Since I have a lot of time to waste I will go ahead and explain it.
Front Brakes Only
Tools and more:
-Socket set (10mm-22mm will probably do the job)
-C-clamp (or channel locks)
-DOT 3 Brake fluid
-Hose Clamp (or something to pench the rubber line)
-Sand Paper (high grit) or Wire Brush
-Brake Lube (ACDelco makes some good stuff, but you can use silicone grease as well)
First Things First:
-Jack up the front wheels and secure properly
-Remove wheels to access rotors/brakes
-Do NOT leave the key in the locked position (this will keep you from turning the rotors left or right for better access to bolts,etc.)
Turn the rotors to the side where it'll be easy to access the bolts (i.e. turn the driver side to the right for better access and turn the passenger side to the left for better access)
Remove the bolts for the caliper (2) and pull the caliper out of the way (it is ok to let the caliper hang, but it is recommended to tie the caliper up)
Remove the pads and make sure you note the inboard and outboard pads (unless all 4 new pads are the same - which I think for an Explorer they are).
Remove the craddle bolts (2) from the spindle and set it aside.
Step 2b (optional - for rotor replacement only):
Pull the rotor off and and and replace the rotor with the new one. When I do a brake job at work, I will still machine (turn) the rotors to make sure they are true. A non-true rotor will cause a vibration, pull, and/or a brake pad grab (aka. clunking).
Be sure to clean the rotor off very well with brake clean or other before putting the craddle and pads back on and after complete installation. Grease, dirt, etc. can cause a brake vibration, pull, and more than likely noise.
Take the sand paper and clean all metal to metal surfaces (i.e. where the pads sit in the craddle, the piston in the caliper, etc.). You can usually tell what needs cleaning by the rust on it. If your brakes did not come with new anti-rattle/noise clips, clean the ones you have and put some grease (a small amount) on the clips where the pads will sit.
Pull the slider pins out of the caliper and clean them off with a rag. Re-apply grease to the pins and a little inside the hole. Do not put too much in, it can only hold but so much. If the pins aren't fully compressed that is ok. Be sure non of the pins are stuck (before and after you clean) or you may have a problem.
Check the boot around the piston for cracks - dirt around the piston may cause the piston to lock up and/or seize.
Put grease on the back of the pads (DO NOT use a lot - just in contact spots).
Put a hose clamp on the rubber line and open the bleeder screw. Take a old pad if needed and put it against the caliper piston and use a c-clamp or channel locks to push the piston back and the fluid out of the bleeder screws. Bleeder screws should NOT be take all the way out -- just brake them loose so fluid may draw out. Close the bleeder screw once the piston is fully depressed. Then remove the hose clamp.
Put the craddle back into position and tighten down as tight as possible (do not exceed 150 ft. lbs). You may use loc-tite on these bolts.
Put the pads in the right place and put the caliper back on and bolt the caliper down. Do not overtighten - bolts should only be tight, not too tight. I would say at most 65 ft. lbs.
Clean the rotor again by spinning it (may be a little tight) and spraying it clean with brake clean or something as good.
Do the same on the other side.
After every brake job I do a bleeding sequence called gravity bleeding. If you only did the front, then you should be ok by only bleeding the front. By depressing the calipers the way we did - this should not allow air into the system unless you have a leak elsewhere.
Gravity Bleeding Procedures:
Make sure the master cylinder is full and the cap is off. Brake open the bleeder (one at a time) starting with the left front to right front to left rear to right rear (a.k.a. the Z) Open the bleeder screw on the left front and allow fluid to run out until it looks like it's running constantly and no air is coming out. Close off the bleeder and clean off the brake fluid on the caliper and the back of dust sheild. Repeat on other side.
Once you have finished bleeding, fill up the master cylinder and put the cap back on. After double checking everything (i.e. bleeder screws are closed and everythings tight), get inside and press the pedal down. The pedal will more than likely go straight to the floor. Let up and allow pedal to come back. Then re-apply and repeat. The pedal should eventually get strong again. If the pedal does not get back to normal, check everything again and make sure you tightened everything properly. You may need to bleed the system another way if this happens:
Normal Bleeding Procedures (you will need another person):
Get someone inside the vehicle and pump up the brakes as much as possible (3-4 pumps) and then open one of the bleeder screws (usually starting from front left and doing the Z as described above). Allow fluid to come out and then close after 1-2 seconds or until pedal is fully depressed. Close off the bleeder screw and tell the person inside to pump the pedal back up. Do this atleast 3-4 times on each wheel. If the problem does not go away, you have a leak in the system that needs to be repaired to seal the braking system.
After the wheels are put back on and are torqued to 100 ft. lbs, take the vehicle for a test drive. DO NOT slam on the brakes immediately. Ease the brake job into working conditions. Do atleast 10 30mph-0mph brake stops. Do not slam on the brakes, slowly depress the pedal to a complete stop. This will allow the pads to wear in properly and will most likely keep you from having brake noise.
That's it -- Hope that will help. It's really not that hard. For the first timer,I would allow 3-4 hours for the job. You will get better once you do it more often. Good luck.