Fixing a leaky Windshield seal (pictures)

DeRocha · October 19, 2004

I used a window scrapper (the kind that takes razor blades) to remove all of the window sealant from the lip. The sides and bottom lip were in very good condition and required minimal attention. I used a grinder with a wire wheel to remove most of the rust damage. A sander will work, but tends to remove too much of the GOOD metal as it levels the surface. I then used a sandblaster to remove ALL the rust. A sandblaster is ideal because it gets into all the areas other tools can't reach. As you can see in the following pics it has opened up various pits and pin holes. You can now easily see the ones that have rusted through.

DeRocha · October 19, 2004

I then primed all surfaces with 2 coats of POR-15 . Primed and ready for Fiberglass.

While the last coat was still slightly tacky I installed some fiberglass cloth and formed it to the shape of the lip.

Here is a picture of the lower lip after being primed. You can see the little pins that hold the molding clips (not pictured).

I then let the POR-15 dry (about 4 hours since it was applied). I then Mixed up a batch of Fiberglass resin (I used a thicker gel version to prevent drips) over the cloth. This worked great and I could see the pits and holes soak up the fiberglass. After about 25 minutes I used a sanding block to sand the fiberglass repair smooth. I then mixed up some body filler and applied it to level off the repair.

I then sanded everything down and applied a final coat of body filler to skim coat any defects I had missed. More sanding, More sanding.

*96*X · October 19, 2004

that looks good!

nice write up. so i take it your windshield is fixed for good. how long did it take you? post pics of it when its finished.

DeRocha · October 19, 2004

Finally I applied 2 coats of POR-15 over everything.

The installer came on Monday and was impressed at how well everything came out. He said the uniform surface will create an awesome seal. He was able to breeze through the installation without any difficulty. I have now gone through several rain storms to date with NO Leaks. I am just a regular DIY guy and not a body man by any stretch of the imagination. While I have confidence my repair will last, I make no claims in its beauty factor... I give credit to all body men & women as blending a repair to be seamless and unnoticeable is truly an art. Fortunately for me I have a 12yr old moving canvas to practice on.

DeRocha · October 19, 2004

The entire job took me a weekend working at leisurely pace. One whole day was spent on rust removal (using wire wheels, a Sander, and sandblasting). The second day was spent Priming the repair, laying the fiberglass, laying body filler, and priming the whole thing. The quickest part was laying the fiberglass and body filler as they both harden quickly and can be sanded in 20-25min. The slowest part was waiting the 3-4 hours for each coat of Por-15 to dry.

blueox · October 21, 2004

Wow dude, I quess it's true.......You do hate rust!!!!

DeRocha · October 22, 2004

Yeah I hate rust, and will attack it on site (a benefit of having a 12yr old car). I don't worry about how it will look or resale value, I just know my repair is better than ignoring it and letting the whole thing rust out..

Brock94 · October 22, 2004

Hey DeRocha,

How did the windshield guy pop that lower trim piece off? I saw the pics on the other thread of the tabs that hold it in place, but I was wondering about technique (so as not to hurt it). Do I just start by prying up on one end and working toward the other? Any special tools for that?

Thanks for your help!

Glacier991 · October 22, 2004

Great post and a good job!

99SportX · October 22, 2004

Nice job, and great information.

DeRocha · October 23, 2004

Brock94 said:
Hey DeRocha,

How did the windshield guy pop that lower trim piece off? I saw the pics on the other thread of the tabs that hold it in place, but I was wondering about technique (so as not to hurt it). Do I just start by prying up on one end and working toward the other? Any special tools for that?

Thanks for your help!

Since the passenger side molding goes under the driver's side the guy started on the driver's side. He did have some thin removal tool, but It didn't look necessary at all (just more convienent). He only used the tool to initially pry up the molding so he could get a hold of it with his hands. After that he just pried up the molding and it came right out. He then removed the clips and rubber blocks and set them aside. The blocks are used to keep the windshied in position while the adhesive dries.

TravisC · October 23, 2004

Nice job.

I know this is off the subject but did you or do you have any rust on your rocker panels and/or dog legs? Since you hate rust. How did you repair them? I can't find 2 door dog legs anywhere.

Charlie's_93EB · November 3, 2004

awesome, but we have he befor and no after??? WTF???

by the way it looks great :thumbsup:

DeRocha · November 4, 2004

Here you go Charlie...Here is a picture with the new windshield installed. I actually didn't post a before picture since I was in a hurry to dig in and get it done...

Charlie's_93EB · November 4, 2004

that looks very very good, thanks

'96explorereddiebauer · November 4, 2004

Good job!!! It does demonstrated that you're good at bodywork. Congrats on your fix!!!

DeRocha · November 5, 2004

Thanks for the compliments. Here is my latest body repair attempt Rusted Wheel Well repair

savant · March 22, 2005

Hey DeRocha,

I've heard that POR15 doesn't do well under exposure to UV. How's this repair holding up under sunlight? Has it faded or whatnot? Or did you cover it with something to prevent exposure to UV?

DeRocha · March 22, 2005

I wanted to see how well it held up without top coating it. The product is fine, but the color fades with UV exposure (sort of like leaving pastic kids toys outside for a few months). I'll take some pics later when I get home.

Fixing a leaky Windshield seal (pictures)

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