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Seat Belt Receiver Removal

Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by Dan66, November 18, 2008.

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    1. Dan66

      Dan66 New Member

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      Hello all,

      Tried a search on this but came up empty...

      1996 Explorer XLT: The Receiving end of my driver's seat belt has given up the ghost (won't clasp onto the male piece any more).

      Wondering what's involved in replacing it... Does the entire seat have to come out? Are there special tools needed?

      Any advice is greatly appreciated!
       
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    3. IZwack

      IZwack Moderator Emeritus

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      Yes the seat has to be removed but its no biggie -- 4 bolts to the seat and 1 bolt connecting that part fo the seatbelt to the body of the vehicle. The only special tool needed is I think a large (I forget the size) TORX socket (for the thing tying the belt to the body).

      [​IMG]
       
    4. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      Yeah it's pretty easy to do it, the torx bit is a t-47 btw
       
    5. Dan66

      Dan66 New Member

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      Thanks for such quick responses, guys. S'pose I'll finally get the floor clean under the seat now!

      While we're on the subject: is this a part best bought new from Ford or is a used eBay purchase typically alright? I've seen them for $25 or $30 used – but if brand new, what's a ballpark price?
       
    6. techieman33

      techieman33 Explorer Addict

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      It's about $75 for a new one as fastpartsnetwork.com (a site sponsor)
       
    7. Joe Dirt

      Joe Dirt Elite Explorer

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      T-47? I've always used a T-50... Make sure so you don't shred the inside of the bolt...
       
    8. marragtop

      marragtop Well-Known Member

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      I had the same problem with my belt receiver on my 95. As it turned out, a dime got lodged into it and was keeping the belt from latching. I was eventually able to twist it around enough to get it upside down, press the button and pull the dime out with a very small screwdriver. It's worth a shot before pulling the seat out.
       
    9. Dan66

      Dan66 New Member

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      Wish it could be that simple! The problem with my receiver is that the button stays in the pressed-in position - and very loosely, at that. There's no spring action that returns it to the red button back to the surface level.

      I've inspected it with a flash light and believe it's simply shot. I guess there's only a finite number of clicks we can expect from these things!
       
    10. DoubleTap

      DoubleTap New Member

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      Hi Dan,

      I have this same problem. Just started a couple of months ago. How did your replacement go?

      Do you think this is something a total car rookie can do?

      Hope it went smoothly for you.

      Ernie
       
    11. Dan Whitaker

      Dan Whitaker One fast putty tat Elite Explorer

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      Very simple to do. just need the right tools.
       
    12. Spdrcer34

      Spdrcer34 Well-Known Member

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      I just had to do this on a friends `95 Explorer.

      My swap was a LITTLE more involved, as he has a Brown (EB) interior, and the replacement belt was out of my old Grey (Ltd.) interior. So I had to swap the ' plastic cover too.

      There are 4 bolts on the floor board, I think they are 13mm. And the T47 (T50 works) bolt on the transmission tunnel.

      Don't forget to unplug the Seat Belt Sensor plug, and power seat plug, if applicable.

      Once the seat is free from the car, there is 1 (one) 10mm Bolt, and 1 (one) 10mm nut that needs to be removed from the seat to remove the 'L' shaped rail that the seat belt slides on.

      There is a little white plastic 'christmas tree' that needs to be tapped out of the way to remove the seat belt bracket from the rail.

      If you got the WHOLE bracket, just slide it on and install in reverse order.

      If you only have the seatbelt receiver, you need to get the old one off the bracket first. The nut is only 'spot welded' in place, and the nut MAY be totally round, or it may be a real 6 sided nut. I used an impact gun to remove the bolt. It made it A LOT easier.

      Ryan
       
    13. MountaineerGreen

      MountaineerGreen Towing Moderator Moderator Emeritus

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    14. 2lefthands

      2lefthands New Member

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      Thanks to all who posted above for the helpful hints.

      I've purchased a replacement receiver for my 1996 XLT, and have successfully gotten the seat removed, and the receiver bracket off of the rail.
      Now I'm stuck trying to remove the Torx bolt from the receiver bracket, which doesn't provide enough surface space to hang on to while trying to crank the bolt with a socket wrench.

      I haven't got the option of hitting it with an impact wrench - any suggestions on how to go about removing this pesky bolt?
      I've tried using clamps to attach it to a worktable in my garage while I crank the bolt with no success, stepping on the metal while I try to turn it, and using a screwdriver through the bracket to offset the direction I turn the bolt. Nothing seems to work.

      Side note: I'm following the "lefty loose-y, righty tighty" rule; this bolt doesn't go opposite, does it?

      Any help is greatly appreciated.
       
    15. marragtop

      marragtop Well-Known Member

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      Can you put the bracket in a bench vise while you turn the bolt? Also, are you sure the bolt isn't spot welded in?
       
    16. 95Bauer

      95Bauer New Member

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      Replaced mine on the driver's side today. No need to remove the seat at all. The center console removes very easily and provides plenty of room to access the torx screw head. The only difficult part was applying lots of torque to get the screw loose. After that, it was simple.

      Purchased the buckle assy from Ford Dealership parts counter. $66.14 after a discount off the $72.00 list price.

      Anyone having difficultly with this - you're welcome to PM me w/ questions. Just want to pay-back the many good tips I received here.
       
