My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie?

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Look!
Its a knock sensor!!!!

View attachment 96764

HEY! MORE INFO!!!!!!!!

 

[Dono]

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html

Expensive, but if it saves another head gasket or another hydro lock its worth every penny.

 

[4pointslow]

I have optima red tops, they are a little cheaper if I remember correctly.
I did have one yellow top years ago, never had any trouble with it.
That earls gasket looks like it doesn't quite match up.

 

[Dono]

Your right on the gasket.
Holding it up against the reflex, the inside diameter is almost exactly the same.
So, although the 'squishy' part is a different shape on the outside edge, it gets the same sealing surface as the reflex gasket.

I sure hope it holds.

On the yellowtop, it was only a couple dollars more (no idea why) and the cca was the same (or almost if my memory is still ok).
The deep cycle part might keep me from running thru batterys the agm part stop corrosion. its all experimenting and learning.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool parts, and I like the Earl's gaskets, hope they last.

The knock sensor is nice, do you have the Viper or whatever the name was for the special device to make use of the knock sensor? I'll need that also for my truck. I have an oil bulkhead connector in my 347 there in that little depression of the block. I was aiming it at a turbo, the oil source, but I'll use it to run a pre-oiler this time.

How was the block there to drill and tap into the cast iron? That's hard to do.

 

[Dono]

The threaded hole was already there.
The block is from an F-150 and they had knock sensors from the factory.
And, yes, I have the J&S safeguard Viper unit.
I've come to the conclusion that one hint of detonation can lift a head and then the gasket issues start.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ah, and thanks again for the link. I've seen another guy use it on his Saleen Mustang, with 1200hp using a 358, KB 2800 blower and intercooler, race car only of course. It's worth it if you have any decent boost.

 

[Dono]

Don, we are going to find out.
I'm thinking its worth it even with low/moderate boost.

For what ever reason, my builds always have detonation issues and seem to detonate where others with the same combo does not. I don't know why. Even this re-assembly I had the cam re-degree'd and it ended up exactly where it was last time.
At 8lbs boost, I was at 7 degree's timing(That's only 17 degree's total). Don Lasota says that's too low and creates way too much heat in the exhaust. So, this summer (If the motor doesn't break again) its on my list to add water/meth injection also. Hopefully this allows for more timing, and allows me to turn up the boost a bit more.

The limiting factor seems to be octane. A knock sensor will at least retard timing when bad things are happening. As long as my motor isn't noisy internally and the sensor can distinguish between normal engine noise and knocking.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i forgot you had got that vampire kit. hell, both you and i have added some much stuff to our trucks its amazing we even remember haft of the stuff. and for the timing, don said the same thing to me. i think we now know why i burned up 2 heater boxes last summer....

 

[Dono]

We need to be careful. Pump gas only goes so far.
At least your timing was still around 17 degrees (27 total). I think that's actually ok.

I'll need to get that water/meth kit installed before upping the boost this time. lol.

My weekend is full. Concert Friday night, bartending Saturday night. We will have to see how it goes. Saturday afternoon might be a good day to do some motor installing. The late nights are getting harder and harder on me.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

you know my number. i am probably just as antsy as you are to get your truck up and running.

 

[Dono]

I took the afternoon off today to fire my motor.

As I'm pouring coolant in, I hear dripping on the ground.
I look around.
Not me missing the rad fill spout or the funnel over flowing.
Not any tad hoses
Not the heater pipe or heater hoses
So, I climb underneath with a light ans see the passenger header soaked and dripping. FML

So, I spent my evening removing the motor.
Tim's coming over tomorrow and making me a cradle. I'm taking the whole motor back, fully assembled.

For the money spent so far, I'm sure I could be driving a 2014 explorer sport right now.

 

[4pointslow]

Did you happen to see just where the coolant was coming from?

 

[Dono]

No. With the header off you would be able to see it. Just plug the water pump holes and fill the block with water.
I'm still debating pulling the header off, but I think I'm going to just take the hole complete motor in.

Something is probably cracked, I do have a small concern that the area leaking is the exact area that I had to clearance for the header, I just can't see it being the issue though.

 

[Dono]

Well, I can clearly see where I clearanced the head its leaking.

I'm getting prepared for the worst.
Problem is, If the head casting gets replaced, the header needs to be modified.
Modify the header, and the egr tube needs modifying.

I just can't see what other options there are. I hope I get better news than I'm expecting from the machine shop.

Special props to Tim again. By the time I made it home from work, he had already welded up the engine stand. The complete motor is loaded up and in the back of the Honda CRV.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

with the head being alum, they should be able to weld it, and not have to replace it. i wounder if they can do any build up from the inside of the water jacket. that also isnt the same spot that i thought there was a imperfection was it? no biggie on the stand either. how many hours have you spent tuning my garbage? lol

 

[4pointslow]

Did you pressure test it to see exactly where the coolant was coming out?

 

[Dono]

Nope. I just dropped the motor off.
They are 99.9% sure that I was on the edge of blowing thru to a coolant passage, and it has broken thru.

They are going to add water and pressure test before pulling the head.
If this is the issue, they are pretty sure they can have it welded up.

 

[Dono]

Here's where we think the problem spot is. I never would have believed there would be a coolant passage there. It will be pressure tested
(or at least re-filled and examined closely) .before coming apart.

I'm sure that's the issue, It was dripping so badly that I can't see it being head gasket. Too bad the upper intake and head has to come off again.

I'm still struggling with my torque converter spacing only being 1/32" between TC and flex plate. I spoke with TCS about it, and they say its fine (even though spec is between 1/8" to 3/16" (or 4/32" to 6/32"). The fact that the thrust bearing was wiped out makes me extremely nervous. I have another call in to them. I think I need to push them to fix this.

 

[Dono]

Torque converter is boxed, and heading to get a hair cut tomorrow.
TCS will take off between 3 to 4/32" I'll be in spec. I wouldn't be able to sleep unless I did this.
Like Ford Strokers says, there is no reason for a thrust bearing to go out if the crank surface has been polished unless there's an oiling issue or something is pushing on it. Cover all bases, I say.