Component Install pics

Component Install pics [Updated]

I finally got my new gear installed a couple weeks ago, it went smoothly and the end result turned out as good as I had hoped. I took some pics of the install to hopefully help some of you who might be thinking about a similar project.

What I started with:
-2004 Ex with basic audio system
-Panasonic CQ-9700U head unit

What went in:
-EFX 4 ga amp power kit
-2 sets of TMA twisted pair RCA's
-16 ga speaker wire direct from front speakers to amp
-Infinity 7541a 4 ch amp
-Boston Acoustics SL60 6.5" component speakers
-5x7 to 6.5" speaker adapter plates
-12 ga speaker wire from amp to sub
-Infinity Perfect 12.1 4-ohm sub in an EFX sealed box

First I ran my 4 ga amp wire through the hood release cable grommet under the dash, under the door sills and back to the 3rd row footwell area where my amp is. You can see the wire being fished through the grommet in this pic. I may elect to drill a new hole in the firewall for this wire in the near future as I am afraid the firewall may eventually chafe through the power wire. 8ga would probably be no problem.

[update: I did drill a new hole for the power wire right next to the grommet. Much easier than trying to share the original hole]



Next I pulled the front door panels and took out the stock speakers. I ran 16ga speaker wire from the door through the rubber boots, and back under the door sills to the amp. This avoided the need to splice into any of that thin gauge stock speaker wire.



On the bench I test mounted up the BA SL60 woofers to the adapter plates. I was very excited to get 6.5" front speakers put in, especially with basically no mods. The woofers fit right in to the adapter plate and I used the supplied 1/4" spacer. That assembly then bolted right in to the stock speaker mounting location.



I custom mounted the tweeters up on the top of the door panels using the supplied flush-mount cups. A dremel sanding drum made quick work of the door to provide the clearance hole for the tweeter cups. The quality of the clamping system from Boston was very good and the end result is an almost factory looking tweeter install.





I set the supplied crossovers to the -4dB position for the tweeters which is working out well for my tastes. The supplied crossovers are pretty large but I was able to fit them in the armrest area of the door panel with no problems.

Finally, I ran my RCA's down the passenger side door sills, up under the passenger kick panel, underneath the glove box and up to the back of my head unit. While I had the whole thing out I added an aux input cable to the inputs on the back of the head unit and routed its headphones plug into my glove box for hookup to passenger's mp3 players.

The Infinity Perfect 12.1 went into a sealed Scosche EFX sealed box along with a grill for protection from cargo. I used 12 ga wire both inside and outside the box for maximum current flow. It is hooked to the bridged rear channels of my amp for 278 watts RMS. Each of the front speakers is getting 111 watts RMS.

I left the stock rear speakers hooked up directly to the panasonic receiver (23 watts RMS) for rear fill.

After some tuning I am thrilled with the result. I was able to tune the amp gain for good balance between the fronts and rears, and employed the high and low pass filters on both the amp and receiver in order to route frequencies appropriately.

This one sub really thumps, I can't imagine having more than one of these.

Total install time, about 8 hours.

Any questions just shoot me an email

Jason F

Sweet, sooo, when are you comin over to install mine?

nice work, i still want to install the tweeters, but my system is kicker, with three ways with bass filters in the door.

Where did you get those adapter plates?

I recently install some 6.5 comps in my explorer and made custom MDF baffles but im having some clearance problem with my passangers side door panel. I also mounted my tweets in almost the same spot and find they sound better with the tweeter @ -3db.

awesome work, keep it up!

-3db, -4db, close enough. I doubt anyone could tell the difference.

I got the adapter plates from Tech Auto Sound in Endicott NY. They are the 5x7 to 5.25" adapters, but as I said the 6.5" BA's drop right in.


Jason

JasonF said:

I finally got my new gear installed a couple weeks ago, it went smoothly and the end result turned out as good as I had hoped. I took some pics of the install to hopefully help some of you who might be thinking about a similar project.

