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Bronco2 Duraspark Conversion
- Thread starter igiveup
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You need to find a place to upload them like PhotoBucket, unless you are an elite member of the site. Then you can link the pics from there.
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Holy wires Batman 
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- 84 BII "Li'l Samson"
Good luck on your conversion. Nice pics. You might want to leave a space between those pics so they don't run into each other.
Post some more progress pics when you get a chance. Also I'd cover that carb up. Don't want some crap getting in there and then being sucked down between the valves and pistons after all your work.
Post some more progress pics when you get a chance. Also I'd cover that carb up. Don't want some crap getting in there and then being sucked down between the valves and pistons after all your work.
igiveup
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Hello
2 reasons for all the wires still im 3/4 thru the project and I don't want to cut the wrong wire. All wires going to the computer are gone the rest I still need to double check and connect to their proper place. Also remember that the 85 wiring harness is different than the 83 and 84. Sucks for me. lol.
igiveup
2 reasons for all the wires still im 3/4 thru the project and I don't want to cut the wrong wire. All wires going to the computer are gone the rest I still need to double check and connect to their proper place. Also remember that the 85 wiring harness is different than the 83 and 84. Sucks for me. lol.
igiveup
igiveup
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Hello
Well its done. Need to clean wires up and need to run wires to my dash for OD switch. I haven't set the timing yet but it runs better than what it use to. Now it revs up and wants to go. Pics will come after I clean up wires and fix all vac leaks.
igiveup
Well its done. Need to clean wires up and need to run wires to my dash for OD switch. I haven't set the timing yet but it runs better than what it use to. Now it revs up and wants to go. Pics will come after I clean up wires and fix all vac leaks.
igiveup
igiveup
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Hello
The conversion is done. Still need to hook up my OD switch. I dont know which color on the lockup switch is (+) and (-). Here is some more pics for you.
igiveup
The conversion is done. Still need to hook up my OD switch. I dont know which color on the lockup switch is (+) and (-). Here is some more pics for you.
igiveup
igiveup
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Hello
This comes from http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.htm. I was going to put a 5.0 or 2.9 or a2.3l turbo but with money being tight I decided to play with this idea first. I have a $1000 budget and so far with buying the bronco and doing the conversion I my total so far is $240.
Using The A4LD Transmission With This Conversion:
The A4LD automatic overdrive transmission is a Ford C3 automatic transmission modified with the addition of overdrive. The first version of this transmission has a single electronic control solenoid located in the valve body that moves a valve allowing transmission fluid to flow into the TCC (torque converter clutch) circuit of the transmission. When fluid flows through this circuit it causes the engagement of the TCC. This process is known as "converter lockup". The timing of this lockup is controlled by the ECA (Electronic Control Assembly). The purpose of the clutch is to create a direct positive connection between the engine and transmission. This reduces slippage, thereby limiting the workload on the engine which improves power transmission to the driveline, and fuel economy. Normally the clutch should only engage at a steady highway speed (approximately 45+ MPH) with the transmission shifted into overdrive.
The later models incorporated electronically controlled overdrive as well. This was achieved with the addition of one or more control solenoids for this process.
Ford only offered the first version of this transmission for 2.8L powered Rangers and Bronco II's in 1984, and 1985. In 1986 the OD position on the shift selector was removed, and replaced with an electronic OD shift button. Vehicles equipped with the early version of this transmission require additional steps to complete the Duraspark conversion.
Toggle Switch Method:
It could be possible to control the converter lock up with a toggle switch. The only drawback is you have to judge the correct time to engage it and disengage it yourself. The control solenoid is similar to a relay switch. It is controlled by two wires, positive and negative. The positive wire receives a constant 12V. The negative wire is a controlled ground. This means that with a functional ECA, the computer uses a switching circuit to connect and disconnect the ground. This completes, or breaks the circuit. If you'd like to try the "Toggle Switch Method" this method this is how to do it.
Locate the solenoid connector on the transmission toward the drivers side front on the top of the pan lip
Unplug it and using a test light find the 12V power lead. Now you know the other wire is the ground.
Cut the ground wire about 4" back from the connector. On the connectors side, strip the jacket on the ground wire about 1/2" back. Plug the connector back in and ground the wire you just stripped to the transmission. If you here a click then you know that the solenoid is functional. Unplug the connector again.
Using a length of 16AWG wire long enough to reach into the vehicles passenger compartment butt connect this wire to the ground wire using a 16AWG butt connector. Plug the connector back in.
Route the wire up into the passenger compartment near a suitable switch mounting location. Connect the wire to one terminal of a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) 12V toggle switch. Using a short piece of 16AWG wire connect one end to the other switch terminal and the remaining end to a good ground. Mount the switch and test it out.
