DIY Rear Brakes

My daughter needs her rear brakes done and doesn't have the money for a mechanic, my husband did the front ones last weekend. Are the rear brakes as easy to do as the front ones? If not HELP!!! Thanks, Wendy.

We-95 Explorer XLT
They-92 Explorer XLT

If the vehicle of attention is the '92 Explorer, then it will be a little bit more time consuming as the rear axle uses drum brakes (as opposed to disc brakes like on the '95 you mentioned).

But there are plenty of "how to"s on drum brakes online, here are a few:

Advanced Auto: http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/asp/ccr/ccr20021101bs.asp

PepBoys: http://www.pepboys.com/learning_center/car_care/articles/svc_rear.html

There are typically no specialized tools involved -- the toolset used to do the front brakes should include most of the tools required to do the rear. The only addition are a few screwdrivers and a few needle-nose pliers as the springs on a brake drum configuration are "difficult". The drum themselves are also difficult to remove most of the time.

Has you husband ever done Brakes on any opther vehicle before doing the Fronts last weekend?
The drums are more complex.
The Emergency brake section can get confusing.

Hints:
take the new Brake shoes out of the box. two have more pad material then the other two. The shoes with more pad material go to the back of the vehicle. ( the Emergency brake cable works this larger pad.)
Basically he needs a pair of Pliers that can open up to about 3/4" to twist off the Shoe Holders.

IMO when doing rear drum brakes it is best to support the rear axle on jack stands and remove both rear wheels and Brake drums. Then work on 1 side only and use the other side for reference since the parts can be confusing when trying to put them back.. This is a picture of how the rear brakes look when completed:

Thanks!!

Looks like we are heading to our mechanics today. We really appreciate all of the fantastic information to help us make this decision easy.

although not too hard to do, if unsure it would be best to take to a mechanic.

you can do without a lot of things working in a vehicle, but not the brakes.

DeRocha said:

on 1 side only and use the other side for reference since the parts can be confusing when trying to put them back..

Click to expand...

x2 -- drum brakes are a little confusing.

quicklook2 said:

although not too hard to do, if unsure it would be best to take to a mechanic.

you can do without a lot of things working in a vehicle, but not the brakes.

Click to expand...

Brakes are actually one of the easiest things to do on a vehicle...

Couple of tricks to make your job MUCH easier.

1. Invest a couple of bucks in a simple brake spring tool. You'll thank me and whomever you believe in deity wise.

2. Do only one side at a time, so that you can look at the other side when or if you get confused about how everything goes back together.

3. Get a can of brake cleaner spray for each side. Wash down the old brake dust (never blow it with air -- bad for the lungs), then when everything is together, rinse it down again to remove grease and finger prints, which cause hot spots.

4. Make sure that you take your drums to get cut/turned. Almost any auto parts store can do this for fees of $5-15 each. It will take an hour or so to do them, so take them down as soon as you pull off the drums. That way, they'll be done when you are ready to re-assemble.

5. The drums can be difficult to pull off once in a while -- rocking them side-to-side (holding on the rear of the drum and pulling forcefully outward, toward you) will help. Some get stickier than that, and require some amount of force to remove. Don't be suprised if they don't slide right off.

6. Discard the little metal clips that are on the studs, which are only used by the factory to hold the drums in place while they build the vehicle. You do not need to replace them.

7. Make sure you use white lithium grease on the points where movement occurs -- just a dab! The edges of the shoes hit the backing plate in 2-3 spots on each side -- you'll find a raised spot on the front and back edge of the backing plate where the shoes ride. Also make sure you grease the adjuster so that it is free.

8. You do not need any special tool to adjust the brakes. When you put the new shoes on, move the adjusters all the way in, so that the brake shoes are as close together as they can get (with all the parts in place). Self-adjust by backing up the vehicle, and pumping the brake pedal as you reverse. Each time you hit the pedal, you will jack up the adjuster screw one click. Don't overdo it. They'll automatically adjust as you drive.

9. To use the brake spring tool, place the cupped end over the top post (where the springs hook over) and twist it. The spring will be grabbed by the groove in the tool and you will be able to pull it off the post very easily. To re-assemble, use the other end of the tool. Place the groove in the tool over the post, slip the spring over the tool, and pry upwards. The spring will slide up the tool and drop over the post. VERY simple with the tool. You will likely hurt yourself using pliers and screwdrivers... GET THE TOOL!

This is the tool I recommend:

http://www.toolsource.com/drum-brake-spring-tool-bendix-p-71280.html

I've been a pro-tech for close to 30 years and this is all I use...

You can also get one that helps to release the small springs that hold the shoes to the backing plate, but that isn't necessary. Those you can just push and twist with your fingers or a pair of pliers. The "nails" that hold the springs in place have a flatened spot that is wider than the nail, and the little backing plate that holds the spring in place has a slot. You turn the little plate so that the slot is lined up with the wide place on the nail and it pops right off.

If you want a tool to make twisting the little plate easier, this is the one I recommend, 'cause it fits all the drum brakes:

http://www.toolsource.com/brake-spring-washer-tool-p-67178.html

That's about it... I can do a pair of drum brakes (not counting the time to turn the drums) in under 15 minutes. It will take you an hour -- just because you are not used to doing the work.

Also, as long as you do not pop out any of the hydraulic parts, no bleeding is required.

IF stuff looks like it is leaking while you are in there working, find out if it is an axle seal or the brake cylinder. Replacing either is not a difficult job.