Discussion in 'Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers' started by awesomeang, February 15, 2009.
do you have to pull engine to replace timing chains on 4.0 sohc engine
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yes, you have to pull it to get to the chain on the back side of the motor.
thank you for taking the time to reply,although i had found my answer to that question already it leaves me with several new questions
There are 3 chains: 2 front and 1 back. The front chains can be serviced (tensioners/guides) with the motor still in the truck. The rear chain must be serviced with the motor out of the truck.
Are you planning on replacing the chains or servicing the tensioners and guides? What got you to this point?
Why are their 3 chains? Thats something i havent quite understood. And why in the back?
AutoZone's Repair Guide: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528018ec62
Why do people climb mountains? Because they can...
Why do engineers make things more complex than they need to be? Because they can...
I climb mountains...and I am friends with many engineers. I just never climb mountains with engineers...keeps me safe.
well its my friends truck she was driving down the road and it quit on her and thats where i came in,i suspected it had jumped time or chain had broken, had no idea that ford could design something so silly...anyway she does'nt have the money to fix it the right way so i was gonna just replace the giudes and tensioners and leave the chains alone but engine has 197k so not really sure thats smart not to mention the parts are 360.00 with my nephews ford discount...any thoughts??
Do we have non interference engines, or are they interference engines? I think if one keeps quality clean oil (frequent oil/oil filter changes), that this would help prolong the life of the chains themselves. However, at what mileage do they begin to really stretch and or wear out, or better yet, what is the average life span of the tensioner/chain guides? Thanks in advance!
It is crappy plastic, not soft metal. The cam chain design looks like a 1930s bicycle and will offer way too much rotary impact pressure than the rails can provide. I suppose affirmative action engineers have finally found their place. Unfortunately, indeed.
I have I think the same problem with mine and was wondering the best advice of where to go from here. Something finally broke on the guides and I'm pretty sure that it got loose enough to skip a few teeth on the chain. If the front chain skipped would the rear skip as well? Should I just plan on pulling motor to take a good look at everything? Like most people I don't have the money to do all that I should but just need to get it running again.
Another rought that I thought about going is swapping motor. I found a motor, tranny, transfer case and all wiring including computer still assembled for $350. It's from a '96 with 108k and mine is a '98 with 219k. I should be able to just put everything in from the '96 correct?
I would not put any time or money into an engine with 197K. That motors best years are behind it.
replacing rear taiming chain guide ford explorer 4,0
yes you have to remove the engine out and the top cylinder pasenger site that you can fix the timing chaine guide ,if the sporket is ok and the chain is ok dont go more than that , to get more informaitions and instructions go to this link i get every think is here D:\ford explorer repaiurs\Ford Explorer SOHC Timing Chain Replace.mht
Frequent oil changes will not alleviate this problem. All timing chains will stretch and weaken with age; that's why Ford is including new chains in the kits. As for service life of the guides/chains, I would say they need to be done at least once during the life of the engine.
I have a 2001 Explorer Sport 4.0 SOCH with a bad timing chain guide (RH Cassette). I pulled the head to check for internal damage but forgot to drain the oil first. When I did drain the oil there was about a 1/4 gallon of coolant in the oil pan. the oil itself did not look like coolant was being burnt, and there was no oil in the overflow. Is it possible the coolant got in through the cylinders when I removed the head?
I just did my timing chains at almost 205,000 miles. I would recommend replacing the chains, guides, and tensioners, but you can probably leave the sprokets. I was sort of kicking myself for buying the kit for each timing chain and not just the individual parts. But I don't know how much money that might have actually saved me. Good luck.
SOHC V6 timing chain comments
1. Ford did an injustice to its customers by producing an engine with a camshaft timing chain in the rear that requires engine removal for replacement of the camshaft chain, guide assembly or jackshaft rear sprocket. The magnitude of the injustice was increased by utilizing (and not improving) a plastic guide assembly with no metal reinforcement on the traction side that fractures from fatigue.
2. The SOHC spring/hydraulic camshaft timing chain tensioner is an inferior design compared to the OHV ratchet spring/hydraulic camshaft timing chain tensioner. The spring pressure is inadequate to prevent timing chain slip when oil pressure is low, when the engine backfires, or when the engine is manually rotated counter-clockwise. I recommend replacing the hydraulic tensioners every 75,000 miles or when the cassettes are replaced.
3. The primary (crankshaft to jackshaft) tensioner was an inferior design subject to failure at 50,000 miles. The upgraded primary tensioner is significantly improved and should provide a reasonable service life.
4. The improved camshaft timing chain guide assemblies are still subject to fatigue failure because the metal reinforcement is not bonded to the plastic.
5. Using high quality engine oil with replacement of oil and filter at recommended interval will reduce chain to guide assembly contact wear but will not delay fracture failure. The use of a pre-oiler/oil accumulator will reduce the chance of chain slippage by preventing low oil pressure when the engine is running (start up and hard cornering/braking).
6. The SOHC is an interference engine. When the timing chain slips enough the valves will collide with the pistons. The most frequent occurrence is the exhaust valves dinging the pistons requiring removal of the head and replacement of the valves.
7. The guide assembly fails much sooner than the associated chain or sprockets. It is acceptable to replace the guide assembly without replacing the associated chain or sprocket. After the engine runs for a few hours wear patterns result on the chain and sprockets. The chain and associated sprockets should be replaced as an assembly. Individual cassette components (guides, chains, sprockets) are no longer available from Ford.
8. Aftermarket guide assemblies are frequently inferior to those available from Ford. They may be warped or soon warp. They may wear much faster. They may fracture sooner. According to a Cloyes engineer I spoke with the guide assemblies that come with their timing chain kits are from the same manufacturer that makes them for Ford.
Here are links to threads containing more information relating to the SOHC V6 timing chain system:
Rear Timing Chain Tensioner Replacement
SOHC V6 Camshaft Timing
Starting my 00M12 Installation
Main timing chain - OHV vs SOHC
Timing chain rattle resolution process - SOHC V6
SOHC V6 Timing Chain Saga
I tend to disagree. I have 280,000 on my 94 and she is still running great. Sure she has parts go wrong. What vehichle dont? I think they are still young at 197.
How to remove the fan clutch assemble ?
Ok I got a question. In order to remove the fan clutch assemble the nut behind the clutch has to be turned clockwise or counterclockwise ?? Thanks in advance.
counter. Just went through the whole timing set swap myself. Every guide in the engine was broken.
Thanks so much. I'm going through the whole nightmare of having to replace everything after the rear chain broke and still I'm not sure if a valve suffered damage. So far it seems it's going to cost me around $1800.00 to fix all the damage. Why do Ford had to make this timing setup so damn complicated.
Left timing chain 4.0
01 ranger 4.0 , I put marks on the cam and on the jackshaft sprocket and crank I loosed up the cam bolt every thing is fine as soon as i loosed the jackshaft bolts the marks moved my ?? is can i just line my marks back up and install chains and guide ... Thanks in advance
Jackshaft may move
When the front jackshaft sprocket bolt retaining bolt is loosened the jackshaft can turn relative to the crankshaft. When the crankshaft is at TDC with cylinder #1 on the compression stroke there is considerable valve spring pressure from the right bank that tends to rotate the right camshaft. Your right camshaft timing may have been lost.
What will i need to do now to set the cams ? is there a step by step ?thanks