Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

Completed and primed cross member:


Cross member and skid plate:



It took me about six hours today to get them finished. Mount the plate, check the angles, remove plate, adjust angles, mount plate, check bolt holes, remove plate, adjust bolt holes, tack in plate supports, mount plate, remove plate, finish weld supports, check fit, remove plate, adjust bolt holes again, remove cross member, finish weld, clean up with wire wheel and flap disk, paint...............

Looks good Brian.

That looks sweet!

Skid plate / cross member, DONE!!

Right side cross member mount


Left side (you can see the cross member snaking between the exhaust and the trans adapter)


Covered!


Don't want to get much tighter than that


I don't think I want to tackle the rear shock mounts before Truckhaven. Thought I might just take a tape measure while I am out on the trail and get all the measurements for new mounts while I wheel.

Looks like it turned out great

I have a post in the first page of this thread with stuff I don't need anymore. I have gotten rid of most of it, but here are some things I don't want in my shed as it has enough stuff I can't use. PM me an offer, but I would really like trades. I can deliver if you are coming to Truckhaven next month.

-Stock 1976 Dana 44 3:50 gears and carrier (open), look really good but condition unknown.

-1976 F-150 stock steering, complete, but a little rusty.

-1976 F-150 Dana 44 right (long) side axle shaft, good condition.

-1991 - 94 Explorer rear cargo retractable cover, tan. Excellent condition. Has been sitting in my garage for the past ten years.

-Stock 1991 - 94 Explorer air intake with K&N filter. Mostly complete intake, minus the rubber gasket to the throttle body as it fell apart, the pre-heater stuff, and the vacuum line mounts for the pre-heater. It has a bunch of holes cut in the filter box that you can't see when installed for better air flow.

Rick said:

Looks like it turned out great

Click to expand...

Thanks.

I have been looking at it to see if I can support the mid-point of the plate, but don't think its worth the effort. I can support the passenger side, but towards the front, as I have to avoid the exhaust and the radius arms. Can't support the driver side, there is just no room up there to go around the drive shaft and make something strong enough to be worth while. Think it would be better to let the plate flex than take a chance of a support buckling and damaging the transmission linkage, the drive shaft, or the exhaust. I think the plate will do what it was intended; protect the transmission pan, the exhaust and the rear transmission mounts. The cross brace was going to be added regardless of a skid plate so I could have frame support every few feet up front.

Rear shock mounts.

1) I have a bunch of 1x2" 1/8" wall rectangular tubing lying around. Would that be sufficient for rear shock mounts? I personally think it might be a little thin. It basically has to go straight up from the inside of the frame about 6-8". It will be welded flat against the cut off ends of the old 2x2" 3/16" wall cross member/shock mount. Then, 90* across the width of the frame as far outward as possible. The shock mounts will be welded 90* to the underside of the cross piece.

If its not beefy enough, I will go pick up some thicker square tubing that will fit inside the cut off ends of the old shock mount/cross member. Have to cut it out first to see what thickness tubing its made from. From the outside, it looks like 1/4" based upon the way the corners are rounded.
Pic of the old mounts/cross member to make it easy to reference;


2) I am going to go 90* with the shocks to the axle this time, but angled back to get the most out of them. The shocks will function much better this way. You fellas think I should go with a single shock on each side first, then if its not enough add the second? It would be easier to add another set of mounts than the reverse. I also want to stick with the shocks I have now since they are in great shape and plenty long.

I won't say mine is right by anymeans. But just for reference if interested, this is what I did... "right" would've been standing them up and mounting the upper mount inside the cab. I didn't want to do that though.






My cross piece is a 2 piece bolt in type deal. I don't remember what tubing I used, it's for sure .120W DOM but it could be 1.75" or 2" diameter. Considering the shock is 2.5", I'm guessing I used some 2" I had laying around. Also, there's a nut welded inside the plate inside the tube for a 2nd bolt and once completely welded up and finished, I drilled a 3rd hole. There's 3 bolts thru the plate on each side holding it to the frame rails. It unclamps into two pieces in the center though so that I can get it in and out of there.

Not sure if this little video will work or not...

http://vid67.photobucket.com/albums/h315/sirhk100/Expo/100_1487_zps3f49a954.mp4

Thanks. I am going to go up to about an inch from the floor so I don't have to lean the shocks very far back. Plus I am using shorter shocks.

Sent from my XT907 using Forum Runner

Yeah, I want to say I'm about an inch or so from the floor also from memory but the long shocks to get the most out of them, had to lay them back pretty excessively. I'm running some pretty substantial valving in them and next time they come apart, they're going even stiffer...

Your still running spring under. My SOA set up gives me more room between the axle and the floor. You get more spring, I get more clearance.

Ahhhhhhhh, very correct!

Hey Brian- I am moving my axle mounts in on my front end and I am thinking of compensating for caster at the same time. What bushings did you end up going with? What did you want? It seems like you couldn't get enough?

Kirby N. said:

Hey Brian- I am moving my axle mounts in on my front end and I am thinking of compensating for caster at the same time. What bushings did you end up going with? What did you want? It seems like you couldn't get enough?

Click to expand...

I answered on your build thread.

Thank you!

Today before I tackled the wheel bearings (noticed a little play), I decided to straighten out the steering wheel. It has been off-center since I changed out the steering gear box. I am trying to loosen the jam nuts on the drag link and the top one is difficult. I am sitting cross legged in front of the Explorer. I bear down on it with my upper body and, well anyone who has messed with jam nuts knows how they let go. Bam, my face slams into the frot bumper of the Explorer, right in the left eye area, full force. I see stars and spend a few minutes on my back on the garage floor. then I notice my nose is bleeding, even though I did not hit my nose. Luckily, I had on a pair of cheap plastic 1 power glasses and it seemed to absorb some of the impact. I have a lovely ring of redness and swelling around my eye now and I might have given myself a minor concussion (felt unsteady). Gave up on the Explorer, ice bag, took a Motrin, went to sleep for a few hours, felt better and went back at it. Got the steering straight and the wheel bearings repacked. Have a feeling I am going to wake up to a black eye tomorrow. All the times I have taken one to the head, I never felt that much of a hit before.

Edit: Yep, black eye. Not bad though, just a small darkness near the nose and a red ring around the inside of my eyebrow.

Ouch, hate when that happens. Just a black eye isn't to bad. Could always be worse.

turboexplorer said:

Ouch, hate when that happens. Just a black eye isn't to bad. Could always be worse.

Click to expand...

True. At first it knocked me so silly, and the blood pouring out of my nose from the sinus cavity, I thought I might have fractured my orbital socket. I know I did not because there is hardly any pain today. Its already more purple than black. Full on Homer Simpson moment...Doooooohhhhh!!!

fun stuff!