All that had the 00M12 fix performed at Ford Dealer...Your Help Please!

Hi Everyone,
I need your help in getting some information. I was about to do my 00M12 repair and was calling around for kit prices and availability, while on the phone I'd thought I ask the service department about the recall or service bulletin related to this issue. I'm experiencing what I think everyone has with my 98 4.0L SOHC Explorer, rough idle in the morning (especially in cold weather) - fluctuates and stutters. I also hear a little rattle, which could also imply the cam tensioner. I also recently had P0171 and P0174 error codes (Lean system Bank 1 and Bank 2)

The service advisor at the dealer said that if I "had the correct symptoms or engine codes that indicated this issue, the repair might be free". I gave him the specifics on my vehicle (1998 and 69K), I know other posts indicate that the service was free up to 6 yrs. from purchase or 72K - which ever comes first. Of course I would want to get the "free" part in writing before they proceed, but I would like a good understanding from those who had the repair performed at the dealer - What where the exact symptoms, specifically if there were any check engine code that were thrown? Any specific Check Engine Codes? I am especially interested in all those who had this repaired performed for free from Ford.

I could probably do the repair myself, I'm somewhat of a handy guy, but hey if I can get it done for free, including parts, why not and save myself a PITA repair. Thanks again for your help!!

I had the exact same symptoms and eror codes when I my 00M12 fix done.
However mine was not free b/c I was over the mileage limit.

I think your over on the time anyways. Its an easy fix. From what I have read here a dealer will do it for about $200 and you could do it for the cost of the parts $30-$40 and an hour or so in labor.

Mine never threw codes, but all the other symptoms were there, oh and it would constantly die when it was cold, once it warmed up, it was fine.

this also sounds like a cracked PCV rubber boot...mine is one or the other right now....same symptoms

My 96 had a crappy idle, but replacing the DPFE solved that, and my EGR code has not returned yet.

I'm having the same issues, mine is a 2001 explorer sport and I am just out of the 6 year coverage by about 8 months time. I'm sure the dealership won't honor it though I have about 69000 on the odometer now. I did a search but came up with nothing in terms of the part numbers needed for the job or maybe a step by step guide for it. Thanks.

sport01mi said:

I'm having the same issues, mine is a 2001 explorer sport and I am just out of the 6 year coverage by about 8 months time. I'm sure the dealership won't honor it though I have about 69000 on the odometer now. I did a search but came up with nothing in terms of the part numbers needed for the job or maybe a step by step guide for it. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Part # YL2Z-9E473-AA, it should have upper and lower intake gaskets, new tensioner, and an volume reduction plug. As for guides, you can download and burn the "shop manual" DVD from www.fordcds.com it has an OK step by step, with illustrations.

Here are some instructions. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=487634&postcount=33

The 00m12 fixes the Intake Manifold Gaskets (O-Rings), and the kit also includes a new Cam Chain Tensioner. These should both be done during the repair.

The symptoms are simple. When the temperature drops your Explorer will want to act like it's going to die on a cold start. It might fluctuate in RPM's or just plain die at times if the RPM's get too low. This is because the O-Rings are bad and are letting too much air through them. The new O-Rings will solve that leak. When your engine warms up (with the old O-Rings) it allows them to expand because of the engine heat and it brings you back to a "normal" start-up. Once the O-rings get cold and shrivel again they will let air pass through them again. They are just small Rubber "O's".

I got the 00m12 done at my Ford dealership and it took them 2 labor hours. It would have been free under 72k miles but I was at like 78k when I realized the problem.

Hope this helps..

Josh

Awesome, thanks guys. I'll swing by the dealership anyway and see if they can do anything for me and if not pickup the parts kit. If I can avoid doing it in the cold ass weather, why not?

Thanks for the info you guys!

Sport01mi, let me know if they honor your request. I'm going in as well. Like I said nothing like a freebie, if not it doesn't sound to be that hard to change out.

roll the odometer back.

'97 V8 said:

roll the odometer back.

Click to expand...

lol... that's one way to do it
wish i wuold have thought of that last summer

they said I was over on time.. from what they told me, it was from the day the truck was produced? Mine was march of 2000...but shouldn't it be from the time the campaign was offered by ford? Or even from the date that I purchased the vehicle (2003)? I'm thinking they just wanna get out of doing the work for free.

edit: I went back to pick up the kit and a more helpful person looked up my vin and I am 3 months out of the warrenty.. It goes by the date it was first purchased. Now I just need to pickup a space heater for my garage to do the work.

Hello All

Seems to have nailed my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport problem here... now on to checking out the 1999 Windstar problems... fun fun... Thank you all and LATER

FWIW, I just did mine this weekend. Had I not FUBAR'd the thermostat housing in the process, it would have taken me four hours all together.... But that includes taking an hour to find the socket I dropped at the back of the motor that lodged itself under the fuel rail!!

If you're halfway competent with hand tools and know your way around the engine, figure 3-4 hours. Be sure you have a 1 1/16" combination wrench to remove the tensioner.

-Joe

Did mine FOUR times this weekend. GUSHED oils after every attempt. The oil is GUSHING from the Tensioner. No, didn't deform the washer. Torqued to 40lbs. ?????????

Then something's out of whack, and I'm sure that's frustrating as heck, huh?

I suspect either the tensioner itself is defective (maybe cracked?) or it got cross-threaded on the way down... Without being there to see it, it's a little tough to troubleshoot...

Not sure why I just didn't leave the old tensioner in place! I could buy the crossthreaded suggestion but would have thought, even if crossthreaded, if it pulled home tight, the shoulder of the tensioner should still be parallel with the surface it's closing down on to? I'm thinking the tensioner would stay true in the bore, owing to the length of the thread.

The washer supplied in the 00m12 kit seemed totally worthless although I used it for the first failed attempt. Used the old washer for the second attempt, same result. Used a dremelled out (to snug over the tensioner shoulder) 2mm copper washer for the third and fourth (both failed attempts.

Dang, with 10 lts of oil on the garage floor, this thing almost has me throwing the towel in.