Torque Monster Headers Install Write-up and Review

[Dan Whitaker]

Sweet! Welcome to the Torque Monster Club

 

[96EXPXL]

Site is UP now

Well i just checked the torque monster site and it is up.

Unfortunately with a new baby here I have not been able to get back to this project until now.

The pictures of the headers do not do them justice. I was absolutely amazed when I opened the box.

Comes complete with Ford Hardware, altough I am contemplating replacing them with stainless (salt sux).

Definately go with the cobra spacer and the modified EGR tube.

Another tip from Bob was to use the valve covers from the Fox Mustang. Get rid of the cheap stamped steel ones while I am in there. They are a direct bolt on and cast aluminum. I found a used pair through craigslist. Not sure if i want to polish or paint. Porbably end up paint that and the intake at the same time.

 

[Jason c]

I'm still waiting on mine.

 

[96EXPXL]

Thats a bummer of a deal, but other than the wait time, you will not be disapointed. Hopefully this is just an upgrade for you and your vehicle is not down.

 

[Jason c]

Not down, just sounds like a tractor. Exhaust leak on both sides and driving me nuts.

 

[66427]

Rear bolt on cylinder #3 twisted right off. I hadn't even started really bearing down yet.

All other bolts are out, fairly easily, but I'm done for the day. I'll start on the collector bolts tomorrow.

Once the manifold is out I will try a set of vise grips and some heat to get whats left of the bolt out...fortunatly it twisted off flush with the manifold and not flush with the block.

Anybody have any other suggestions??
Anybody in Clarksville TN want to come by and give it a try?
I'll buy ALL the libation you can consume...after the bolt is out...

 

[Cobraguy]

Ugh...ugly.

First thing I would do is heat it up good and hot. Let it cool. As it cools, hit it with penetrating oil. The cooling temps will suck the oil into the threads. Try to remove the bolt. If it doesn't come, and before you lose what you have to work with, heat it up again and try and remove it.

The other alternative that works extremely well is to weld a nut onto what is left of the bolt. In fact, if you have a welder, that is the procedure I would take.

Finally, if the threads are actually cross threaded in the head, you are going to have to drill it out and use a Helicoil. Believe it or not, I think that can be done on the car. You may have to remove the evaporator box though. I don't have my car handy to see if that's the case or not. But if it is, that's easier than pulling the head IMO.

 

[66427]

Thanks Cobraguy, thats kinda what I was thinking with the heat.

I was actually kinda concerned that weldinf a nut on the bolt "remnents" might cause the threads to become welded to the block...Any chance of that happening?

 

[TekMan05]

The only way I would even consider selling my TMH's is if someone made full length long tube headers for a 5.0 Explorer/ Mountaineer application

 

[techieman33]

The only way I would even consider selling my TMH's is if someone made full length long tube headers for a 5.0 Explorer/ Mountaineer application

I would give them up for larger primaries and collectors if they were still tuned.

 

[TekMan05]

Ohh man imagine how much more aggressive they could sound that way along with hi flow cats.

 

[Jason c]

Quick question. Any of you port match your heads before putting the headers on? Started tearing mine down and will do the install tomorrow.

 

[Cobraguy]

Nah... These heads and cam are so crappy I couldn't see any return on the time investment. It's all done by 5000 rpm. Now, bolt on as set of 165 AFR's with a decent cam, and you will be blown away. You can get 100 hp without much more than that and these headers and still have excellent street manners. Just don't get carried away with the cam and heads. On an Explorer, bigger is not necessarily better.

 

[jturkey69]

Update.....


I have a Wi vehicle; the bolts were very challenging to get out! Heat Heat Heat the bolts well. Follow the directions take the inner wheel wells OUT. Take the advise to loosen the motor mount from the bottom!!!!! An 18mm swivel (2) 6'' extentions in 3/8" will do the trick. You need to go in from the wheel well, inbetween the two A arms theres a hole in the frame. It is the best way to put the passager side in.

Im hoping when we are ready to put in an order for TMH, that the 65,000 mile 98 we just bought will still be nice and clean since it hasnt really seen a winter yet from the previous owners.. Looks like I will be following your threads as the 4406 is on the wish list..lol

 

[Spdrcer34]

Just an update on what parts should be used:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329357

Here's the short version: Buy ARP bolt # 400-1110 to install the headers. Click on the link for pictures on why you should do that.

 

[66427]

anybody found a better way to do that inner (engine side) header to exhaust flange bolt that this guy cut?

I'm on that one right now- trying not to have to cut it.

-drew

thanks

After a half feeble attempt with a stubby hacksaw in which I hardly scratched any rust off, I pulled the starter and hit it with a sawzall.

 

[sean99]

Gearwrench worked fine for the inside bolt...

 

[Spdrcer34]

I get that one from the Bottom, with a SINGLE 20" extension, and universal joint attached to the socket.

No problems at all..

Ryan

 

[Cobraguy]

I get that one from the Bottom, with a SINGLE 20" extension, and universal joint attached to the socket.

No problems at all..

Ryan

Agreed. I actually have a 4' (not a typo) 1/2" drive extension I use with an impact and wobbly sockets for removing bellhousing bolts on 4X4's with the transfer case attached. It worked perfectly for this as well. But the easiest I saw was with the a/c box out of it. Man...all kinds of room!

 

[66427]

Dang thats a clean manifold! I bet it did come out with just a bit of lube!