SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga

[2000StreetRod]

Don't understand

. . . I am kinda concerned that the convertor will not push forward and the studs out of the flexplate holes...I got them loose but I cannot move the convertor out of the flexplate at all and this is different than any other tranny I have worked with...

I don't understand your problem. Are you trying to remove the torque converter as well as the engine? I believe the torque converter only slips on/off the transmission shaft. When the engine is removed and the torque converter stays in place it will look like the photo below.

After the engine is separated from the transmission and the dust guard is removed it will look like the photo below.

I believe the rear of your OHV is identical to my SOHC except your crank has 6 flexplate bolts and mine has 8.

 

[ranger7ltr]

I can't push the convertor towards the transmission...

Every other automatic I have worked on the torque convertor and studs are movable towards the transmission and out of the flexplate so that when you remove the engine you don't have engagement of the convertor studs with the flexplate.. And yes all 4 of the convertor nuts has been removed from the studs...

No I am not trying to remove the convertor...In fact I am trying to MAKE certain I DON't remove the convertor when I pull the engine off the front of the trannsmission...

All I am trying to understand is do I need to level the tranny/engine package for the first inch or so to make sure the studs on the convertor will be clear of the flexplate before I start angling the engine up and out of the engine bay...

 

[janolsson]

ranger7ltr
I know space is tight around the starter aperture but could you put something in thro the hole to pry the convert up a mm or so i.e take the weight of it to help slide it on the shaft. It should slide back enough to clear the studs from the flexplate. Failing the pry method just wiggle and shove or employ a small child with tiny hands

 

[ranger7ltr]

I need to find a proper tool for that...

I didn't think I didn't have a proper bar to press the convertor backwards but apparently I didn't under the truck...I will upgrade my tool in the morning and see if I can get this dude to move for me...

I was actually trying to raise the convertor through the small cutout at the bottom of the bellhousing... I will try to move it through the starter hole next..

Thanks for the tip janolsson...

 

[ranger7ltr]

I believe the rear of your OHV is identical to my SOHC except your crank has 6 flexplate bolts and mine has 8.

Actually my new and old OHV has an 8 bolt flexplate as well...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Transmission shaft provides alignment

The transmission shaft extends thru the torque converter a little more than the length of the torque converter bolts. It will keep the stress off the torque converter bolts as you slide/rock the engine away from the transmission. I had my lift points on the engine too far forward and there was a lot of rear engine weight on the transmission shaft. The rear of the engine dropped quite a bit when I pulled it away from the transmission and it cleared the transmission shaft. I haven't closely checked the torque converter bolts yet but I haven't noticed any damage.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Clean block!

Actually my new and old OHV has an 8 bolt flexplate as well...

I envy the cleanliness of your new short block! Maybe in a year or two mine will look similar.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Sometimes ignorance is bliss...

I envy the cleanliness of your new short block! Maybe in a year or two mine will look similar.

I wish I didn't need to replace the shortblock...All I planned to do was to replace the head gaskets and the new heads since I bought them last year when I bought the truck...Now this engine had good compression and didn't seem to burn any oil yet I felt one or more of the valves was leaking so I pulled the old heads and imagine my surprise when I found this...This cylinder in the top 1/3rd is almost .115" bigger than the lower bore...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Plugged oil returns

That's pretty bad. Your top compression ring must have been really getting a work out.

It also looks like most of your oil returns are clogged. One advantage of the SOHC heads is that the openings for the cassettes will always allow oil to return to the pan from the heads. On the OHV head if enough oil returns get clogged all the oil will end up in the heads and the oil pump will starve causing bearing failure.

One reason my timing chain repair has taken so long is due to the time I'm spending cleaning the sludge anywhere I can get to it. Otherwise, I doubt I would ever get the sludge out with just a five minute engine flush before each oil change.

 

[ranger7ltr]

This is after driving 19k on synthetic oil...

The oil return openings were actually open and flowing oil but this engine was a sludge pit from the day I got it...I cleaned it up and got all the sludge out of the top end but with the cylinder looking like that there was no way I was puttling new heads on that...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Jackshaft plug orientation?

Normally I save all my old parts until all my new ones are installed and the project is complete. Unfortunately, after destroying my jackshaft rear cover/plug I must have thrown it away knowing it was not reuseable. However, the new replacement plug is somewhat different and I'm not certain which way to install it. The photos of the outside of the old plug are shown below during it's removal.

