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Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

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Update... I settled on the Dana 70 1SU. And also slapped a few bucks on Joe's hand to cement the deal.
Joe said pick it up anytime I want to. He also said if I need any extra parts for it feel free to take what I need.
I mentioned how I'm going to change the front 44 to an 8 lug. He mentioned that if I can use the 8 lug hub off that IFS axle with the bumper attached just to the right of the D70 go ahead and use it. Hmmm

On a side note, wouldn't it be nice to use the other D70 U series or the Sterling for an axle on my upcoming Mil. model 416 adventrue trailer.
 
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pick it up with your crane!

Yes, I have all plans to. That is if it ever stops raining. No need to tear up Joe's back yard with that locked rear while getting in position for the lift.

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Now back to replacing that evil turn signal switch, horn switch and high beam switch.

Here is an extra tail light housing showing the clear part where the back-up lights used to be. My back-up lights now are Explorer fog lights mounted on the swing out tire carrier. So all I'm going to do now is to add a socket with an amber color bulb to match the front color turn sig. and that will be the new turn signal location. I think it would look cool with Amber turn and Red brake lights in the same housing.
Those tailight housing has escaped the wrath of modification for just too long. Now when another B2 pulls up behind me with the Amber turn signal blinking, he's bound to think, "There's just something different with that Bronco 2...Well I think it's a B2".
Then to figure out if I want both elements on or just one to come on? Of course the brake light remains red.

Eventually my idea is to replace the turn signal lever that controls all of the above with individual controls. Now the high beam I may just modify the lever mechanism with something that is not so long. Or might even go to a floor mounted foot switch. Or better yet...Rat Fink it :rolleyes: Like the keyless ignition. Big Daddy Roth must be LHAO
The more things change the more they stay the same.
 
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No need to tear up Joe's back yard with that locked rear while getting in position for the lift.

I know what you mean, someone was behind the wheel of a locked bII in my backyard today and decided to hit the gas really hard in 2wd and spin a donut. that 4.0 makes things move, probably not as good as ur 302 would though.
 






janderson4010 pick it up with your crane!

You mean like this.

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Just me, Samson and a cell phone.

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There's just nothing small about this thing.
The short piece of axle tube is from a D44 and it's 1/2" shorter in dia.
The HD 70 is another 1/2" larger then the U series that I got...No thanks.

It will get the usual cleaning ritual.
 






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Need to document this axle build. Just removed the 8 bolts that pass through the end of the axle into the FF hub exposing the spindle nut.
A full float in the rear is a little more comforting to me once it gets installed...No time soon though.
Talk about a long axle, the long side was a little over 40" with 35 spline X 1.500".

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After removing the spindle nut it was time for a little finesse, coupled with the right tool for the job and it's off.

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Spindle and bearing looking great. Can't say much for the rest of it.

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Could not get the backing plate over the inner bearing so off comes the bearing cage.

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Once I removed the 4 backing plate bolts and removed the plate, I found the pic I was looking for.

Then a whole lot of time coming up with the new axle length and disc brake conversion. The axle length has to allow for an 8 lug front mod also.
 






My bad?

Looks great Rick and I knew your crane would hold that "litte" 70, but now I'm feeling a little guilty about sending my stuff out to be built by the "Goths & Vandels" in Tejas. lol
 






Thanks. I think it'll look a whole lot better when i slice the axle tubes and remove a chunk of tubing after determining length.
I'm thinking of putting a splint piece of tubing slightly larger then the ID of the axle tube. Then have it machined down to fit perfectly inside the original tube.
Place some centering pucks in the axle tube, insert the rod through the pucks to align up then weld the crap out it. Should be stronger then original.
I think it would be cool to come up with a centering device on the lines of a rifle bore scope that you use to site in the gun so you don't spend so much time and money sighting it. Or some kind of laser beam thing that affixes to one end and shines through a small hole or target that is perfectly centered in the other puck.
In fact I used a laser beam when I shortened the front D44 to line up the knuckle. Just put some small dimple marks along the beam that shown the entire length of tube.
Did 3 hold points, two along the axle housing and one on knuckle. Then once shortened just slip on knuckle, line up all 3 hold points with laser and Dead Drop accurate in the same position. No chance of changing Castor.
The beam of light would be so straight, but then again Einstien did prove that gravity (Sun) does in fact bend light...A little too much coffee this morning, do you think? Could do it at night LOL

I'm feeling a little guilty about sending my stuff out to be built by the "Goths & Vandels" in Tejas.
Just as long as your not sending it to Frank or Jessie in Lincoln Nebraska.
 