What I started with:
-2004 Ex with basic audio system
-Panasonic CQ-9700U head unit

What went in:
-EFX 4 ga amp power kit
-2 sets of TMA twisted pair RCA's
-16 ga speaker wire direct from front speakers to amp
-Infinity 7541a 4 ch amp
-Boston Acoustics SL60 6.5" component speakers
-5x7 to 6.5" speaker adapter plates
-12 ga speaker wire from amp to sub
-Infinity Perfect 12.1 4-ohm sub in an EFX sealed box

First I ran my 4 ga amp wire through the hood release cable grommet under the dash, under the door sills and back to the 3rd row footwell area where my amp is. You can see the wire being fished through the grommet in this pic. I may elect to drill a new hole in the firewall for this wire in the near future as I am afraid the firewall may eventually chafe through the power wire. 8ga would probably be no problem.

Next I pulled the front door panels and took out the stock speakers. I ran 16ga speaker wire from the door through the rubber boots, and back under the door sills to the amp. This avoided the need to splice into any of that thin gauge stock speaker wire.

On the bench I test mounted up the BA SL60 woofers to the adapter plates. I was very excited to get 6.5" front speakers put in, especially with basically no mods. The woofers fit right in to the adapter plate and I used the supplied 1/4" spacer. That assembly then bolted right in to the stock speaker mounting location.

I custom mounted the tweeters up on the top of the door panels using the supplied flush-mount cups. A dremel sanding drum made quick work of the door to provide the clearance hole for the tweeter cups. The quality of the clamping system from Boston was very good and the end result is an almost factory looking tweeter install.

I set the supplied crossovers to the -4dB position for the tweeters which is working out well for my tastes. The supplied crossovers are pretty large but I was able to fit them in the armrest area of the door panel with no problems.

Finally, I ran my RCA's down the passenger side door sills, up under the passenger kick panel, underneath the glove box and up to the back of my head unit. While I had the whole thing out I added an aux input cable to the inputs on the back of the head unit and routed its headphones plug into my glove box for hookup to passenger's mp3 players.

The Infinity Perfect 12.1 went into a sealed Scosche EFX sealed box along with a grill for protection from cargo. I used 12 ga wire both inside and outside the box for maximum current flow. It is hooked to the bridged rear channels of my amp for 278 watts RMS. Each of the front speakers is getting 111 watts RMS.

I left the stock rear speakers hooked up directly to the panasonic receiver (23 watts RMS) for rear fill.

After some tuning I am thrilled with the result. I was able to tune the amp gain for good balance between the fronts and rears, and employed the high and low pass filters on both the amp and receiver in order to route frequencies appropriately.

This one sub really thumps, I can't imagine having more than one of these.

Total install time, about 8 hours.

Any questions just shoot me an email

Jason F

Click to expand...

Actually the cq-c9700u puts out 26 watts rms. You really did a nice job mounting those tweets. Looks almost factory.

Hey Jason very nice pics...Just last week I bought a 2003 XLT just like yours only a year earlier and I want to get a three way setup going active on the components (sub, midbass, tweeter) but I'm curious...my midbasses are going to be nearly 3.5" deep and I was wondering about how much space would you say is in the door and if you think I'd be able to fit it? I plan on making spacers anyway, but you never know...I'd look for myself right now but I haven't had the time to take the panel off.

They were going to go in my Taurus but I wrecked it and that's how I got this beauty.

Also...this is my first post! heh

Well, I don't have an exact number for you but I don't think you could fit anything significantly much deeper than what I have in there. My speakers are 2 7/16" mounting depth, and I have them on the supplied spacers (~1/4") plus the foam gaskets. Like that, the front is pretty close to the door panel but not touching (as far as I can tell).

The good news for you is the passenger door panel comes off really quickly, since there are less wires to unplug. The 3rd gen door panels are a treat compared to the 2nd gen panels that used those stupid xmas tree clips.

Thanks for the pics! Do you have any pictures of your amp installed? I think you said you have it on the floor in your 3rd row....

Ok here ya go:


The slant on the back of the sub box matches up perfectly to the rear seat.





