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P0442 code question

laneo9417

Active Member
Joined
June 12, 2012
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City, State
MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT
So I was cruising down the highway last night when the check engine light came on. I pulled into Autozone and borrowed their OBD tool and got the P0442 code. I’m thinking (and hoping) that this is just a gas cap/filler neck issue because the truck is idling fine with no noticeable changes in the ride. The gas cap is the original but the rubber seal looks fine (there are no cracks and it's not warped or anything) and it clicks and locks into place normally. The filler neck is also the original but it does have a decent amount of rust, including around the outside of the neck where the cap locks in. I’ve done a fair share of research on this topic this morning but I still have a couple questions because I have seen conflicting answers:

Can the code be cleared without an OBD tool, such as disconnecting the battery? I would like to try this first to see if I can get the check engine light to stay off (hoping it was just a loose gas cap that triggered the code).

If the check engine light stays on (or comes back on) would it be fair to say that a small crack or hole in the filler neck is to blame given the truck is running completely normal? I’ve seen filler necks for sale on 1Aauto and Rockauto fairly cheap, and they seem relatively easy to replace.

Any help is appreciated.
 



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So I was cruising down the highway last night when the check engine light came on. I pulled into Autozone and borrowed their OBD tool and got the P0442 code. I’m thinking (and hoping) that this is just a gas cap/filler neck issue because the truck is idling fine with no noticeable changes in the ride. The gas cap is the original but the rubber seal looks fine (there are no cracks and it's not warped or anything) and it clicks and locks into place normally. The filler neck is also the original but it does have a decent amount of rust, including around the outside of the neck where the cap locks in. I’ve done a fair share of research on this topic this morning but I still have a couple questions because I have seen conflicting answers:

Can the code be cleared without an OBD tool, such as disconnecting the battery? I would like to try this first to see if I can get the check engine light to stay off (hoping it was just a loose gas cap that triggered the code).

If the check engine light stays on (or comes back on) would it be fair to say that a small crack or hole in the filler neck is to blame given the truck is running completely normal? I’ve seen filler necks for sale on 1Aauto and Rockauto fairly cheap, and they seem relatively easy to replace.

Any help is appreciated.

a leak anywhere in the evap system can cause the code and that covers quite a bit of territory. if it does turn out to be the filler tube, i see them for sale on ebay, OE good used, rust-free for around $60.
 






quick way to check the gas caps seal to the filler neck is to put a very thin layer of petroleum jelly on the gas caps rubber seal and put the cap back on like normal. Then remove the gas cap and look on the filler neck to see if the jelly left a mark all the way around the neck. if it did your cap seal is ok if it didnt you need a new cap seal.
 






Appreciate the info. I'll try the petroleum jelly trick. If that isn't the cause how do I go about fixing this? I'm most likely going to get a new filler tube so do I clear the code first, install the new filler tube, then wait to see if the check engine light comes back on? Or will installing the new tube clear the check engine light automatically if indeed it is the cause?

Also, can the code be cleared without an OBD II scanner? I have been considering buying my own at Harbor Freight but if a battery disconnect can clear it then I may just stick with that.
 






Appreciate the info. I'll try the petroleum jelly trick. If that isn't the cause how do I go about fixing this? I'm most likely going to get a new filler tube so do I clear the code first, install the new filler tube, then wait to see if the check engine light comes back on? Or will installing the new tube clear the check engine light automatically if indeed it is the cause?

Also, can the code be cleared without an OBD II scanner? I have been considering buying my own at Harbor Freight but if a battery disconnect can clear it then I may just stick with that.

i think you should spend a little time trying to find the real problem. it might not be your filler neck. there's a line that goes to from your tank to the purge canister, located above the spare tire. there's a vacuum line that runs up to the engine compartment and goes to the purge solenoid, which is located under the battery. then there's a vacuum hose that runs to your intake manifold. a leak, or malfunction, anywhere in the evap system could be triggering your code. after checking your gas cap seal remove the filler neck and inspect it closely for any pin holes. i hate throwing money at a problem w/out determining what the issue is, but it's your money.
 






i think you should spend a little time trying to find the real problem. it might not be your filler neck. there's a line that goes to from your tank to the purge canister, located above the spare tire. there's a vacuum line that runs up to the engine compartment and goes to the purge solenoid, which is located under the battery. then there's a vacuum hose that runs to your intake manifold. a leak, or malfunction, anywhere in the evap system could be triggering your code. after checking your gas cap seal remove the filler neck and inspect it closely for any pin holes. i hate throwing money at a problem w/out determining what the issue is, but it's your money.

Well I have been considering replacing the filler neck for some time because it is pretty rusty and I have noticed more and more flakes up around the housing when I get gas. Plus it seems like a relatively cheap repair and gives me an excuse to tinker around on a Saturday :thumbsup: I plan on checking other possible issues too but figured I'd start with the filler tube.

How do I go about replacing this in regards to the clearing the check engine light?
 






I finally got to take a closer look at the cap and filler neck situation:


15405242512_5078efe90e.jpg



15405242642_4e97f73e2d.jpg



As you can see there is a slight crack on the left side. Is it possible that something that small could throw the code?
 






there are 2 hose clamps down near the tank and 3 screws up where the cap is. the clamps may be rusty. if necessary cut them off. a crack that small could set the CEL if air can leak in. once fixed the CEL should turn itself off eventually, or you can try disconnecting the battery for 15 mins.
 






If you are going to do your own work, an OBDII scanner to read and clear codes has become a necessary tool. Go on eBay and Amazon - I found some basic ones last year that were only $10-15; I bought three and put one in each car. I also have a better one that reads data real time and provides some other capabilities - I use it all the time on my own and on friend's vehicles. Good luck.
 






If you are going to do your own work, an OBDII scanner to read and clear codes has become a necessary tool. Go on eBay and Amazon - I found some basic ones last year that were only $10-15; I bought three and put one in each car. I also have a better one that reads data real time and provides some other capabilities - I use it all the time on my own and on friend's vehicles. Good luck.

Yea I'm probably going to pick up one up at Harbor Freight this weekend, they're pretty cheap and the reviews are positive. I figure it's a good tool to have for both of my cars.

Update on the code: I cleaned in and around the gas cap and filler neck the other day and yesterday morning before work I disconnected the battery for about 15 mins and haven't seen the code since. Granted my drive to work is under 10 miles one way so I don't know if this is because the system hasn't done another EVAP test yet but I guess I'll just have to wait and see.
 






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