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98 explorer oil in water

B

blus

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December 10, 2008
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City, State
southaven.ms
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 sport
i replaced the head gaskets checked the heads. compression is fine on 4-6, 1 = 120, 2=90, 3=60. misses on cyl 3. before the repl., i had water in oil coming through #6.now i have oil in water. no oil in water before. tranny is freshly replaced. any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 



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Oh Boy! Re-torque the head.
 






you might also want to think about a new motor. water in the oil could mean cracked block.
 






If you torqued the gasket correctly the first time, and had the head milled and checked for cracks (magnafluxed or whatever) then it's the block..


...of course a cracked block is very unlikely, so my guess is you didn't check out the heads when you had them off, and one has a crack or is warped.
 






Odd that the problem is on the opposite side now. Even if he cleaned out the oil and water he could still have been some trapped in the system somewhere.

The compression tells a story though. Before a complete tear down I would re-torque that head and check compression as easy as it is to do.
 






I retorqued the heads to spec. No headbolts were low. If I remove only that head, and find the problem with the head, should I retorque both heads from scratch to properly set the torque for intake man.?
I've also heard that if I pressurize the low cyl., I may see a leak somewhere around the head.
 






Hind sight is 20/20. If I were to go through all that trouble I would take the heads to the machine shop for valve rebuild, magnafluxing and planning if necessary. I don't know if any bolts protrude into a water jacket on yours but there is a sealant for that.

I'm not sure how to know for sure if the low compression cylinders is head related or ring related at this point. Before you get started you can put oil in the spark plug hole to create a temporary seal around the piston ring and do a quick compression check.

If the compression improves then you have a bad ring. If it stays the same then it's in the head. Then continue from scratch from there.

How bad did the engine overheat when you discovered that the head gasket was bad? Hot enough to burn the engine oil? If so there could be substantial engine damage.

Some junk yards will sell you an engine cheap if you pull it. You may have to tip thier fork lift guy.
 






blus said:
I retorqued the heads to spec. No headbolts were low. If I remove only that head, and find the problem with the head, should I retorque both heads from scratch to properly set the torque for intake man.?
I've also heard that if I pressurize the low cyl., I may see a leak somewhere around the head.
Click to expand...


You do not need to fuss with the good head when bolting the other back on. the intake manifold torque is set by its own bolts.
 






It's been a while. Some freinds put two more engines in this truck. The first was bad. The second ran fine until the radiator leaked water and the motor overheated. This time it runs pretty good but there's water in the oil. Not oil in the water. If the block checks out I want to install new heads. I'm open for suggestions about where to get them. Are new heads from J & C good quality. They are supposed to be thicker in the right places.This engine does not smoke at all, and it ran great until the leaky radiator.
 






Is this a ohv ?
 












Also i would double check the lower intake bolts first.
 






thanks I'll check the manifold. I had my suspicions. I might as well chk compression, first on this engine. I ran it for a few mins, sounds good, even after it warms up to radiator pressure. No tailpipe smoke just a small amount of what seems to condensation from the cat.
 






by the way, this is 98 4.0 ohv vinx
 






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