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You are going to do a disk brake conversion right?

:thumbsup:

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Note the spring loaded E-brake lever on brake calipers....Twin striker brakes with ARB locker comes to mind if I can swing it?
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This brake caliper with E-brake came off of an Eldorado. Probably same one in the kit.
If I'm not mistaken I can use a Chevy K 20 rotor also.


Here's a
a link with pics of install
, but this one has no E-brake. Also has some info on D 70.

Edit
After doing a whole lot of research, I'm thinking of going K20 calipers instead of the other ones. Finding out on several different sites that the E brake is crap and you have to constantly adjust them.
 
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so your putting 40's on it now right?

Anything less would not compliment a 103" WB. Break over angle comes to mind, including a few other areas.
Those taller tires won't see this truck untill the new axle is in and then order the new rims.
 
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Here's my D70 carrier getting ready to pop out.

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Just in case your wondering which one is the D70...It's the one on the right of the 8.8 :eek:
The 10.5 ring gear of the 70 dwarfs the 8.8. Wish I had a 7.5" ring gear that was originally in this truck.
The cross pin shaft on the 8.8 is around 7/8" where as the 70 is around 1 1/8"
So now with a Full Float rear axle you might say it's my new future C-clip eliminator kit.

On a side note, i did not have to cut the bearing cage on the other side. The race and cage came off together. Had I hit the race a little harder on the other side it would have slid off also. I guess all the years it sat outside had something to do with it. But nothin was scored.
 
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Pressing the 8 lug bolts out of the brake drum with the Sledge-O-Matic to free the floating hub. Drum will be scrapped.


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Hub is riding up against inner bearing on spindle. No more of that monstrous drum. But will weld on a disc brake bracket.
Going to be a lot and I mean a lot of time cleaning the axle tube of spring perch, shock mount and the brake backing plate bracket.

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I like the amount of seperation of the inner and outer hub bearings. Around 4 3/8".


Now I need to start getting parts for the front D44 5 lug to 8 lug conversion.
 
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Starting to skin the entire axle of spring perches and shock mounts.
This was the first shock mount.

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The left side has shock and spring perch gone. The right side has only the spring perch left, it would have been off also had I not ran out of cutting wheels.
Shock mounts were a cake walk, can't say the same about those cast spring perches.
 












It's a thing of beauty forever and a labor of love!

I think the thing of beauty will really show when decked out in this functional diff cover and of coarse some fresh chassis black paint.
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Features
• Lifetime warranty
• Thick nodular iron casting with reinforcing ribs.
• Fully machined seal surface.
• Machined bolt bosses for maximum clamping force.

Benefits
• Adds rigidity to weak factory housings
• Replaces weak factory stamped steel covers
• Large diameter fill plug for easy fluid replacement
• Higher fill plug location for increased fluid capacity
• Dense material quiets down noisy lockers.

Includes:
• Heavy duty powder coated cover.
• Zinc plated hardware (10 pieces)
• Fill plug
• Silicone sealant

I really need to Clean the Bore of this cannon of an axle. No need for all the contaminants to mix with the gear oil and whole host of problems down the trail.
 
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Dirty job

I think the thing of beauty will really show when decked out in this functional diff cover and of coarse some fresh chassis black paint.

I really need to Clean the Bore of this cannon of an axle. QUOTE]

Rick you crack me up, I can just visualize you with a supersized 5 gal. jar of Hoppe's #9 and a 105 mm bronze bore brush, sitting on a "Jerry can" swabbing away with the Gunny standing over you... steady chewing on you butt! Ah times are good!

