Dual Optimas & Isolator Installed!!!

badge49 · September 29, 2006

I finally finished gathering the parts and installing everything for a dual battery system! I now have an Optima Red Top as my designated starting battery and an Optima Yellow Top as my deep-cycle accessory battery. I bought a Sure Power 120A power isolator on Ebay and used no less than 8 guage wires to make all the connections. Instalation was surprisingly easy and only took one afternoon. I definitely recomend this to anyone who goes camping or wants to run heavy draining accessories off their truck. Be sure to get yourself a good voltometer and check your current levels at each connection. Also be sure to secure everything tightly as you mutiply the number of "hot" wires and the points where they could short circuit if left loose. The last thing you want to happen is to run a 24V system and fry your electrical! I currently use this system to run a 115V AC power inverter so I can take my power tools with me on the go. Since the install last week, I've noticed I don't have as much dimming of power when I run multiple accessories (fog lights, radio, amp, cb...). I also plan to run a winch off the accessory battery in the future. The best part of the whole thing was watching the expression peoples' faces when I "jumped" myself the other day after running my stereo for almost six hours with the truck off! A definite necessity for serious explorations in the future! Here are a few pictures of what it looks like:

This is the deignated starting battery with a power line running to the isolator.

This is the Sure Power 120A isolator, mounted to the passenger wall.

Here's the Yellow Top tucked in behind the passenger headlight.

And here's the overall new unit, you have to relocate a bunch of stuff, but it will fit. Next on the list: tire/jerry can rear bumper, then on-board air! :navajo:

'97 V8 · September 29, 2006

too much wiring for me. Good job though.

Rick · September 29, 2006

Dual batteries definately come in handy!

One thing... if your isolator ever fails you may want to go the solenoid route instead. The electrical isolator eats up a bit of voltage because it uses diodes in order to get the job done. The solenoid is purely mechanical and when it's switched over you get full battery output.

The electrical isolator is one big heat sink because it's inefficient and converts some of the power running through it into heat.

everythintech · September 29, 2006

very nice, something i will do when i get all my offroad lighting in place, as well as on-board air.

dkchrist · September 30, 2006

nice setup another idea for when i win the lottery

badge49 · September 30, 2006

Rick said:
Dual batteries definately come in handy!

One thing... if your isolator ever fails you may want to go the solenoid route instead. The electrical isolator eats up a bit of voltage because it uses diodes in order to get the job done. The solenoid is purely mechanical and when it's switched over you get full battery output.

The electrical isolator is one big heat sink because it's inefficient and converts some of the power running through it into heat.

Hopefully mine won't be failing anytime soon, but I'll definitely keep the solenoid idea in the back of my head. Heat from the isolator was one of my concerns, especially since I mounted the unit and it's cooling blades sideways, but I haven't noticed any problems so far. :navajo:

badge49 · September 30, 2006

dkchrist said:
nice setup another idea for when i win the lottery

It really wasn't that expensive...I took my time finding the parts and got great deals. In all, I think I got both the Yellow Top and the isolator off Ebay for under $100. I've got to actually play the lottery before I can win! :navajo:

old mechanic · September 30, 2006

badge49 said:
It really wasn't that expensive...I took my time finding the parts and got great deals. In all, I think I got both the Yellow Top and the isolator off Ebay for under $100. I've got to actually play the lottery before I can win! :navajo:

-------------
Both for under $100.00? Where? I will buy a few.

badge49 · October 1, 2006

Like I said, I took my time finding the good deals. I bought the Yellow Top from a guy down in Sacramento, CA for $70. He took it out of his work truck, so it was used, but it works fine. The isolator came a few months later for $27 shipped. It came out of a different guys work truck somewhere on the other side of the country. The rest of the stuff like wires and shinny terminals were left over from my days when I drove imports. I always look on Ebay before I buy something, you can find some really good deals if you are patient enough

old mechanic · October 1, 2006

Excellent deal! :thumbsup:

Nice job!

KPT · October 1, 2006

I would definatly have used at least 4 ga. 8 ga wire will not enjoy moving 120 amps. Could be a fire hazard.

badge49 · October 2, 2006

The isolator is rated up to 120A, but I don't think my alternator (OEM) will put out more than 90A. I went with the bigger isolator so I would have a buffer. :navajo:

NICE59FORDF100 · October 13, 2006

do i see red wires grounded to the body? please tell me thats just because you didnt have black wire

:

badge49 · October 13, 2006

NICE59FORDF100 said:
do i see red wires grounded to the body? please tell me thats just because you didnt have black wire :

Lol, ya.....I only had a few feet of black 8ga. wire and I used it for grounding the amp and power inverter. I'll replace the red ground wires with black ones later...but until then I'll just be careful. :navajo:

Wagonized · October 14, 2006

looks great although id agree that 8 gauge isnt large enough wire.

what all did you have to relocate??? im definitely going to do this when I get a 5L

badge49 · October 14, 2006

Most people I've seen have put their dual battery next to the primary battery. Because I put mine on the other side of the engine bay (weight distribution) I had to remove the coolant/washer fluid tanks and the origional air box. I also had to move/adjust the cruise control thingy and the wire harness running to the headlights. I built a custom 3" aluminum intake, with open K&N filter, that has two 60 degree bends in it. I'm now using a smaller Honda coolant tank mounted on the side of the radiator brackets, and an almost flat Honda washer fluid tank that I'm going to mount near the brake fluid filler tank. I spent as much time moving/relocating stuff as I did mounting the new battery/isolator. I can post more pictures if anyone wants ideas for where to move stuff. :navajo:

NICE59FORDF100 · October 14, 2006

I will put mine in the cargo area where that little cubby hole is on the passenegr side, so that way, it will power my amp and my in vertor all right there

NICE59FORDF100 · October 14, 2006

question? Um, you said that the isolator is rated at a max of 120, right? what size alternator do you have? if you have the 130 amp, shouldn;t you have got an isolator rated at 130, or is a 130 alternator and a 120 isolator ok together? just curious

badge49 · October 14, 2006

I know Ford gave us two different alternators (130A and 90A?), but I think I have the smaller one. I've now had everything hooked up for a few weeks and no fires/meltdowns yet

! I thought about the cargo area also, but that means two things: BIG "hot" wires running through your cabin, and further distance from the primary battery and alternator = resistance. Be sure to post some pics if you get to doing your dual batteries! :navajo:

BKennedy · November 12, 2006

I noticed on your first picture you did not sandwich the terminal connectors between two nuts (jam nut configuration). I just installed the same type of isolator and the instructions stated you would not get a good connection without jam nuts and lock washers, and you could also damage the isolator. I like the rest though.

Oh, and I used 4 gauge wire to avoid overheating the wiring and the isolator. Got it at Home Depot for less than $1.50 per foot. Instructions recommended a minimum of 6 gauge for the 120 watt isolators.

Oh, one more thing....If you built your own air intake and it doesn't have a CARB number on it, your truck won't pass smog and you could get a $350.00 ticket if you are stopped and asked to open your hood.

Dual Optimas & Isolator Installed!!!

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