My exhaust is falling apart

[Anime]

I say from the pics, while the rust IS a problem, you can use your angle grinder (and a hacksaw, one of those keyhole/blade holder type mini hacksaws works FANTASTIC for cutting into the rocker to get rust off where a big hacksaw can't go) to grind away the problem area, just use a wire brush on a drill (or a stiff round wire brush on the angle grinder for external rust, that really gets it down to bare metal, but don't use it on anything else, it will catch and kick back bad). Once it's all cut out, use some sheet metal (16-18 ga. steel from Lowe's / Home Depot is fine) to form the replacement panel, and JB Weld on. Once it cures, I'd prep with acetone/alcohol, then hit it with a can of the Rust Control Spray Enamel (and I would also suggest spraying INSIDE the rocker with it too, especially the back wall inside where the rust is bad, but hopefully you can brush it down to metal or at least get the scale off. There are also plastic caps on the inside of the rocker, facing the undercarriage so you can actually spray the paint inside the repaired part the rocker once it's sealed so it doesn't rust from the inside out) and then some spray-on bedliner as the finishing touch.

I might also mention you should try to seal up the rest of the rocker holes from the plastic side skirt mounts, preferably with JB Weld as well, maybe using some tiny pieces of scrap metal to give the JB Weld something to bond to in the hole. This along with the spray liner on the entire rocker should seal it up and prevent further rusting.

Save the rubberized undercoating for the fenderwells. It's too soft for exterior use on the rockers, and on warm days it'll be sticky and gooey and it'll be gross when your leg touches it or it scrapes off on something. This isn't a perfect fix, but it will seal up the hole and if you do a careful enough job, will last as long as the JB Weld holds.


As for the exhaust, maybe can the Dynomax unless you want to invest in it for that $220. Maybe ask the muffer guy how much to cut the stock pipe and clamp in a cheap muffler. If it's still a lot, those Thrush Turbos at Advance Auto parts are cheeeeeeeap after the 40% online coupons:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...uffler-Thrush_5291461-P_N3333C_P|GRP2023P____

Part # 17713, in stock at most Advance Store for local pickup.
$27.99 - 40% off = $16.80

$16.80 for a new performance muffler. And it'll be louder than the Dynomax since it's shorter. But you'd need a new pipe. For that I'd suggest the Walker Intermediate pipe:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/543156-intermediate-pipe-by-walker-part-43470.html

Part #43470, $14.99 (strangely less expensive than the shorter 2 door pipe)

Of course, if your pipe between the cat and muffler is in good shape and already 12-15 inches long, the Walker pipe might not add much length. You could always buy a standard length of pipe at the store and clamp it, or just have the exhaust shop weld in the Thrush muffler for you, though some shops charge a ton just for one or two welds. Having them cut a pipe and clamp it for you might be way cheaper. Just don't forget to somehow have the hanger still attached to the new pipe/muffler.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I think we will do what you suggested. How difficult is it to form the sheet metal to make it match fairly close? How well does the spray paint/rust converter stuff work on bad rust? I'm not sure how well I can get something inside the fender where its closed up.

I'm just going to hit the junkyard for a muffler and do it that way for now. Long as I can reuse the clamps I guess. Will need to find new gaskets.

 

[J_C]

You have the two primary tools, but your husband is an obstacle.

The metal grinder will get rid of the panels, you have an internet connection to order new panels and source a welder on craigslist who you can talk to about how much to cut away before a scheduled repair (so it doesn't sit in limbo while you wait), and your sander can plane smooth some bondo to make it smooth before painting...

We don't know your situation, but even if it costs $1000 total it could be a lower expense than buying another EX and still having the same repair looming in the future. I'm not suggesting you "should" or not, since I don't know the vehicle history and what you are capable of doing to fix other repairs that come along as it ages, as that greatly effects the cost:benefit ratio for maintaining it. For example, if a brake line fails some people can just buy some line and string it but others end up paying hundreds to have someone else do it. Those costs add up.

 

[J_C]

I think we will do what you suggested. How difficult is it to form the sheet metal to make it match fairly close? How well does the spray paint/rust converter stuff work on bad rust? I'm not sure how well I can get something inside the fender where its closed up.

