supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · May 6, 2015

here is my attempt on the way i have it ran

the round things are the rotors for that extra touch at failed art class. the t fitting is before the rotors so it is on the intake side with the defp. also, this is looking at the back of the supercharger. it is very similar to what i had on the m90. it was running lumpier then the first time, but i thing that was because it was being over fueled
the bypass closes when the throttle is blipped.
just looked at my email. james sent a tune but with a rev limiter of 3500rpm. i will load it and send you a file john.

4pointslow · May 6, 2015

vacuum location

Vacuum locations look good, I forgot you added the Water Meth but it too has to be post blower which is where you have it.
If you did not already do it.... you could try pinching off the vacuum line to the purge valve (also called vapor management valve) (charcoal canister in your diagram) just to rule that out. If the purge valve was stuck open it would cause a drop in vacuum and make the vehicle run rich from sucking fuel fumes all the time. I am not betting on that one, but rule it out if you did not already.
I will keep an eye out for the next datalog.

4pointslow · May 6, 2015

datalog

I just looked at the log.
Looks better with the injector data corrected.
It is running rich at Idle and 2000 rpm's, may have to lower fuel pressure and/or retune the maf transfer function.

There is no indication of a vacuum leak looking at fuel trims.

If vacuum is still low make sure the purge valve is not stuck open.(doubt it)

If it is not stuck open my best guess is that the cam is mistimed like you and your buddy thought.

I am on my way to work so this is a rushed thought process.

Dono · May 6, 2015

<go to bed, assume fetal position>
:banghead:

vroomzoomboom · May 6, 2015

Dono said:
<go to bed, assume fetal position>

^^^NAILED IT!

delexploder · May 8, 2015

Any progress?

4pointslow · May 8, 2015

compression

It would be a good idea to see what compression readings look like when you are done and everything is running well. Just so you have something to reference to in the future with that engine having the compression ratio that it has.

Hoping all is going well!

vroomzoomboom · May 8, 2015

delexploder said:
Any progress?

not much. pulled the rad/fan, supercharger pulley bracket, water pump (which was way easier then i thought), rad hoses yesterday. i want to get the rest done, retimed, and back together today but its cold and crappy out so i have been putting it off. i guess i should drag myself out there and do it because it wont get done by itself.
john, i dont think the compression will change but you never know. guess if its worst i dun screwed up again.

4pointslow · May 8, 2015

compression

I was thinking the compression would drop to about 150-160.
I maybe way off though.

vroomzoomboom · May 8, 2015

things went pretty slowly. when i crawled under the truck, to my delight i discovered i had to drop the diff out of it to get all the pan bolts......wonderful....then because if it being cold out (around freezing) none of my air tools wanted to work, or barley. the impact had just enough to get the balancer bolt off. so after chain smoking for a few mins, i was able to get the pan down enough to get the timing cover off, and the balancer....but not before ripping the one peace pan gasket where the tabs go into the cover (might be able to reuse it, maybe). got the cover off, and if i am not wrong to my horror i swear both the cam, crank and gears were installed correctly!!!!!! this isnt good. i am having one of my buddys look at it, or put the chain and gears on for me tomorrow just so i know i didnt screw them up. if this doesnt work i have no idea what the hell i am going to do!

Dono · May 8, 2015

This is crazy.

The motor sucks air as its running, the throttle plate restricts air. There is vacuum in-between. That's it. A bit over simplified, but....

4pointslow · May 9, 2015

Cam timing

Take a picture of the cam/crank timing so you have it for reference.
Your buddy helped you degree it last time, how did you set it up this time?
I assume you have multiple key ways on the crank gear, make sure you have the right one.

vroomzoomboom · May 9, 2015

thats where i had it when i took it apart. i didnt have my buddy degree it in this time around, i put it in and ran with it. the red was where the crank key was.

Turdle · May 9, 2015

Ok, I am not a supercharger guy but at one time i wanted to be.

So, keeping this in mind, forgive me if this is a silly question but how much boost does the blower produce at idle? Is it enough to overcome vacuum? Is this why some guys run vacuum pumps?

Seems to me if the blower is spinning, and the vacuum gauge sender is downstream of the charger, you would not see vacuum.

Another possibility would be if the vacuum gauge sender line was collapsing under vacuum. Silicone lines will do this.

Or, the vacuum gauge could be malfunctioning.

vroomzoomboom · May 9, 2015

at idle the supercharger makes no boost. the bypass valve is open. when you load the motor, the valve closes then you start making boost. the boost vacuum gauge is after the rotors so it can read both boost and vacuum.
i am ruling out any problems with the gauge for the reason i have no power brakes

Turdle · May 9, 2015

Silly question 2

Does vacuum hold bypass valve open? Oh jeez, now I am going in circles.

vroomzoomboom · May 9, 2015

vacuum holds it open. and i know what your going to say next. the motor makes at idle enough vacuum to spin the rotors even if the belt is off (had to do it once, didnt know that till then either). when you stomp on it, thats when the rotors spin faster then the motor sucks air in. then it is in boost, and not vacuum. when the vacuum drops, it closes the valve allowing you to make full boost.
i hope i explained it right, and not sound like a idiot who thinks he knows everything..

4pointslow · May 9, 2015

vroomzoomboom said:
thats where i had it when i took it apart. i didnt have my buddy degree it in this time around, i put it in and ran with it. the red was where the crank key was.

When it was degreed did you guys end up using the 0?

vroomzoomboom · May 9, 2015

We did. I didn't want to advance the cam because I didn't know if I would have detonation problems or not and I also did not want to have gobs of bottom end and no top-end and vice versa

CDW6212R · May 9, 2015

I wish you had it running right again now, and I've been reading this intently, but I haven't had any better suggestions.

So everything done and asked seems logical. I'd say slowly put it back together, figure the cam is right, and concentrate on the intake and blower mounting. Do that again really carefully and make sure that every surface is sealing properly to the mating parts. Look for any signs of warpage etc. Hopefully somewhere in there is a place where the intake volume has been leaking.

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