Ignore the random black wire that is my CB antenna, and the blue/white twisted wire that is just hanging out there because I had to move everything around to take the pic. The amp is right under the sub in the first pic when everything is packed up.

You can also see where I am getting the ground for the amp from the seat mount bolt.


Jason

nice work, i'm getting ready to install my alumapro's in the next couple of weeks, but i'm deadening the doors at the same time.

how did you get the speaker wire through? i tried and tried, and eventually said screw it and spliced the factory wiring, right now im using my little crossfire on the front factory speakers and deck power for the rears.

Getting the new wire through the boots was not as bad as I expected. The trick was to separate the boot from the main chassis of the car. At the vehicle end of the boot the rubber is pretty thick and has a groove in it where it fits into the hole in the body. So if you squeeze it and work it for a while it is possible to get it out of the body so that the end of it is flopping free. Now its simple to fish the new speaker wire through the boot first, and then through the hole in the body down through the kick panel area. Remove the plastic kick panel cover and you will be able to find the wire you just pushed through. Now, the drivers side was a bit more difficult since the whole E-brake mechanism bolts on like right where the speaker wire comes into the car. However, if you take a wire coat hangar and use it as a snake it is possible to fish it through until you see it, then just tape the new speaker wire on and pull.

I just zip tied the stock speaker wire clips back to themselves inside the door so that if I ever sell the vehicle I can remove my components and put the stock speakers back in. Of course I would have to find some cheap tweets to fill the holes too.

You did a great job, and the install looks flawless. I would have mounted 6.5 components over my 5x7 component set, if I knew about those adaptor plates. You might as well replace the rear factory speakers. Good work!

how do you remove the door panels

how do you remove the door panels. i have an 04... thanks... scott

You can buy some cheap and decent adapters here...
http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/sak68t65.htm

The door panels come off real easy. Pop out the piece of trim around the door handle. Behind there is a screw- Remove it. Remove the two screws at the bottom edge of the door panel.

Now lift up the switch panel and disconnect it. Finally just lift the whole door panel, it slides up about an inch and then it's free from the door.


Jason

Great install job Jason, I'm getting ready to install my sub and amp this week and those pics are helpful.

I do have two questions....

1. Where did you run your RCAs? It looks like you ran it down the passenger footboards? If so, do you ever have a problem with interference from the RCAs being so close to the speaker wire?

and

2. Do you find it necessary to have what appears to be a 4 gauge ground wire? My amp kit came with 16 gauge and your larger ground wire has me thinking twice if there's a good reason to have it thicker.

Thanks!!

Yes, they run down the passenger side floorboard right next to the speaker wire. I haven't had any issues. Twisted pair RCA's should help with this.

Generally amp wiring kits come in 8 guage or 4 guage. It is important that both the power AND ground wire be the same thickness, so at a minimum your ground should be 8 guage. You can see in my pic that I just coiled up the extra length that I had, because I wasn't sure if that was going to be my FINAL amp location. Since then I haven't moved it, so I should probably cut those down to proper length. But since they are 4 guage it's not a big deal.


Jason

96s281 said:

Great install job Jason, I'm getting ready to install my sub and amp this week and those pics are helpful.

I do have two questions....

1. Where did you run your RCAs? It looks like you ran it down the passenger footboards? If so, do you ever have a problem with interference from the RCAs being so close to the speaker wire?

and

2. Do you find it necessary to have what appears to be a 4 gauge ground wire? My amp kit came with 16 gauge and your larger ground wire has me thinking twice if there's a good reason to have it thicker.

Thanks!!

Click to expand...

OK, I'm an idiot. The 16ga wire I referred to above is the turn on/off wire that goes to the wiring harness of the head unit (and I think it's actually 18ga, but whatever). The kit does have a 3ft 4ga wire that is used for the ground.

I guess a small piece of the main 17' power wire needs to be cut to run from the fuse to the battery, correct? I thought the 3ft 4 ga wire was what went to the battery at first.

I'm new at the amp install game and want to make sure I'm getting everything right.