I'm just going to hit the junkyard for a muffler and do it that way for now. Long as I can reuse the clamps I guess. Will need to find new gaskets.

If you have never beaten or used a brake for metal there is a learning curve, unless you are ok with the basic weld a square rail on idea, which depends on how much you want it to look stock.

The spray converter stuff works fine to keep rust in check for awhile, it doesn't make what you have stronger, it just coats the rust so it doesn't wick in water to accelerate damage anymore. You have to get rid of loose scaly rust to get the best benefit. Where it is closed up you need a wand and to drill a hole for access to get the best benefit, BUT at the same time if you can use a metal brake to make a basic box you can sacrifice the box and just protect the rocker panel and add a box you made yourself later... or pay someone to make the box, again it is a matter of finding someone to do whatever you don't want to.

Clamps are cheap, or if you pay someone to weld the rocker panels it shouldn't cost much more to have them weld a muffler on while they are at it. Mufflers aren't very expensive either though, if you aren't picky about what you get. If you hit a junkyard for a muffler I would pick a newer truck as a donor, not something that age which will have substantial muffler rust even if it only sat there aging outdoors most of its life.

 

[Anime]

I have never had much luck with rust converter. It works for a few days/weeks to hold back the rust, but it bubbles back and I've always felt it was a waste of money.

I have had great success with the cheap, $2.99 a can ColorPlace Rust Control Spray Enamel spray paint at Wal-Mart. If you spray the stuff on clean, prepared (with mineral spirits/acetone/alcohol) metal, and do enough layers, it DOES prevent rust, even on a rusty surface that's been wire brushed down to metal again.

The only thing that's possibly better is Rust-Oleum's red oxide color heavy rust primer with their paint on top of it, or the regular primer for not-as-rusty surfaces.

With the rubber inserts off, you should be able to spray paint inside the rocker once it's welded up. Use a flashlight to see inside to check if you sprayed all the fresh metal areas. A mess of paint in there is fine, it's better than bare metal rusting the panel all over again and ruining the work in a few years.


Junkyard for a muffler? Over a brand new one for $16? Seriously?

The muffler install is here if you want to see how simple it is to throw one on a stock pipe:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182514

And that's not even as simple as it could be. You can even have the rear muffler hanger welded onto a clamp to make it even easier to install/remove later and avoid the expense of having anything else welded.

Not to mention how much of a PITA it's going to be to find a decent system at a junkyard, to say nothing of installing it even if you somehow manage to find one. I suppose you might luck out and find a 91-92 with a catback or a new Midas system, though...

 

[huntman58]

one other cheap and easy way to fix them is to cut them off fully then weld in a say 2" x4" steel box what ever thickness you want ( think sliders here) Think of no rocker from the inside roof of them down . Weld in the bar stock and if you want then bondo it into the body and smooth it out then do the bed liner paint thing brush or spray. You will have added strength, removed the rusted rocker for the most part and even added a bit of clearance to the side of the rig. Or you can go with any of the many suggestions here so far including the expanding foam one I told you about as a stop gap tell you decide to fix it with new rocker metal or sell it. In the long run even with a new motor and or tranny heck even both its still cheaper then a newer auto most of the time and no monthly payments or the higher insurance cost. Just thinking out load here.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Now I have so many different suggestions lol. My husband says just fix what we can, then put the plastic skirts back on and call it good. He says the rig isn't worth the cost of doing the rockers the right way. Although I did tell him I was wanting to eventually make a trail rig outta it, he said that would be cool, but that the drivetrain wouldn't be able to handle it.
ANYWAYS, I will go with that brand new muffler for $16 lol. I didn't read that part I guess. If I can just get it clamped on where the clamps are on the stock one right now, it shouldn't be too hard right?

Our situation is this: I sold my baby: my 03 mach 1 for 13,500. We paid of a 9k credit card, and some other small stuff, but now that that is gone, we are back to our regular paychecks, and they aren't very much. We are strapped cuz my job only works me 4 days a week, making only 16 an hr as a practical nurse. my husband is a cna, working for about 14 an hr. We have several credit bills left to pay off, including a tire shop bill, a veterinary credit card, my outpatient physical therapy for my foot surgery. All of these things have made it damn impossible for us to get better rigs, or to fix them up the real ways we want to. My husbands truck is a 92 f150 with almost 200k on the motor. My x has probably well over 205-210k miles. If something major were to happen to one of our rigs, we're screwed. We live paycheck to paycheck. I have not been able to find a second job to help pay some of our other stuff off, due to the fact that one of the local colleges here turns out practical nurses every 4 months.....i look everyday for a second job. my husband is stubborn about working extra....he knows he should, but he doesn't.

