A/C works on High only

I recently had a new a/c compressor installed but after a few weeks I only now have full blown air. It works on High at max a/c, a/c, and it blows only high when in plain air mode.

If I turn it to any of the other 3 settings it turns almost completely off. very little it blowing if really any.

any Ideas???

If you are saying that the fan only works in the high setting, the thermal fuse in the resistor assembly has blown. This is there to protect the speed resistors from overheating and causing a fire. Thermal fuse is not in series with high speed setting. This thermal fuse will blow if air is blocked or the motor has increased drag because of bearings. This fuse looks like a metal diode in the resistor pack. This same device is used in coffee pots and hair dryers and is available at most Radio Shacks for $2. Leads must be heat sunk with a pliars if you solder. Heat from soldering will blow it before power is even applied. If you are off site as they say, It can be jumpered with extreme caution (or use a section of solder). The normal fan fuse will not offer protection from meltdown.

I haven't had to take a peek at mine, but:
The blower motor resistor(s) are used to step down power to the blower motor (low to med switch settings only). The High setting has no step down and sends 100% power directly to the fan (circumventing the resistors). As such this is why you have High and nothing else.

I'm trying to understand...It's just not going well.

1) how did this happen or what caused it to happen?
2) how can I prevent it from happening again?
3) I don't mind the full A/C since its around 110' now but I don't want to overload or prematurely wear something out.
4) I don't fully understand the fix?
5) is it a quick part change, fuse change, or is it something so send it to the shop for?

Sorry for the confussion. The blower motor resistor(s) can blow anytime just like a filament in a light bulb. Once 1 goes the others usually go in rapid succession. The fix outlined by Operahouse assumes the thermal resistor (a component of the resistor pack) has worn out. The thermal resistor kills power to the blower whenever it reaches its threshold value. In my experience (having replaced 4 of them in different vehicles) I would just replace the entire blower motor resistor. The blower motor resistor is $13 At www.rockauto.com

Thanks for all the help !

I replaced my Blower Moter Resistor 50SR or $13, that fixed the problem, the old one was sooo rusty don't know how it worked so long.

Changing it was really easy, once I found it! I found it easier to partially remove the Air Intake, unbolt the Wiper fluid & Anti-freeze overflow containers then it was a cake walk. Remembered to recheck everything 4-5time to make sure it was all reconnected.

Works awesome thanks again to Opera House & DeRocha . . .

Glad to see you fixed it...

Ok new problem, Sometimes I start the Explorer and NO A/C.
I go driving & it comes on after about 5-15 minutes.
When it's not working and I increase speed it will blow alittle but not alot. The faster I go the stronger it becomes. Even though its not alot it's still better than none. Of course waiting for a light NO Air. With temperatures soon to reach 120'f + I hope I can fix this soon...

I don't mind so much I can wait it out & use the window...
The wife is now 28 weeks Pregnant and she really feels the heat...

HELP I need peace of mind (Mostly from her)

I was thinking maybe the Blow Motor has gone South -OR- maybe the Blow Motor Resister could have failed.

Sounds like a loose wire going to the blower motor or restitor pack..The AC is working fine (cooling) but the fan is not blowing any air.. If you keep the air blend in Normal (any settnig other than Max AC) then outside air will flow across the evaporator and cool of the cabin (that is why whe faster you drive the more air is felt). MAX AC just shuts off the outside air so the system only has to cool the interior space (generally used to initially coold the vehicle). The next time the fan doesn't work try hitting some speed bumps or something similiar to jiggle the loose wires back together...

Time to get out a test light. The pink/white wire of the motor should have power on it all the time the key is in run. If not, the fan relay may be bad. The other side of the motor is orange/black going to resistor pack. This and all the resistors are switched to ground. You should be able to jumper the O/BK wire to ground and get the motor to run if the key is on. Switch could have a bad ground connection or the motor just bad (this took out the first resistor pack). There is also a chance you bumped a vacuum line and the blower is working, but the vents remain closed.

Any updates?

Sorry its been awhile my computer has been down for awhile.

Thanks for all the help!

I found out when I knocked on the blow motor with my handy dandy Leatherman Super Tool that it would start. It worked for awhile then it would slow up, then it would only work when in motion.

Bought a new blow motor, installed it (Very easy). Works awesome now.

With Temps reaching 125'f + I'm now very happy, The wife is also much happier now. Now we get to go Baby shopping.

Wifes due October 15th, Baby Girl !!!!!!!!

I've got the exact same problem with the blower motor! My wife has commanded me to fix it.

My blower motor isn't making any noise and when it does decide to come on, it sounds and works fine.

What do you recommend for my problem....replace the blower motor?

To find out if it is in fact the blow motor!
Open the hood, open your passanger door or window and with one hand over the vent (with a/c switch on) hit the motor with a hammer or plyers you really don't need to dent the motor just hit it until it starts blowing. This worked on mine for a about a week then it more or less stopped and would only then work when the truck was moving.

I changed the blow motor in about 15-20 minutes very easy to do...Works awesome now. Price was about $80 +or-..

I tried the banging on the blower trick, no luck. I used my voltmeter and there's no voltage in the wires that connect to the motor.

Back to square 1! As I recall the banging on the motor trick did work on an old dodge colt I had about 20 years ago. This has got to be a wierd computer problem.

You could try pulling it out when I did mine was stiff to turn but I has some mesh like, cloth like stuff coming out the sides.

It also smelled kind of off. Burntish kind of smell. with it out you could try to make it run that way and see. How long has yours been out. Mine went from first notice until I changed it in about a week and at that point I was really hitting it hard in fact I was denting up the motor housing. If yours was out longer I wouldn't be surprised if it had gone south...