5R55E- No R or D after VB rebuild, superior, sonnax, Ford TSB

I am pretty green to any ATX repair. I started reading the VBrebuild diary about a year ago in prep for this job knowing i would have to address the (very occational) blinking O/D light at some point. I collected all my parts and gathered some vacation. All seemed to go fine until i went to test for functionallity.

Mods-
Superior shift Kit, Sonnax boost valve, Ford Main Control Valve Body update (with new filter, Separator Plate, gaskets, and fluid).

Condition-
No Drive
No Reverse
1- OK(moves, but not road tested)
2- OK(moves, but not road tested)
R and D cause the O/D light to flash.

i noticed when i went to reinstall the low/reverse servo it was very difficult to seat. i gave it a good push and it went home (...i am now wondering if i broke something).
secondly, i noticed the torque wrench setting had changed, unfortunately for me, i saw this when i was putting tools away (thats what i get for getting a cheap one).
I will pull the codes tonight with a borrowed code scanner. I am about to pick up a pressure gague to test line pressures as well. Additionally, i am also about to head out to pick up a new torque wrench.

Mainly, i was hoping for some help for places to start. I am not overly confident because I know I dont have the experience to troubleshoot this. I figured I would start by taking it all down again and checking my work; verify i do not have a jammed or stuck valve in one of the bores i was working on. I found the pdf from Sonnax's web site that gives great illustrations for keepers and assembly.
Secondly, I am concerned about the low/reverse servo. I didn't like the way it seated up in there. Its very tight with the new seal on there and i gave it quite a push to get in there. Should I be concerned about this... will the phillips screwdriver trick tell me anything?
Next I will reassemble it using my new, not-so-cheap torque wrench. I guess at that point I will refill the tranny and give it a shot.

I know I didn't really have many direct questions in there, but would appriciate any advice on troubleshooting this. TIA, and kudos to all you guys writing content allowing the average folk a chance at fixing our own stuff (or sort'of, in my case).

don't panic, let's start with the easy stuff. Are you sure you have enough fluid in there?
oh and what did you torque wrench end up on?

Im not very knowledgeable on trannys but i did replace the VB in my 99. The first thing i thought of when reading your post was did you engage the "manuel valve" when you put the VB back in? I dont know if that would be the cause but i thought id throw it out there. And as far as cheap wrenches, i used an inch pound i got on sale at harbor freight for $20, and it worked perfectly. good luck

Lets start from the beginning. Was the overdrive light flashing before, and after the rebuild? If so, what is the code? Is it the same code before, and after? Are you using an In/LB 1/4" drive torque wrench? If so, how many inch pounds is it set on? Are you using the bonded separator plates? As for the low/reverse servo, you should feel some bounce (spring action) when you install the servo. If not, then the band might be slightly misaligned. You could easily realign it with a small pick or screwdriver.

you should read the codes to find out why the OD light is flashing as well. Did you replace your EPC with the rebuild?

Edit: Geesh you guys are too fast I need to refresh before I post..


Oh BTW xfatcatx if the manual valve was not connected he wouldn't have any feedback at all in any gear. But it was a good thought

Dang you guys are speedy!

you should read the codes to find out why the OD light is flashing as well. Did you replace your EPC with the rebuild?

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1. I dont know the codes from before i did the work. i was told by a local autoparts retail clerk that an OBD II Code read would not pull the codes and that I would have to go to a trans shop. When I went to the shop, it had no codes stored, and never made it there when the light was actually flashing.
1b. Yes I replaced the EPC as well.

Was the overdrive light flashing before, and after the rebuild? If so, what is the code? Is it the same code before, and after? Are you using an In/LB 1/4" drive torque wrench? If so, how many inch pounds is it set on? Are you using the bonded separator plates? As for the low/reverse servo, you should feel some bounce (spring action) when you install the servo. If not, then the band might be slightly misaligned. You could easily realign it with a small pick or screwdriver

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2. Yes it flashed sparatically. Sometimes it would go a month, sometimes a couple days without coming on. When it came on, after i got to my destination, I would rack the shift lever all the way down and back up to P. Go do my business, then when i started the truck up to go home (or wherever) I would perform the 'rack manuver' then if the light wasn't out, it would usually go out within a few miles.
FYI- When the light came on the condtion i experienced was very rough shifts, seemed like no OD (verified by gas milage and observing the tach).
The torque wrench i used was IN pounds, and i saw it at 120in/lbs... i have no clue when it slipped to that setting. The new wrench will be IN/LBS for sure
No, the new plate i got does not have bonded gaskets. I verified the part against my old one and found it did have the hold deleted (ie- hole was not there) and jsut figured this one didn't come like that.