 

[tjsxplodr]

I bought Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer from Autozone. Should I pick something else to convert the rust to a protected paintable surface or not?

 

[tjsxplodr]

If you have never beaten or used a brake for metal there is a learning curve, unless you are ok with the basic weld a square rail on idea, which depends on how much you want it to look stock.

The spray converter stuff works fine to keep rust in check for awhile, it doesn't make what you have stronger, it just coats the rust so it doesn't wick in water to accelerate damage anymore. You have to get rid of loose scaly rust to get the best benefit. Where it is closed up you need a wand and to drill a hole for access to get the best benefit, BUT at the same time if you can use a metal brake to make a basic box you can sacrifice the box and just protect the rocker panel and add a box you made yourself later... or pay someone to make the box, again it is a matter of finding someone to do whatever you don't want to.

Clamps are cheap, or if you pay someone to weld the rocker panels it shouldn't cost much more to have them weld a muffler on while they are at it. Mufflers aren't very expensive either though, if you aren't picky about what you get. If you hit a junkyard for a muffler I would pick a newer truck as a donor, not something that age which will have substantial muffler rust even if it only sat there aging outdoors most of its life.

I don't even know what a metal brake is lol. Anime found me a site where I can find some decent mufflers. I could go to the junkyard as a temporary thing, but what's the point of getting another rusted one, there isn't probably any good mufflers left on the 1st gens I've seen at my local junkyard.

 

[Iron Weasel]

Metal brake:

 

[tjsxplodr]

So this tool will shape sheet metal to any form you want it to? If I buy just the sheet metal, and want the steel box look for making it into a trail rig and having better clearance, this tool will make a steel box? Or do I buy a steel box?

I'm seriously considering just cutting the entire panels off, then getting them ready for replacement panels that will come later in a few months. How long should I seriously consider leaving the rockers off until I get the steel boxes ready to put on?

 

[Iron Weasel]

Metal brakes generally run several hundred dollars for one of a decent size. Harbor Freight has a 36" metal brake on sale for $219.99.

If you're going for the "trail rig" look, buy some 3/4" - 1-1/4" steel square tubing and weld some brackets on it that will bolt to the frame, it would be a lot cheaper and stronger than just sheet metal.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah, I want the trail rig look, with better clearance than the stock rocker panels. Where on earth do I buy square steel boxes like that? Where should I have the brackets welded?

 

[Iron Weasel]

You can buy square tube at any local supply house, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.

Home Depot

Lowes

Where to weld a bracket?
Well.....anywhere that you could attach to an existing bolt hole or you could even weld it straight to the frame. If you go this route, you're talking fabricating versus repairing. Fabricating stuff is more involved than just unbolting a part, replacing it, and bolting it back up. Even cutting out the rust and welding on new sheet metal is going to be somewhat involved and requires access to a welder and someone who knows how to use it correctly.

Head over to the fabrication forum and check out some of the slider threads...that's close to what you're talking about.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Oh wow, cool thanks for the links. Yeah it does sound more involved than just replacing the panels themselves. Good grief, I have no idea now what I should do.

 

[Iron Weasel]

Were it me....I'd order new rockers, cut the old junk out and then tack weld the new stuff in place.

LMC Truck has replacement rockers fairly cheap.

 

[J_C]

It's starting to seem like you need to find someone within driving distance who has done the rock slider mod and can weld who would assist you, although if your husband is right that the drivetrain is not up to offroading I don't see the point of gaining the clearance unless you're fully committed to the offroading enough to pay what it takes in time and money to get the rest up to snuff for that.

Since it is necessarily a daily driver you're probably going to have a lot of time between start and finish of the project unless you can take time off work and camp out where someone will help do that mod all at once... plus paint /drying time.