Pressure Switch Method:
The second method we have for you utilizes a pressure switch. This is an automatic engagement solution. The pressure switch is installed in the governor portion of the transmission body. When the fluid pressure reaches the switch tolerance the switch closes completing the circuit and energizing the solenoid. This should occur at highway speeds (45+ MPH) when shifted into overdrive
Use the same instructions in the above procedure to determine which wire is the controlled ground.
1) On the passenger side of the transmission toward the back at the bottom near the tail extension locate a protrusion with a hole in the center which resembles a bolt boss. This is the governor area of the transmission. Using a 3/16" drill bit coated with grease to collect shavings carefully drill in the center of this hole until it punches through into the internal chamber
2) Start the engine and let it run for about a few seconds which will force out any remaining shavings (transmission fluid will stream out forcing the remaining debris out).
3) Using an 1/8" pipe thread tap, tap threads into the boss about 1/2" deep. It may be necessary to open up the hole a little prior to tapping. Use the size drill bit recommended on the tap. Run the engine again to force out remaining debris.
4) Thread in a 44-52 PSI pressure switch into the hole
5) Run a hot wire to one side of the transmission plug and the other wire to the controlled ground pressure switch. Drive the vehicle and once you reach highway speed (45+MPH) shift into overdrive and pay close attention to the feel of the shift. If it feels firm and you don't experience erratic "in and out" OD shifting then you were successful. If it does shift "in and out" erratically you may need to experiment with different tolerance pressure switches until you find what works best for you
You can also see this article HERE.
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center sells the pressure switch P/N A4LDPS HERE.
Vacuum Switch:
The last way to control the solenoid is with a Vacuum Switch. The control solenoid is similar to a relay switch. It is controlled by two wires, positive and negative. The positive wire receives a constant 12V. The negative wire is a controlled ground. This means that with a functional ECA, the computer uses a switching circuit to connect and disconnect the ground. This completes, or breaks the circuit.
Locate the solenoid connector on the transmission toward the drivers side front on the top of the pan lip.
Unplug it and using a test light find the 12V power lead. Now you know the other wire is the ground.
Cut the ground wire about 4" back from the connector. On the connectors side, strip the jacket on the ground wire about 1/2" back. Plug the connector back in and ground the wire you just stripped to the transmission. If you here a click then you know that the solenoid is functional. Unplug the connector again.
Butt connect a new wire to the end of the ground wire you stripped coming from the solenoid connector and run the wire in to the drivers compartment.
You need to install a switch where the stop light switch is at the brake pedal. This new switch should normally be open so power runs through it until it's pressed. We haven't found any Ford part numbers but we know that the GM brake switch P/N 25524848 has two connections; one for the brake lights that's closed and opens to send current to the brake lights when you press it. The other is open for the cruise control and interrupts (breaks the connection) when you press it disengaging the cruise control. We don't know for sure if this can be mounted on the Ranger.
From the brake switch, the wire needs to go to a Vacuum Switch (GM P/N 14014519). From the vacuum switch the wire goes to ground.
Once you complete this, the torque converter will go in to lock-up except for when the vacuum is low (under throttle) or when the brakes are applied.
You can find the GM Vacuum Switch P/N 14014519
Parts stores supposedly carry this part but we don't have the part numbers for them yet. Give them the GM P/N and see if they can look it up.
Rock Auto carries them under the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS line P/N VX2 (LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER SWITCH).
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center sells vacuum switches including adjustable vacuum switches on This Page.
This comes from http://therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.htm. I was going to put a 5.0 or 2.9 or a2.3l turbo but with money being tight I decided to play with this idea first. I have a $1000 budget and so far with buying the bronco and doing the conversion I my total so far is $240.
Using The A4LD Transmission With This Conversion:
The A4LD automatic overdrive transmission is a Ford C3 automatic transmission modified with the addition of overdrive. The first version of this transmission has a single electronic control solenoid located in the valve body that moves a valve allowing transmission fluid to flow into the TCC (torque converter clutch) circuit of the transmission. When fluid flows through this circuit it causes the engagement of the TCC. This process is known as "converter lockup". The timing of this lockup is controlled by the ECA (Electronic Control Assembly). The purpose of the clutch is to create a direct positive connection between the engine and transmission. This reduces slippage, thereby limiting the workload on the engine which improves power transmission to the driveline, and fuel economy. Normally the clutch should only engage at a steady highway speed (approximately 45+ MPH) with the transmission shifted into overdrive.
The later models incorporated electronically controlled overdrive as well. This was achieved with the addition of one or more control solenoids for this process.
Ford only offered the first version of this transmission for 2.8L powered Rangers and Bronco II's in 1984, and 1985. In 1986 the OD position on the shift selector was removed, and replaced with an electronic OD shift button. Vehicles equipped with the early version of this transmission require additional steps to complete the Duraspark conversion.