The first thing i thought of when reading your post was did you engage the "manuel valve" when you put the VB back in?

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3. Yes, when i was reading the 5R55E diary, i saw someone had forgotten this step and was sure to align and position it properly when I torqued the bolts.

don't panic, let's start with the easy stuff. Are you sure you have enough fluid in there?

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4. It took 9 Qt's. Total capacity is 9.8 according to the ATSG manual (or haynes not sure which atm), and the stick showed the level in the crosshatched section.

I will post the error codes tonight when i get home and pull them. Thank you all for the help and feedback so far.

Kean_SHO said:

1. I dont know the codes from before i did the work. i was told by a local autoparts retail clerk that an OBD II Code read would not pull the codes and that I would have to go to a trans shop. When I went to the shop, it had no codes stored, and never made it there when the light was actually flashing.
1b. Yes I replaced the EPC as well.

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OK, the codes will help greatly

2. Yes it flashed sparatically. Sometimes it would go a month, sometimes a couple days without coming on. When it came on, after i got to my destination, I would rack the shift lever all the way down and back up to P. Go do my business, then when i started the truck up to go home (or wherever) I would perform the 'rack manuver' then if the light wasn't out, it would usually go out within a few miles.
FYI- When the light came on the condtion i experienced was very rough shifts, seemed like no OD (verified by gas milage and observing the tach).
The torque wrench i used was IN pounds, and i saw it at 120in/lbs... i have no clue when it slipped to that setting. The new wrench will be IN/LBS for sure

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that means the tranny was running in limp mode, this is cause when the computer gets confused by the input from all the sensors, or something is not responding the way the computer thinks it should.

No, the new plate i got does not have bonded gaskets. I verified the part against my old one and found it did have the hold deleted (ie- hole was not there) and jsut figured this one didn't come like that.

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hmm that's interesting did you use the updated part number from the rebuild diary? its not a big deal, as long as you got the gaskets lined up properly and torqued

3. Yes, when i was reading the 5R55E diary, i saw someone had forgotten this step and was sure to align and position it properly when I torqued the bolts.

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yeah that's not your problem

4. It took 9 Qt's. Total capacity is 9.8 according to the ATSG manual (or haynes not sure which atm), and the stick showed the level in the crosshatched section.

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if the tranny is not primed the fluid will be higher than it actually is, how long did you run the engine, was it enough time to get the fluid pumping?

I will post the error codes tonight when i get home and pull them. Thank you all for the help and feedback so far.

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That will help greatly

not much of an update... but I wasn't able to pull the codes last night. the code scanner my friend had didn't pull powertrain codes. so now I'm in search of a scanner. ill be back at it afterwork this afternoon.

yeah the cheaper scanners cannot pull those codes

manaen said:

yeah the cheaper scanners cannot pull those codes

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do you know of one that will?

Kean_SHO, I wanted to let you know that I'm going to have to rebuild the transmission. The valve body rebuild did not fix the problem. After speaking with a friend who has a friend who works at a transmission shop, reverse going out is a common problem in the 5r55e transmission. I'm going to begin the rebuild this weekend, but I'm still trying to find out what tools are required. According to the manual, several speciality tools are required, but some people say you don't need them all. I'm going to place a post hoping to get some answers. I'll let you know when I find out more.

The more expensive scanners are capable of reading most codes. The cheap ones are more generic, not manufacturer specific. As for the proper tools, are you rebuilding the entire transmission or just the valve body? Don't open the pump or you will need a special pump alignment tool. A torque wrench is necessary for properly setting the valve body bolts in place, and adjusting the bands. Seal installer, and driver tools are nice to have, but it's possible to work without them. There are ways to improvise.

I am a big believer in seal installer tools. While they CAN be improvised. the typical shade tree mechaninc will NOT devote the attention.... Auto Trannies can be done by ANYONE.... ***IF*** they pay careful attention to detail. GUYS... that is the big problem for DIY's.... they often do not pay careful attention..... and in the case of AT's that is CRITICAL.

ps. I recently ran across a guy who works for an airline and rebuilds JET engines..... we unavoidably spent a couple hours in an airport bar on a recent trip I took... (I travel a lot lately) and when we parted we agreed that Auto Tranny rebuilds are on par with Jet engine rebuilds..... ATTENTION TO DETAIL !!!! I cannot stress this enough. No brute force fixes.

pps. He also agreed that AT's were harder that turbines in many ways.