Unless you have the paid vacation time coming anyway it might be a wash which costs more just for the rocker panels/dog legs, I still think you can do most of the work yourself with a grinder cutting it after finding a welder to talk it through with about what you're cutting (whole rocker panel and dog legs or leaving good metal on the truck in those areas (if there is any) and cutting back the replacement piece), get it welded, and put the filler and paint on yourself.

I mentioned dog legs a couple times above. The rock slider mod doesn't fix the dog legs which may need replaced too... probably should be if they are at all questionable while you are doing the rest.

 

[Anime]

Seems like a lot of suggestions are just being made in general without the consideration of budget constraints. Metal brakes, full replacement rockers? Come on.


Rockers AREN'T some huge issue. You can do absolutely nothing and leave the holes as-is and the only bad thing that might come of it is getting snow and rain kicked into them when driving. Really, you can cut off the rust and JB-weld/bondo metal or whatever to the holes to close them and that's it.

Putting the plastic skirts back on might look nice, and is an option, but the rust will just come back that much sooner with the rain and snow and salt getting back into them. If you're going to the trouble to fix them, it's not much more to seal the little holes and leave the skirt off...plus the skirt removed makes it look a little higher.


The stock muffler doesn't use clamps. It's also longer than the $16 Thrush muffler, so that's why you need an extension pipe to fit it on if using the stock pipes but cutting off the stock muffler. If you have a muffler on there that has clamps, it's likely an aftermarket job. If it does, great, undo the clamps and put in the new one, if it's that easy. Still might need that longer extention pipe, though.


If money is that tight, fix the rockers and exhaust on the CHEAP, and worry about other things. When your financials are in order, worry about big time upgrades.

As you mention, any major vehicle issues would be a problem, so you're better off not having spent money on things you didn't need.

 

[J_C]

^ A metal brake is something you can find at a lot of shops, I wasn't suggesting to buy a large expensive one if she doesn't already own or have access to one, or know someone who does.

Riveting the piece on would be a good backup measure after the body filler if it is not welded, but there are options. This guy for example seems located not too far away and might have the metal, brake, and be able to weld a small patch panel on for cheap (just an example, I merely searched Craigslist Boise for welding and these were among the first hits). Second one quotes $25/hr plus materials... $10 more for a piece of metal if you don't bring your own?

He probably has scrap that would be big enough. If he can't cut, bend and weld that (only the hole and flaky outer rust area around it) in an hour he probably shouldn't be allowed to do it at all, assuming the prep work on the area is completed before being taken to him.

http://boise.craigslist.org/sks/2029117317.html

http://boise.craigslist.org/sks/2024444432.html

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah, money IS tight. Is why I was asking for suggestions lol. I've got Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer, Naval Jelly, a wire brush, sandpaper, a circular grinder. I've already cut away what I could on the big holes. My husband wants me to put the skirts back on, I don't see why I should either, being's how that's what caused this mess in the first place. He said it will hide the mess I made. WELLLL, it WASN'T me that started this mess to begin with lol. He says those holes are a mess....YES, I know that! If I can get the rust stopped in the holes, I'd be happy. As for the front of the rockers where I can't reach very good, I bought a wire brush that I was going to make an attempt to use the naval jelly on with the wire brush and make an attempt to at least halt the bad rust. I don't know how well that's going to work.

I have a guy who's willing to sheet metal the holes for me, but why bother with that if the rust isn't going to be stopped up front all the way, it will just continue to deteriorate.

I think I'm just going to clean the holes up with the naval jelly, sand them down, paint them get some bedliner spray stuff to protect them, attempt to clean the inside of the rest of the rockers towards the front and be done with it. I just don't have the cash flow or tools at home to put it together the right way.

I've realized the trail rig idea was a nice one, but that's way in the future, that's IF I can keep my rig going that long lol. With over 205k miles at the very LEAST, I'm looking at a major repair in the engine/tranny/clutch here pretty soon I'd imagine, and so the rust issue is very minimal.

Thanks for all the suggestions on the rust.

As for the exhaust, I will just do a diy job, like the one the gentleman did in one of the links that was put in this thread. Get some extension pieces, some more clamps and call it good, get the Thrush muffler and be done. Yeah, there appears to be those metal clamps on each side of the muffler.