy that makes adapter to bolt anything to the 4.0

I want to see this. post the link. Are you talking about the guy on RRORC that is making the adapter to bolt a ford V8 tranny to the 4.0?

 

[Ronin8002]

Been planning an offroad buildup for my truck and one of the things I might change about my 700r4 is putting in a reverse pattern manual valvebody with full engine braking. Art Carr and TCI both have kits for this. It eliminates the TV cable setup and it keeps the line pressure high so you can hold it in any gear. It also is setup to lock the TC in 4th automatically, or you can turn off the lockup entirely, OR you can lock it in 2, 3 or 4 .Only downside (if you even consider it a downside) is you have to get a ratcheting shifter and shift it manually all the time....though a ratcheting shifter is a lot easier than using a normal auto shifter of any kind....just push it up or down and it bangs right into the next gear.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I thought about going this way as well, but in my research I found that running the tranny at max line pressure all the time actually decreases the tranny life expectancy by 50%. Another option is to use a regular valve with a gate shifter that has the correct teeth filed down so it can easily be thrown into reverse or neutral when needed. I am currently running the B&M megashifter(ratcheting shifter) with a normal valve body and am actually really happy with it.

 

[Jefe]

I actually have the TCI reverse manual valve body sitting in the garage. I just haven't gotten around to installing it.

 

[Ronin8002]

DWD, is that info on manual valvebodies/tranny life online? I've looked all over but didn't see anything like that?

Jefe, I'd be interested in hearing your comments, install writeup, etc, when you get it in there.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I don't know if it is online, but I got the info from the owner of the company that built my tranny, http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com . If you are building a trailer queen like I have, it shouldn't be too much of a problem, but if it's a daily driver it will lead to tranny failure sooner than if it were a standard valve body. When I had mine built, it was a daily driver, but I am reconsidering to switching to a manual valve body now.

 

[Jefe]

Update

The TCI reverse manual valve body is in. I just have to fill the transmission and bolt the y-pipe back in. I will post an update once its gone for a test drive.

 

[Jefe]

Test drive was successful.

I can see how this will wear out the transmission faster. Due to the line pressure always being high, it shifts very hard and fast. Under full acceleration its perfect, but part throttle shifts will give you whiplash. I only drove around the block, but it looks like if you rev match in the shifts, like you would a manual trans, it will be less back breaking. Engine braking in all gears is very nice. However since this thing doesn't have a brain anymore, you can do some serious damage if you miss-shift. You can also lock the torque converter in first which is interesting.

I'll be driving it around next week to get used to it and put some test miles on it before hitting the dirt.

 

[Ronin8002]

Awesome....I am looking forward to hearing more about the drivability once you've gotten used to it. I'm pretty excited about doing this also because of the flexibility it gives you with shifting, engine braking and locking the torque converter. Are you using a ratchet shifter with it now or are you still using the hammer shifter?

 

[Jefe]

So I drove it around all last week. The only real issue I have is that without the TV input anymore, the torque convert lockup happens as soon as it shifts to 4th and remains locked. That coupled with the fairly high stall TC makes a huge jump in RPMs. TCI recommends that the converter be powered via an engine vacuum switch so that under hard acceleration it would unlock, and on WOT 3-4 shifts, but that wouldn't change the fact that it instantly locks up any other time. Other than that I'm very happy. I love engine braking in 3rd and 2nd as I come to a light, saves on the brakes. And it should be awesom offroad.

Are you using a ratchet shifter with it now or are you still using the hammer shifter?

The B&M Hammer shifter is a ratchet shifter. Without a gate or ratchet shifter, this setup could be dangerous, as a wrong shift could be very bad.