That said I believe if a DIY wants to pay attention and has enough direction he or she can do it. I am here to help those willing to read, learn and try.

Im on a break from working on solving this problem. I just got the vb put back together veryifing i had all the keepers in their proper location and all valves seated properly in their respective bores. I may have had 1 L keeper holding the wrong part of one of the valves (i will edit this and correctly reference the location later) and 1 valve assembly was possibly jammed.
After i hit post, i will be in search of how to make sure the low/reverse servo piston is seated correctly. when i reach up there with a small screwdriver, i can feel something of a flat surface with a springy rebound. Im just not sure what im looking for.
on a related note, i closely examined the piston and noticed 3 very small hairline fractures in the tip. is this something that i need to replace immediately, or is it ok to put back together as is knowing this may be an issue down the road.
again, thanks to you all. i can not express how greatfull i am.

Update to the update

Well, i got it all back together... and no go, same issue.
I know i have all the vb bolts in torqued to the proper spec. I checked all the valves and they seem to be in correctly. I still wonder about the reverse/low servo piston, but when i looked up in there i saw a shiny tab that looked like it was ok.
Observation:
The truck will move in 1, but doesn't want to... i have to get on it but it doesn't feel like there is any power.
It feels normal in 2. It would start to move when i let my foot off the brake.
Still no D or R. It doesn't even try, and the motor just revs. At this point the OD light will flash.
I called a local tranny shop this AM. *short version* I explained to him that i just wanted the codes read and asked how much it would be. He replied when the normal diagnostic is $75, at which i inquired as to what this "normal diagnostic" included. At this point his tone changed and he became slightly stand-off'ish. He said it was codes and a little investigation into the problem then he would call and discuss what the soultion would be. When i told him i just wanted the codes read he said well we dont really do that, it sounds like you need a complete tranny rebuild because the problem is internal.
At that point he was a complete a$$ and i felt it was just better not to go any further with his company.
Being that tomorrow is sunday, im not sure where i can take it for codes. But i suppose there isn't much else i can do at this point. I guess i will sit down with the phonebook and my coffee and start calling.
Blind thoughts out loud-
I wonder if the new EPC i installed is bad or incorrect model. i suppose the codes would tell me about that.
Secondly, i did install the pressure riser from the superior kit... could that have caused an issue with the harness or grounding out a wire?

You might have a few options. Autozone could read your codes for free. Another option is to send the valve body to a place like Central Valve Bodies for testing. A third option is to check WWW.ATRA.Com for a certified shop in your area. The last option is that you could get a valve body from Glacier with a deposit to test in your transmission to see if it solves the problem. BTW Glacier, did you get that mechanic to sign up on this site?

Or, you could just put in a remanned VB from Central Valve Bodies, they are known good. I had my old VB in and out 3 times before I just put in a remanned with tested and known good sylaniods to fix my issue. As far as pulling the codes, is the problem you cant drive the truck somewhere to get them pulled and you need a scanner brought to where the truck is? If you can drive the truck, I would just call around and simply ask any tranny shop if you can stop by and have them pull the codes. Dont go into any detail with them, let em think your gonna need somebody to do the work for you, get a "quote" for the so called rebuild and leave. I had the codes pulled for my truck at 3 different shops and none of them said one thing about charging me for it.

Im at that point now. Im not sure how, but i seemed to have eff'ed it up somehow.
I tried to check out central valve bodies, but it seems as though they are having a new site put up or didn't pay their hosting bill as the site is down.
Anyone have their number handy?
Im looking for a rebuilt vb with new solenoids. i found them on phoenixhardparts.com for a reasonable price, but wanted to check around.
*edit* i found the number and left a message

Just got off the phone with Donnie at Central Valve Body and I should have it by friday. So far, its been a pleasure to deal with them. I called last night after hours and left a message. Donnie called me back this AM, and I placed the order this afternoon. They apparently give ExplorerForum members a discount which was offered when i told him i was refered to him from here.
So, we'll see if it wants to move this weekend.

PS- i also ordered the scanner tool from obd-2.com... that should be here this week as well.

Got my scanner yesterday. The only codes i could get it to show was P1000, and P1701 (reverse engagement error). Drive apparently is not throwing a code at all.