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not what my problem is, the shaft spins with engine rotation normally, the aluminum body moves freely around the shaft but the assembly will not come out of the block because something with the center shaft/gear/pump shaft etc... will not release

hi, ive been trying to get the cam position sensor out of my 97 5.0. the body is free, and the sensor rotates via engine rotation without any issue, but it refuses to release from the cam gear/OP shaft or what ever is holding it in there. anyone have any ideas on getting it out of there...

whats your estimated C to C length on the shaft? the 4406 swap uses a front shaft from a 4.6 truck, its got a lot of movement in the slip joint. also could look for one from other older trucks seeing that old fords came with the np205 and your axles as stock fanfare

usually kept pretty clean by friction....

it clears

??? does it matter if other parts of the clutch assembly get rusty other then the friction surface?

it might, but does it matter?

i totally should have gone ZF, the m5r2 is a pig to shift and my clutch is superheavy :/ im not running any plate between my engine and trans

I did a quick search and it didnt turn anything up, i've already ordered new spiders and have got one shaft out by grinding the lip away from the edge of the c clip. im just going to solider on

good fluid maintenance may be more key then you realize, especially transmission and drive axles. keeping good condition fluid in the components will help absorb and disperse heat when under a heavy load, poor fluids will do a lesser job and drive more heat/energy into parts making them wear...

im sure it would work fine with the carrier out of the truck, but with the carrier in the truck there is not enough room clear a drill from various brackets welded to the axle (a 90 degree might work) i'm just going to slot the spider gears, slide the c clips out, and take the carrier apart...

cant use this with the carrier in the truck... how do i get the c-clips out without taking the pin out lol...

hi started to work on taking the diff out of my truck to rebuild the LSD and an overall refresher, broke the cross pin retaining bolt (shank) off in the carrier (felt like it was broken already anyway by how easy the bolt came out). I cant think of anyway i could get the carrier our...

ordered one, so i guess we'll see if it fits when it comes in next week

its still billy-trash rigging with those things seeing that, again, the shock mounts were never really designed to cope with much weight get new leafs or do a shackle lift

only air shocks or load assist shocks could give you a "lift" any others will not lift the vehicle as they are not a load bearing member of the suspension any gains claimed by shocks are probably suspension that hasn't settled after the weight was unloaded to change the front shocks

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393697

anyone try the solid cover on their 2gen explorer with the stock rear sway bar? i'm thinking about getting it for my tow/offroad/winter rig to augment my axle rebuild. Also, other then protection from crashing into things. Do you think it adds any axle strength? i would think it would help...

anyone want to look at a wiring diagram?

I though the link in the walkthrough was for a free BE from moates itself? all the eeciv guys say good things about them but i have read in a few different spots that the eecv ecu's require a "strategy" file. I dont really know what this strategy file is or how it effects operation. my only...

no one?

1997 xlt 4dr all windows stopped working at once along with the "lock" function of the power lock switch. checking the wiring diagrams and probing the connector at the window switch, the switch connector has system voltage and ground. The switch is good (all window switches and window...

see blend door fix in the sticky section

snake oil, period...