Toggle Switch Method:
It could be possible to control the converter lock up with a toggle switch. The only drawback is you have to judge the correct time to engage it and disengage it yourself. The control solenoid is similar to a relay switch. It is controlled by two wires, positive and negative. The positive wire receives a constant 12V. The negative wire is a controlled ground. This means that with a functional ECA, the computer uses a switching circuit to connect and disconnect the ground. This completes, or breaks the circuit. If you'd like to try the "Toggle Switch Method" this method this is how to do it.
Locate the solenoid connector on the transmission toward the drivers side front on the top of the pan lip
Unplug it and using a test light find the 12V power lead. Now you know the other wire is the ground.
Cut the ground wire about 4" back from the connector. On the connectors side, strip the jacket on the ground wire about 1/2" back. Plug the connector back in and ground the wire you just stripped to the transmission. If you here a click then you know that the solenoid is functional. Unplug the connector again.
Using a length of 16AWG wire long enough to reach into the vehicles passenger compartment butt connect this wire to the ground wire using a 16AWG butt connector. Plug the connector back in.
Route the wire up into the passenger compartment near a suitable switch mounting location. Connect the wire to one terminal of a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) 12V toggle switch. Using a short piece of 16AWG wire connect one end to the other switch terminal and the remaining end to a good ground. Mount the switch and test it out.
Pressure Switch Method:
The second method we have for you utilizes a pressure switch. This is an automatic engagement solution. The pressure switch is installed in the governor portion of the transmission body. When the fluid pressure reaches the switch tolerance the switch closes completing the circuit and energizing the solenoid. This should occur at highway speeds (45+ MPH) when shifted into overdrive
Use the same instructions in the above procedure to determine which wire is the controlled ground.
1) On the passenger side of the transmission toward the back at the bottom near the tail extension locate a protrusion with a hole in the center which resembles a bolt boss. This is the governor area of the transmission. Using a 3/16" drill bit coated with grease to collect shavings carefully drill in the center of this hole until it punches through into the internal chamber
2) Start the engine and let it run for about a few seconds which will force out any remaining shavings (transmission fluid will stream out forcing the remaining debris out).
3) Using an 1/8" pipe thread tap, tap threads into the boss about 1/2" deep. It may be necessary to open up the hole a little prior to tapping. Use the size drill bit recommended on the tap. Run the engine again to force out remaining debris.
4) Thread in a 44-52 PSI pressure switch into the hole
5) Run a hot wire to one side of the transmission plug and the other wire to the controlled ground pressure switch. Drive the vehicle and once you reach highway speed (45+MPH) shift into overdrive and pay close attention to the feel of the shift. If it feels firm and you don't experience erratic "in and out" OD shifting then you were successful. If it does shift "in and out" erratically you may need to experiment with different tolerance pressure switches until you find what works best for you
You can also see this article HERE.
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center sells the pressure switch P/N A4LDPS HERE.
Vacuum Switch:
The last way to control the solenoid is with a Vacuum Switch. The control solenoid is similar to a relay switch. It is controlled by two wires, positive and negative. The positive wire receives a constant 12V. The negative wire is a controlled ground. This means that with a functional ECA, the computer uses a switching circuit to connect and disconnect the ground. This completes, or breaks the circuit.
Locate the solenoid connector on the transmission toward the drivers side front on the top of the pan lip.
Unplug it and using a test light find the 12V power lead. Now you know the other wire is the ground.
Cut the ground wire about 4" back from the connector. On the connectors side, strip the jacket on the ground wire about 1/2" back. Plug the connector back in and ground the wire you just stripped to the transmission. If you here a click then you know that the solenoid is functional. Unplug the connector again.
Butt connect a new wire to the end of the ground wire you stripped coming from the solenoid connector and run the wire in to the drivers compartment.
You need to install a switch where the stop light switch is at the brake pedal. This new switch should normally be open so power runs through it until it's pressed. We haven't found any Ford part numbers but we know that the GM brake switch P/N 25524848 has two connections; one for the brake lights that's closed and opens to send current to the brake lights when you press it. The other is open for the cruise control and interrupts (breaks the connection) when you press it disengaging the cruise control. We don't know for sure if this can be mounted on the Ranger.
From the brake switch, the wire needs to go to a Vacuum Switch (GM P/N 14014519). From the vacuum switch the wire goes to ground.
Once you complete this, the torque converter will go in to lock-up except for when the vacuum is low (under throttle) or when the brakes are applied.
You can find the GM Vacuum Switch P/N 14014519
Parts stores supposedly carry this part but we don't have the part numbers for them yet. Give them the GM P/N and see if they can look it up.
Rock Auto carries them under the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS line P/N VX2 (LOCK-UP TORQUE CONVERTER SWITCH).
