Engine out, now what. Advice Please

jwrezz · April 22, 2008

Some Final Parts before inspection

So I got a new Flaming river steering shaft, and Black Magic Electric fan to install before this thing gets finalized. Here's some pics of them...

This stuff, a few bolts, and vacuum lines re-attached, and I'm good to go! Inspection is due in May! I really need to get into the woods w/ this thing!

CDW6212R · April 22, 2008

Ah, clean parts are so much more fun to work on. Curious, what is that steering shaft for, is it a bolt in, or for a body lift? I ask because the stock shaft is in the way for 302 headers. Regards,

jwrezz · April 22, 2008

My stock shaft was a bit beat up (the u-joint), plus I didn't dig the extension being there. I'd read that Flaming River was the way to go, costly, but it's so pretty and extends/retracts so smoothly! It's a bolt in, but the length is made for me. I measured from rack to column's end, and supplied the end connection info and they made me this. As far as interference w/ the headers for the 302, I'd have no info. I gots the 4.0 OHV. Do have the BBK headers, but no clearance issues.

CDW6212R · April 22, 2008

They are nice parts, I just haven't looked hard yet at making headers. If the steering shaft was off to the side more it would help.

May I suggest that you contact Jame here about your PCM tuning. I don't know what happens if you lose the flasher, plus the OEM program stored in it. You should need a new program for that engine when you finish though. Good luck,

mshuler009 · May 6, 2008

I was looking at a similar post for the sohc and it took over 2 grand to do a good rebuild. How much was this one (with the fan and all)

jwrezz · May 6, 2008

W/ the fan, and steering shaft, that added $600 to the cost. Before that, just the engine rebuild, machine work and parts totaled $2,300. So my total was $2900. It all depends on what you need. I needed new pistons/ rods for the over bore. Still to me it was well worth it. I have a much better performing 4.0 OHV and didn't have to go thru the hassle of matching computers, etc. to a different engine. That was the big deal. If could've kept every thing except the engine, and just shoved a V8 or SOHC engine in there I would've. I'm sure total expense w/ a v8 swap would've been over $3000. I mean I wouldn't take a tired old v8, I'd want a decent one that needed a rebuild, and then built it right. I already had this block, and now it's built RIGHT.

jwrezz · May 6, 2008

By the way, I'm gonna post new, but I'm having some serious issues w/ the tuning of this engine. I have a Bama Chips tune for 87 octane in the thing from when it was the old engine. I have no CEL, but it won't idle well. Some times up to 2500 rpm, some times it just hovers around stalling, rarely it does actually stall. I'm hoping it's just the computer learning it's new things, but could the over bore really cause this much trouble? I'd put the stock tune back in, but I can't. The SCT tuner was stolen out of my garage. I've been in touch w/ Doug, and he is looking for a used one that he can put a stock tune on, but until then, I just may have to pony up and buy a new one. I know it prob'ly needs plugs, but no CEL tells me that it's not misfiring. Maybe the MAF is dirty? maybe the IAC is shot? I unplugged it once to check, and the thing died so I know it's working, just maybe not properly? Thanx for any help!

CDW6212R · May 6, 2008

I'd suggest working on the tune up items, like you have. Then work on a new tune, there is likely much to gain. What is the compression ratio now? If it is high enough like the SOHC, you might do better to tune to 89 octane fuel. The higher compression works more efficiently with better gas.

jwrezz · May 7, 2008

Actually, I really couldn't tell ya the compression ratio. I gotta find that out from the builder. And I'll do plugs, wires, clean maf, maybe clean or replace the IAC in the coming days. Thanx again,

Cobraguy · May 12, 2008

You know, I would shut that thing down and I wouldn't turn the key on it again until I got a tune I knew was safe. By looking at the pictures of your piston, that motor detonated itself to death. I could tell better if I could see the piston out of the block with the rings removed, but everything I see says severe detonation. Do NOT run your new engine with that tune! Start from scratch. Better yet, get it to a tuner with a dyno so they can read your a/f ratios as changes are made. Seriously. Good way to flush $2500.

