How to: Apply bed liner to your floor | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Apply bed liner to your floor

OK, here is how to bed line your floor. If you have a 1st gen I have every nut size in here. If you have a diff. model, you'll get the general idea.
Note: I already had my carpet removed before I began this. So I'm not going to mention removing it. But, after all the seats and center console is out it should come out easily. I think it might work well between steps 19 and 20. You can just pull it out from the side paneling, with out removing all the plastic pieces.
First I removed the back seat, next the front, and then the center console.
1: Lay the back seats down and flip up the spring loaded cover. Remove the 3 bolts (11 mm) retaining the spring.


2: Remove the cover by taking out the 7 bolts (8 mm) that hold it on.

3: Remove the nut (18 mm) and bold (15 mm) which hold down the seat belt and sides of the back seat.

4: There are 2 bolts (15 mm and 18 mm) which hold down the seat belt recievers (between the two seats). Remove these.

5: Move the back seat to the upright position. There are 4 nuts (15 mm) with rubber guards that bolt the 4 seat legs to the floor. Use a screw driver to pop off the rubber covers and remove the nuts.

6: Remove the back seats.

7: There should still be a seat belt reciever, and the center seat belt bolted to the floor. These are held down with one bolt (T-50) remove them.

8: Working from the back seat area remove the inner front seat belt bolts (I don't know what size these are. Mine were so stripped they looked like doughnuts. I had to use an angle grinder to cut a slash accross them and turn them into giant flat head screws.).

9: Disconnect the wire on the driver's seat (visible in the pic above).
10: Remove the plastic covers on the back of the front seat brackets.

11: Remove the 4 bolts (13 mm) 2 in the front, 2 in the back, holding the front seats in.


12: Remove the two front seats.
13: Remove the two screws (philips) in the center console, just behind the cup holder.

14: Pry out the plastic covers at the back of the console.

15: Remove the two bolts (8 mm) from each side.

16: Remove the arm rest.
17: Unscrew the only screw (philips) beneath the arm rest.

18: Remove the center console. Revealing 2 brakets.

19: Unscrew the 6 nuts (11 mm) holding the brakets in.
20: Remove the 2 screws (philips) holding the rear floor heater vent on.

21: Unscrew the 2 nuts (11 mm) under the vent.

22: Unscrew the electrical wire from the front of the vent tube.

23: Unscrew the 2 screws (philips) at the front of the vent tube.

24: Pull out the anchors and remove the vent tube.

25: Remove the front seat belt bolts (T-50).

26: Remove all the rubber stoppers in the floor.

27: Remove the 4 luggage hooks in the bed. Each held on with 2 bolts (8 mm).

28: You should now have everything removed from the inside of the truck. If there is anything left, remove it. Suspend all the wires with string from the steering wheel, handles above the doors, what ever will work.

29: Wash the inside of the truck out very dilligently. Twice. Use the same stuff you use to clean the outside. Use a towel to dry it out.
30: Use masking tape to tape off all the plastic side pieces, and any other edges. You also need to cover up the holes that bolts go into. I half way inserted all the bolts that bolt into the body, and then wrapped tape arround them. I've tried a few different methods, and this one has been the easiest, and given the best results. I don't have a good pic, but you can sort of see all the yellow specs in the passenger compartment, in the next pic. Those are all bolts with tape wrapped arround them.
31: Useing sand paper sand away any and all rust.
32: With a scuff pad rough up the entire floor area. The bed liner won't stick well to paint unless it is scuffed up first.

33: Use a degreaser/cleaner that leaves no residue and clean the floor again. Brake cleaner works great for this. I think I used 2 or 3 bottles. Keep cleaning and wiping untill you have a perfectly clean surface (other wise the bed liner won't stick).
34: Use a brush to get any corners or areas the roller won't get to and apply the bed liner. Come behind that with the roller. Let each coat dry for 1-2 hrs before applying the next coat (I used 4 coats).
35: I also sanded rust off of my seat brackets and coated them. It was also a good opportunity to lubricate the slider rails (they were sticking pretty bad before hand).

36: And don't forget to bed line the flap that rests on the back seats.

37: After 24 hrs. you can begin putting it all back together, in the opposite order that it came out.


 



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Thanks for the article. Sorry it took so long to get going.
 






very cool post! thanks for doing it - it takes a LOT of hard work to document everything :thumbsup:

-Drew
 






Great post.... and you managed not to get it on your hootus!
 






Does that ever wear off? And Great job with it
 






Is there any SOUND DEADENING help with this? Kinda like dynamat or something for road noise?
 






on my bronco 2, it deadened sound quite a bit. i also got the cheap, non-textured, spray can stuff and did the backside of all the interior panels (well, the ones that are left) and the metal underneath the side panels. I used spray on (textured) for the floor too, but i should have used roll-on, its much thicker. oh yeah, i also did the lower part of the plastic panels, too
undercoat7.jpg


undercoat5.jpg
 






DO NOT GET THAT STUFF ON YOUR HOOTUS!

LOL!!

Ryan
 






I ripped the carpet up using this great guide and I am thinking of using some of the cans of rubberized undercoating spray on the floors. Does anyone know if that would hold up to foot traffic or wear right off?
 






I was told by a member of this that the undercoating takes forever to dry.
 






I ripped the carpet up using this great guide and I am thinking of using some of the cans of rubberized undercoating spray on the floors. Does anyone know if that would hold up to foot traffic or wear right off?

use the roll on, not the aerosol spray. the spray just can't get thick enough, and it has less texture.
 






Is there any SOUND DEADENING help with this? Kinda like dynamat or something for road noise?

If you took out the carpet, lined the floors, and then put the carpet back in, it would deaden sound a small, tiny, little fraction. But with the carpet and insulation removed it is much louder.
 






What brand bed liner did you use??

You were very brave to use that stuff without any protection. Full body rubber is ideal.
 






^^ Haha,
I used Duplicolor brand from Advance Auto. I've also used whatever brand Walmart sells on a work van. I'm guessing neither holds up quite as well as herculiner, since I have a few very small areas that have rubbed/chipped off in the last 2 years.
 






I'm kicking around the idea of pulling out my carpeting console and seats (except drivers till it's at the shop) and having Rhino liner or line-x sprayed on the interior next August when I'm out of ocs. Floors, middle of doors down and the entire rear interior. Any ideas or complaints from those with similar setups? any preference between different products?
 






I've been kicking around this idea for a while. I've also very seriously considered Line-X'ing the entire outside of my vehicle in Red.

I finally saw a Wrangler with the interior done in person (in Black). The dude's Wrangler was spotless, but the floor looked like he had some muddy feet riding in it. I asked him about his opinions and he said, it was a show truck, and he had the interior professionally detailed and scrubbed and that's the cleanest the floor was getting. Apparantly bedliners are porous. That was one of the biggest advantages I was considering, in that I could just hose down my interior to get it spotless.

So that cancelled the deal for me. Now I'm enjoying the ability to add Dynamat under my carpet; another thing you can't do with a bedlined floor.

Maybe I'll kick the idea around again in several years.
 






good to know. I'm not too overly concerned with how clean it is since eventually its going to be my rig for thrashing but maybe a yellow or brown colored liner would hide the dirt haha. Based on the pourus-ness of the spray on stuff (i know its supposed to be chemically resistant) any idea if it really holds up against strong solvents?
 






In response to BonesDT saying that the liner contracted outside influences and didn't release them, would something like tire black possible to the trick?
 






another question, how well did the spray on liner mate with the plastic interior?
 



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