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center sells vacuum switches including adjustable vacuum switches on This Page.
Tony Raine
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i like that "hood" over the starter solenoid, duraspark box, etc.... is that a stock part? when my 84 was stock, it didn't have anything like that over the mess of wires that used to be there.
Yumadavis
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- 84 Bronco II
Just starting my own Duraspark conversion ..... 84 BII. Couple of questions, and am open to any hints you may offer? Please!
1 - Are you still running the stock 2150 carb, just plugged up? How is that running>
2- ... I see you ripped the entire harness from the CPU out. Was there anything you had to re-patch back into the harness/fusebox?
3-Which carb do you recommend? The Holley or the 78 Motorcraft?
4- Why did you install the ignition box and coil next to the solenoid? On my 84 all that is on the drivers side next to the red/white wired plug.... Is that an 85 thing?
5- I'm having problems finding the dist cap adaptor? Where did ya find yours? On another site a guy said he pulled his from a 80's 6 F 150 .... Also did you find the harness that connects the module and distributor or did ya make your own?
Thanks in advance, I'd post pics but that just look like the first few on the other site, wires everywhere!
1 - Are you still running the stock 2150 carb, just plugged up? How is that running>
2- ... I see you ripped the entire harness from the CPU out. Was there anything you had to re-patch back into the harness/fusebox?
3-Which carb do you recommend? The Holley or the 78 Motorcraft?
4- Why did you install the ignition box and coil next to the solenoid? On my 84 all that is on the drivers side next to the red/white wired plug.... Is that an 85 thing?
5- I'm having problems finding the dist cap adaptor? Where did ya find yours? On another site a guy said he pulled his from a 80's 6 F 150 .... Also did you find the harness that connects the module and distributor or did ya make your own?
Thanks in advance, I'd post pics but that just look like the first few on the other site, wires everywhere!
jeepshop
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- 1984 BII
We used a 350 cfm carb from a large Ford V8, identified as "1.21" on the drivers side bowl, 2.8's love the bigger carb.
jeepshop
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Can't remember but I don't think we needed to. I do know that the carb is currently running on a '84 Ranger and has a 4.5 power valve, it runs great on the trail too.
igiveup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yumadavis View Post
Just starting my own Duraspark conversion ..... 84 BII. Couple of questions, and am open to any hints you may offer? Please!
1 - Are you still running the stock 2150 carb, just plugged up? How is that running>
2- ... I see you ripped the entire harness from the CPU out. Was there anything you had to re-patch back into the harness/fusebox?
3-Which carb do you recommend? The Holley or the 78 Motorcraft?
4- Why did you install the ignition box and coil next to the solenoid? On my 84 all that is on the drivers side next to the red/white wired plug.... Is that an 85 thing?
5- I'm having problems finding the dist cap adaptor? Where did ya find yours? On another site a guy said he pulled his from a 80's 6 F 150 .... Also did you find the harness that connects the module and distributor or did ya make your own?
Thanks in advance, I'd post pics but that just look like the first few on the other site, wires everywhere!
Hello
1. Yes its still running with the stock carb. It runs like a rich pig.
2. 83 and 84 same harness, 85 is a pain in the ass
3. Since im cheap I will be getting a carb from pinknpull and pray for the best.
4. I figured since I had it apart why not. I was bored.
5. My dizzy came off of a 79 capri with a 2.8. Was hoping to get the carb from it but my trany blew up. I made all of my own wiring harness from the ones I grabed at the junk yard.
Originally Posted by Yumadavis View Post
Just starting my own Duraspark conversion ..... 84 BII. Couple of questions, and am open to any hints you may offer? Please!
1 - Are you still running the stock 2150 carb, just plugged up? How is that running>
2- ... I see you ripped the entire harness from the CPU out. Was there anything you had to re-patch back into the harness/fusebox?
3-Which carb do you recommend? The Holley or the 78 Motorcraft?
4- Why did you install the ignition box and coil next to the solenoid? On my 84 all that is on the drivers side next to the red/white wired plug.... Is that an 85 thing?
5- I'm having problems finding the dist cap adaptor? Where did ya find yours? On another site a guy said he pulled his from a 80's 6 F 150 .... Also did you find the harness that connects the module and distributor or did ya make your own?
Thanks in advance, I'd post pics but that just look like the first few on the other site, wires everywhere!
Hello
1. Yes its still running with the stock carb. It runs like a rich pig.
2. 83 and 84 same harness, 85 is a pain in the ass
3. Since im cheap I will be getting a carb from pinknpull and pray for the best.
4. I figured since I had it apart why not. I was bored.
5. My dizzy came off of a 79 capri with a 2.8. Was hoping to get the carb from it but my trany blew up. I made all of my own wiring harness from the ones I grabed at the junk yard.
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