It appears that the metallic surface is on the outside and the non-metallic surface is on the inside which seems logical.

The metallic side of the new plug is shown below.

The non-metallic side of the new plug is shown below.

My concern is the "design" is on the opposite side for the new plug. I plan to install it with the metallic side on the outside but would like some assurances from someone else.

 

[CDW6212R]

The dimples on the surface of both match, I'd go by that. I don't think that that part is critical, isn't it just to plug the hole?

To everyone, watch the crank gear though, that one is critical as to which way to install it. The concave side goes out away from the crank.

 

[cjmedina]

I see why you have this question

It looks like it should be the top view but the bottom view matches closer to the way it came off.....?????

 

[2000StreetRod]

Assault on exhaust bolt

Today I decided it was time to make another attempt to remove the exhaust manifold bolt I was forced to cut off in order to remove the engine. I began the assault by spraying both sides of the flange with PB Blaster. Then I used an old dull center punch and hammer to alternately tap each end of the bolt shaft several times. Next I threaded onto the bolt one of the two very strong nuts I had purchased from my local fastener specialty shop. I threaded it on as far as possible without contacting the rounded exhaust pipe seat. Then I threaded on the second nut as far as possible and tightened the two nuts against each other as shown below.

The nut hex size was larger than 18mm but a 19mm wrench was a loose fit as was a 3/4 inch so I used my 12 inch Crescent wrench to get a tight fit on the inner nut. I was pleasantly surprised that the bolt shaft moved slightly as I applied force to loosen it. I immediately applied more BP Blaster and alternately tightened and loosened the bolt. Each time the amount of rotation increased as the lubricant/solvent penetrated the threads. Eventually I worked the bolt entirely out without any damage to the manifold threads.

I'll purchase four new bolts from the dealer and use plenty of anti-seize compound when I install them.

 

[bluestream1]

If your exhaust studs are too rusty, I have found that broken exhaust studs can be easily removed by heating the exahust manifold red hot. Then take a large sloted screwdriver and tap in into the broken stud. The stud can then be removed by turning the screwdriver and backing out the stud. Has worked many times for me.

Also, sometimes it is easier to take a sawzall and cut the exhaust pipe below the manifold. Then when you put the engine back in, line up the pipes and weld them together.

 

[Vargas]

...

 

[2000StreetRod]

Jackshaft rear plug installed

Thank you everyone for posting your opinions and answering my PMs regarding the orientation of the new style jackshaft rear plug. I searched the internet, reviewed the Ford assembly instructions and deliberated considerably before deciding how to install it. The photo below of the opening illustrates what finally swayed my decision.

The top of the jackshaft rear sprocket bolt is slightly lower than the bottom of the plug opening. The new plug has a cup that is slightly larger in diameter than the head of the bolt. When the plug is installed with the bare metal side out there is more clearance between the rotating bolt head and the plug. Another factor is I didn't like the idea of hitting the rubber covered side with something to drive it in. Also, I decided to paint the block Ford blue and the paint will adhere to the metal side much better than the rubberized side. I used my trusty 36mm socket to drive it in. It was necessary to relocate one of the engine stand support arms in order to drive it squarely. The completed installation is shown in the photo below.

Right or wrong, this is how it will be at least until my future engine rebuild.

 

[shelbygt]

Right or wrong, this is how it will be at least until my future engine rebuild.

Well one of us has it in wrong, I hope it is not me..LOL
Here is how mine looked from the factory....

 

[McSlug]

tricky one with the jackshaft plug it does look back to front with the design. I would have picked the most recessed side to be internal. if the non metallic side is rubber it may act as a dampner when knocking it in.
I have a spare engine I bought ($100 with new timing gear in the front and complete from flex plate to air filter but missed out on tranny for same price) I have stripped it down all bar the heads but alas I threw away the jackshaft plug, but it did look the same as shelbygt's pic. The hole where it fits was clean on the internal half of the gap indicating to me that the metal contact would be towards the inside. I will try to post a pic for better understanding.
I cant see it being a problem if there is clearance.
I wouldn't leave it as final. maybe keep looking/asking till your ready to drop it in. not an expensive part but you know what you'll have to do to replace it.

 

[McSlug]

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab258/McSlug/Explorer Timing Chain/th_P280410_2132.jpg

grrrrr don't know why I can't post pic but here's the link