Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

I'll have to peak and see if it was my expo or if it was my F150 but I'm pretty sure it was one of those. Either way, was just a thought, wasn't sure if it was even feasible...

I think the gear boxes are the same for a bunch of Ford trucks. I would replace the box, but I just don't want to spend the money when its not necessary. Box I have now doesn't have hardly any slop. The heli-coil kit was $22.39, versus a $150 for a quality reman box.

If interested, the bolt size is 7/16 x 14 for the steering gear box mounts. Did not end up getting longer bolts, just thinner washers.

The heli-coil idea did not work out. The bolt hole was ovaled-out already and after drilling, I could not get the tap to go in straight. It also has a slight leak at the column shaft that I did not notice before. I ordered a new (reman) gear box.

Having the column out is giving me ideas. I got FR-425 to send me a Jeep steering column, the type with the double U-joints instead of rag joints like on the Explorer. I am thinking about creating a hybrid column with the ends from the Explorer and the center section with the double U-joints. I will look it over and take some measurements this weekend.

No way to get a nut in there and just pull it together tight?

BKennedy said:

The heli-coil idea did not work out. The bolt hole was ovaled-out already and after drilling, I could not get the tap to go in straight. It also has a slight leak at the column shaft that I did not notice before. I ordered a new (reman) gear box.

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At least that is a common box, used on rangers, explorers, full size pickups and even the vans. Our X has one from a 1991 e-150 right now.

~Mark

Rick said:

No way to get a nut in there and just pull it together tight?

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Nope. I can get a nut on the other two bolts with longer bolts, but there is no room on the back of that one. I got longer grade 8 bolts and some thin lock nuts for the other two. The other two bolt holes' threads were messed up and when I ran a tap through them to clean them up, it was not as tight as I would have liked. There is a considerable amount of force applied on those bolts / holes, and if I don't trust them I worry. I ordered the new box and with discounts, it was about $100 so no huge expense, just un-expected. I ran a tap through the bolt hole so it looks like it will take a bolt for the core return.

If anyone needs a heli-coil kit for 7/16 - 14 bolts, don't buy it, I have the kit.

Mark; Very common box, but the prices have gone way up since the last time I needed one. Junk yards around here are not worth the time and effort. They expect about 75% of new parts prices, so they are sniffing way too much motor oil. I don't usually get JY parts that wear out as I have not had good luck with them. Usually end up with one that is worse off than what I am replacing.

Entirely different subject: I know there are a bunch of threads about this, but I wanted the opinions of people who read this thread. I am going to be changing the oil soon, and noticed that my oil pressure gauge seems to drop to nothing, then go back to normal every so often. I think its electrical, but there is a possibility the pickup line is partially clogged in the pan. I was thinking about dumping a can of Seafoam in the oil and running it for 20 minutes before I drain it, and sucking another can up into the vacuum system. The engine has never had any type of cleaner in it besides the detergents in the oil and it has 167000 on the odometer. Engine runs very strong and smooth, but its the only part of the drivetrain that has not been replaced or rebuilt. Is there any negatives to doing this??

I have tried the sea foam in the engine once. It didn't do any harm, or good for that matter.

My fear with the sea foam engine treatment is, if it is ran too long, it breaks down the oil too much and well, we know that ain't any good. Problem is, trying to figure out how long to run it before you freak out and drain it. I was scared, and drained it pretty fast after mixed reviews on here about the time/mileage to leave it in. Was one of my very first threads here years ago. I haven't tried it since. :smokinfro

I was thinking of pouring 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the brake booster line and the other 1/3 in the tank, then driving it around until it quits smoking, taking it home and changing the oil.

Had a good day. Went to the auto parts store where I purchased the new remanufactured steering gear box. Manager was in, looked up old box bought there in 2002 and asked why I purchased another when it was under a lifetime warranty. Because your employee could not find it in the system when I called about it, that is why. He took the core as a return, so I got a free steering gear box.
Then, while the manager was checking out the Explorer in the parking lot, a friend of his who does windshield repair walked by and asked about the large crack in my windshield. He fixed it for $20 after I told him I did not care about the crack, just did not want to have to replace the windshield. Gave me a guarantee it would not get any longer.

Excellent luck on both accounts

BKennedy said:

I was thinking of pouring 1/3 in the oil, 1/3 in the brake booster line and the other 1/3 in the tank, then driving it around until it quits smoking, taking it home and changing the oil.

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You are a brave man. I have a bottle of snake oil you are welcome to try too.

I think I figured out why BC Broncos just used a "safety washer" instead of a misalignment bushing on their steering. Its to keep the rod ends from shifting over when you turn the wheel to the right. It makes a thump sound / feel through the wheel and I was concerned until I had my Dad turn the wheel while I looked for the noise maker. No biggie now that I know what it is.

Also did the Seafoam treatment today. I dumped 1/3 can into the oil filler, and let the brake booster suck up 1/3. Let it sit for five minutes, then run for 15 minutes and it did not smoke like all the videos on youtube show. I checked the oil color before and after and it did turn the oil black, so I guess it cleaned something out of the engine. Drained, changed the oil.

Did the sea foam help the oil pressure gauge issue? Is this still the factory in dash oil pressure gauge? If so, I would suspect the oil pressure sending unit is going bad.

4pullingGM said:

Did the sea foam help the oil pressure gauge issue? Is this still the factory in dash oil pressure gauge? If so, I would suspect the oil pressure sending unit is going bad.

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I have not really driven it around to see if the gauge is working all the time. Its a intermittent issue. While I am out driving around, it will just drop to zero for a bit, then go right back up to its normal reading. I don't think that gauge does much. In reading my electrical manual, it is a open / closed circuit. "Normal" oil pressure, closed. "Low" oil pressure, circuit open. There is no real pressure reading.

Here's an oldie but goody thread about converting the factory on off gauge to a "real" gauge. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14894

Rick said:

Here's an oldie but goody thread about converting the factory on off gauge to a "real" gauge. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14894

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Thanks Rick. If I ever decide to pull the instrument cluster, I will do that.

Yeah, it's more of a pressure switch than a sending unit. I'm just kind of old fashioned with my terminologies.

LOL so I know you're past it but I happened to look last night, it was my F150 steering box I was able to do the thru bolt on with a lock nut... Not my explorer... Oh well though. Was worth the comment just in case it would've worked I suppose! LOL

Should be the same box. One of the three bolt holes would allow a nut on the outside. One other would allow a nut with a little trimming. The third would require a bunch of trimming, which would weaken the mount so much that I could not trust it to hold. Guess which one stripped? Yep, the third one.

4pullingGM said:

Did the sea foam help the oil pressure gauge issue? Is this still the factory in dash oil pressure gauge? If so, I would suspect the oil pressure sending unit is going bad.

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Went out on a solo day trip today to Pancake Rock Trail. Noticed the oil pressure "gauge" went up with the key, then down to the "N" in normal after start. It used to sit in towards the center of normal. I think the Sea Foam might have shifted some sludge around and killed the sending unit. I will eventually get a different sender.

I am so pleased with the SAS.

Today's Poser Shots:
Going up..trail entrance


Coming back down I tried the hardest line I could find that was relatively safe and got some good flex

Faithful dog photo-bombing my poser shot. These are about five feet forward of the last shot


Notice the limit strap is not straight yet (sorry for the crappy pic)


My front and rear fender trimming, and adjusting of the front bump stops seems to be dialed-in. No rubbing, clanging, etc.