Rods are usually easy to determine if they are on correct. Which direction is the bevel clearance facing? Rods and bearings are designed so that there is clearance for the radius in the crank. They must be facing that way. It's not unusual for the motor to be locked up if they're in backwards...but not necessarily.

As to your idle issues, sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. Did you leave something disconnected somewhere? Rolling idles from Ford are a common problem...but that's extreme.

jwrezz · May 12, 2008

Well, I know the tune is ok. The problem was from a lean condition in the one cyl. The rest was fine. I had no detonation until that one day (when the injector prob'ly failed) and I burnt it up. But since this rebuild on the other hand, I'm not so sure that my CPS was installed correctly and right now the idle problems are leading me to believe that is what's causing it. I've been all over the vacuum lines and can't find a leak any where. I started another thread regarding this stuff and my questions. Here's the link.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=215023

Thanx so much for the input, I need all the help I can get, and I'm not gonna be running it until I know about the CPS alignment. BTW, any one know of a thread on here about this CPS alignment process for the 4.0 OHV? There's tons of info on the 5.0 v8, but I can't find one on the 4.0 OHV. Thanx again,

Cobraguy · May 15, 2008

Camshaft Position Sensor alignment is done just like the 5.0 on a pushrod 4.0...except the alignment tool points backwards instead of forward. Install it so the arrow on the tool is parallel with the centerline of the engine and pointing backwards. Oh yes...very important, duh! The engine must be on TDC compression for the #1 cylinder.

jwrezz · May 15, 2008

I've also heard something about it (the alignment tool) pointing back and a bit to the passenger side. If you're sure it's straight back, then I'll try it. But I ask again, has any one done this on an installed and fully assembled engine? Or am I gonna be yanking the intake again? This along w/ some other questions here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=215023
I hope I can get it to the builder and just have him do it, but that's doubtful. Thanx much,

Cobraguy · May 16, 2008

You know, I took that information straight out of a factory service manual. But it was for a '99 pushrod 4.0...not a '96. So I went to my '95 manual and it was a California only deal in that year and it's a different process. So I need to beg off and would suggest you get a hold of a factory manual for your '96 and follow that information. I apologize for the confusion.

Also, you should be able to perform this with the engine in the car. I'm not sure if you will have to remove an intake, etc. Also, piston location is critical to the installation. Make sure you have that correct.

jwrezz · May 16, 2008

Pull the #1 Plug; turn the crank till I start to feel compression w/ my finger over the plug hole; stick a ke-bob skewer in the hole and watch the thing come out the hole as I keep turning the crank; if it starts to go down, back it up a bit! Hopefully this all will line up on the crank position markers, right?

CDW6212R · May 16, 2008

John that's it, and hold the item straight in the hole, not at an angle to be crushed. That's why I prefer a 3/8" socket extension, it goes in fairly tight/straight.

jwrezz · May 28, 2008

OK, I found a problem before I got to the CMP sensor. And I think this is the cause of every thing. The CMP is prob'ly fine. My EGR tube into the upper intake is leaking. Like it isn't in all the way. Any one have any experience w/ this thing? It looks like there's an o-ring on the end of the tube where it goes into the upper intake, but it isn't in all the way. I'll try and get a pic and post here. Thanks y'all!

jwrezz · May 29, 2008

OK, ripped off the upper intake, and put that tube in the right way! Now it runs like a champ! Gotta get a tune, although it seems fine right now. Just to make sure I'm getting the most out of it! Thanks for all the help and suggestions along the way. It's been a long 1.5 years!

jwrezz · May 30, 2008

So here's some pics. In the first if you look closely, you can see the egr tube not quite seated all the way.

In the next, the upper intake has been removed, or lifted a bit so I can reseat the tube.

And the last one, how it should look.

Now it runs like a champ! Already put 50miles on it! Inspection in a few hours. Hope she passes!

CDW6212R · May 30, 2008

Very good John, now you have it licked, keep it going.

Engine out, now what. Advice Please

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