Solid is my favorite cover for strength & appearence... since you moved the tank and can really see that D70 from afar.
 






I think the thing of beauty will really show when decked out in this functional diff cover and of coarse some fresh chassis black paint.

I really need to Clean the Bore of this cannon of an axle. QUOTE]

Rick you crack me up, I can just visualize you with a supersized 5 gal. jar of Hoppe's #9 and a 105 mm bronze bore brush, sitting on a "Jerry can" swabbing away with the Gunny standing over you... steady chewing on you butt! Ah times are good!

Solid is my favorite cover for strength & appearence... since you moved the tank and can really see that D70 from afar.

Had it been one of those German Bores I'd be using 88mm brush ;)

And Please, under no circumstance attempt to do what you see here...for I'm what you call a trained professional ROTFLMAO

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After reading so much BS on all the sites were the guys have a high level of Testosterone and where the only skills you have is judged by the amount of Trash Talk you can post.
I decided to do as I usually do... Just stare into the clouds of my morning cup of coffee and come up with another "Out of the Box" way of shortening the Dana 70 axle.
Plus more importantly I can look into the dark inside secret of how these spindles are made in a more or less one piece non-removable spindle.
None the less I did remove it and saw a rather non symmetrical but rather a convoluted inside with various contoured wall thicknesses and what appeared to be one of the different ways of making this fine piece of hardware...Friction welding. Now i know how they got the welding rod or should I say lack of welding rod through the end of the spindle. It is nothing like you might imagine of press fit sleeve into the axle and welding.
And even maybe some swagging of the tube.

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No this is not the final cut to length of the axle but I just need to cut this thing off and check it out but from inside to out.
Then the fun part of trying to figure out how to fit this on the main shortened tube that has a different out side dia. It"about an 1/8" at the spindle end. This was due to the machining of the outside and more importantly...super strong and with as little as possible of my monthly retirement check, now that's the real hard part.
It's this "Cart in front of the Horse" attitude that makes me have to get it done or will it become nothing but a good boat anchor ha ha.

The cut off spindle will under go a substantial amount of modifications...If it all goes as planned, and we all know how that can goes.
Plus I should be able to make it removable just in case I ever damage and have to replace spindle. I don't like the idea of replacing the whole tube or complete axle just cause the spindle gets damaged. Plus all the work that will be on the tube like links, shocks and such.
Remember, these spindles are non removable from Dana. But we will see.
 
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Too late now to turn back. Just got that funny little queasy feeling in the stomach. Oh well.

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I bet not too many including me have ever seen pics of a D70 axle tube after the spindle just got sliced off the tube...makes for a less boring day.
I could not place the chop saw at the exact mark that I made on the tube but it's close enough. I reached through the spindle with a welding rod that was bent on a 90 bend and felt the little protrusion. Which at the time felt like an inner sleeve end. Then transfered the amount of rod where the inside lip was and marked the outside.
I'm fascinated by the engineering that went into making of this part.
As you see I was about a 1/16" too short cause I could not place the saw perfect due to disc brake bracket.
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This is the very end of what I assume is a friction weld which is not uncommon for this kind of industry. Check out this Boss Cool video to see what I'm talking about. I'm sure some will learn from this. Hmm, seems it's no more then a fancy butt weld. And now you know how your outer wheel bearing that you did not replace soon enough got welded on the spindle.

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And now for the Inner Sanctum pic, the mother of all inner spindle pics.
"Hey, it's my story and I'll tell it any way I want" thank you very much.
It's not what I expected to see. There are no sharp edges, sleeves or such.
It's basically all one piece. in fact the interior is kinda concave in structure with different amount of thicknesses.
In fact it is surprisingly thin is some areas and over 1/2" thick as in the area that I sliced it.

Just getting an early start on the many 2012 mods, and I thought 2011 was good.
Better get going cause they say end of times will be 2012, but let me calm your fears...No one knows but the Almighty Himself and it'll come like a thief in the night.
That reminds me, I need to start next years Xmas saving plans.
 
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