    17. DR

      DR New Member

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      On my 1993 I did it my way. I didn't remove the seat or the console. My way may take longer but less is tore apart. Work slow and patient. Unplug the seat belt switch. Position the seat and seat back to aid in getting the job done. Remove the number 50 torx head bolt that holds the back of the seat belt rail to the floor. Give yourself all the room you can by putting something between the seat cushion and console. I rolled up a rug. The side of the console is rough so take note. It will skin the back of your had real easily. Small hands work best. Back out the number 10mm bolt head that mounts the seat belt bracket to the seat. A small 10mm box end ratchet makes the job go faster. It could be an off set box end ratchet would help. Last is the number 10mm nut at the front of the slide rail that mounts to the seat. At this point all comes out as a unit. By placing the seat belt welded nut in a bench vice remove the number 50 torx head bolt to replace with a good new or used seat belt receiver. Put back together in the reverse. Thanks to all of you guys for your input to make the job easier. Good luck, Don
       
    18. ghh97eb

      ghh97eb Member

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      Replacing the driver's side seat belt reciever

      Hello all,

      Using the info provided in this thread, I recently replaced the driver's side seatbelt reciever in my good old 97 Eddie. I have done a number of fixes using the helpful hints from this message board (curise control switches, replace high mount brake light with LEDs, replace stock subwoofer with larger subwoofer, fix blend door actuator, and fix LOM, to name a few) and this one was the easiest of them all! Took me a total of 20 minutes to remove the driver's seat, replace the seat belt reciever, and then re-attach the seat.

      I know that there is an alternative method of removing the center console instead of the seat. However, in my opinion, removing the center console is much more labor-intensive. There are more screws / parts to loosen for the center console, but more importantly, I did not like the idea of having to hit the metal bar inside of the center console with a hammer to get it to dislodge from the transmission hump (keeping in mind that in the Eddie Bauer, there is a 6 CD changer unit housed within the center console and that CD changer units don't respond very well to intense shocks). The driver's seat was surprisingly light and very easy to unbolt from the frame. One thing to keep in mind, though--disconnect the power to the power seat mechanism only after you have moved the seat back and forth to allow easy access to all of the bolts holding the seat down. Then, reconnect the power as the first thing you do after replacing and reattaching the seatbelt reciever to the seat. Also, make sure that you have the right tools -- I used a socket set that has both metric and standard, and I also used my Torx bits. Piece of cake! :cool::exp:
       
    19. 5.0

      5.0 Active Member

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      .

      I removed the center console... just 5 bolts and pull back on it.

      Also, if sourcing your replacement receiver from a junkyard, it may be a lot easier to remove the center console since the electric seats won't work.

      .
       
    20. TanKs

      TanKs New Member

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      this is the way to go fellas. on my 97, just take the 10mm bolt that mounts the seat belt bracket to the seat, then move up the seat all the way to the front. there's plenty of wiggle in the rail so you can take out the T-50 bolt.

      thanks for all the help here! :thumbsup:
       
    21. Jay Cee9276

      Jay Cee9276 New Member

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      Thanks alot to all of you!! I replaced my seatbelt receiver with (sumwhat) of an ease! DR and Tanks are right.. you don't need to remove the drivers seat or center console Again thanks alot for the help!
       
    22. Electrohacker

      Electrohacker Well-Known Member

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      I just bought the cheap stanley torx set from walmart and replaced the part fro $5 at the scrapyard... happened to me in... 06? I was on my way home and it wouldnt buckle

      I sat on the belt buckle as to not get a ticket
       
    23. Baileybc

      Baileybc New Member

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      This is an excellent thread on the buckle replacement, which needed for my 1997 XLT. I will also have a look for the dime and hope for the best. Apparently aftermarket belts may not interface with the air bag. Is the G-switch in the bag or in the buckle assembly?
       
    24. Baileybc

      Baileybc New Member

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      97 XLT Driver Side Seat Removal with T-50 Torx

      Ford dealer in Bend sells the 97 XLT driver side seat belt buckle for $75 and discounted to $68. You can purchase used on eBay for around $25 including shipping, but how much service time is on the used part is problematic, so decided to suck up the extra cost for new for the part that failed at 13 yrs, about 18,000 service cycles. The 4 10 mm bolts can be removed in 5 minutes, using the electric seat control to offer the best removal position. Removed the T-50 bolt on the belt slide rail. With the 4 10 mm and Torx removed, the seat can be slid sideways to allow easy access the the T-50 bolt securing the buckle end to the slide rail. Vacuumed around the seat floor to remove the Border Collie hairs and general dirt/dog biscuits. Without any cleaning, the disassembly/reassembly should take 15 minutes or less. Sears sells the T-50 socket for $6.80 or Western Tools for $4.99.

      The seat removal is so easy, removed the passenger seat to clean under the seat. Will post a picture of the operation.
      [​IMG]

      :salute:

      The old belt ID was TC752, new belt TD783. A temporary "fix" for the broken buckle is to reload the broken locking tab with a small screwdriver, using the latter to push the broken tab back into place. Works...sort of....but the replacement process is very easy.
       
    25. NCRYPTD

      NCRYPTD New Member

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      I had a bad dealer experience with my '95's driver seatbelt. I described as best I could that the belt would come unbuckled, and the latch button didn't really pop back up fully. I thought surely they would test it to see what I was talking about. At the time, I presumed you had to buy the whole seat belt, not realizing you could buy the two parts separately. I waited at the dealership for the repair to be done, and they never came out and asked me anymore questions about it.

      When I went to leave, the seatbelt came unbuckled right off, so I went back in, and told them they didn't fix it. Well they had replaced the whole belt part, but not the short stub with the latch on it. This is when I learned you could buy the parts separately. So they took it back in and replaced the latch end part, but would not refund. and reinstall my old belt. So it ended up costing me close to $300 I think it was.

      That was the first time my dealer had really screwed me over, but it really pissed me off!
       
    26. margaretia

      margaretia New Member

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      having to replace the seat belt buckle. pulled the console off and such. but i can't get the T50 bolt that holds the seat belt buckle undone for anything!!! is it spot welded or something??
       

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