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Stock 1995 - 2001 Explorers Questions related to non-modified 1995-2001 Explorer, Mountaineer, Ranger and '02+ Sports and Sport Trac. Problem solving, maintenance, TSB, service bulletins, owner reviews, specifications.

door lock wiring diagram

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Old 01-03-2009, 02:19 PM   #1
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door lock wiring diagram

so i wake up and my door locks are going crazy! they just keep unlocking. i searched the forum and someone said the relay was in the back cargo area on the driver side. there are 4 relays in there and im not sure what one is bad. so i pulled them so i could drive around and not have it going crazy. ofcourse this has to happen when its 20 degrees outside..

does anyone have some sort of a diagram that shows what relay controls what function back there? i checked my haynes manual, but no such luck




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Old 01-03-2009, 06:27 PM   #2
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3 of the relays are for Door Lock and Unlock, the 4th one is for trailer tow. I couldn't find a connector diagram for the relay box, but you should be able to figure out which is which from the color codes on the wiring. The diagrams are for 97, but should be the same.
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Old 01-03-2009, 06:42 PM   #3
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thanks so much!! i will get pics of the relay tomorrow.

i guess i just take out the relay and plug a new one in to see if it fixes it, and go through a trial error order? is it possible that more than one went bad?




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Old 01-03-2009, 06:45 PM   #4
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and to tell colors its just the bk/w - bk/y (black/white or black yellow)? just want to make sure im reading this right




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Old 01-03-2009, 06:59 PM   #5
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First color is the body of the wire, second color is the color of the stripe (if any).
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:23 PM   #6
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is it possible that more than one went bad?

Possible, but doesn't seem likely. But, depending upon how much they charge for a new relay, it might be worth replacing the others just so you don't have to take the interior trim apart again.
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:27 PM   #7
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yea, i will price them tomorrow. i might go to a pick and pull and just grab some used ones too (lost my job so money is tight). they are all the same i think




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Old 01-03-2009, 07:36 PM   #8
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Sorry about your job. I lost my job back in Oct. They shut down the company.

It looks like the relays are the same, although the drivers door unlock relay might be different; the terminals are labeled differently on the schematic compared to the other two. I'm not sure if that is because the relays are different or not.
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Old 01-03-2009, 07:49 PM   #9
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mine couldnt make payroll. that was in oct as well. trying to find something, and if i cant i have thought about the military *sigh*

i will look at them and make sure. they all looked the same when i pulled them out.




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Old 01-03-2009, 08:15 PM   #10
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I'm too old for the military. I had an interview with the state DOT for an Equipment Engineer job, but with the Calif budget mess, who knows if they will ever hire anyone. I am taking classes in SolidWorks (solid modeling software) and AutoCad because we didn't use either of those at my last job, but most of the Mech Engineering openings require one or both.

I'm hoping things will pickup in Jan, especially after the inauguration.

Luckily, my GF is still employed but she has been having health issues since I lost my job.

Hang in there, something will work out.
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:25 PM   #11
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it is not likely a relay problem so unless you can take it back, I would save your money.... OR spend it on a meter.
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Old 01-03-2009, 09:59 PM   #12
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it is not likely a relay problem so unless you can take it back, I would save your money.... OR spend it on a meter.
well, whats your opinion? do you have a suggestion?




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Old 01-03-2009, 10:55 PM   #13
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Well, I thought my "opinion" was pretty straight forward... ie. get a meter and measure some things associated with the activation of the relay. Basically, in my opinion, it isn't a relay problem... because the relay is "working" and causing your doors to lock... that's its job. Your problem is something "telling" the relay to operate. That is usually a shorted wire causing a ground condition on the relay coil or a bad switch... first guess would be the cargo switch bad but again, a meter can be used to measure where the "telling" is coming from.
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Old 01-03-2009, 11:20 PM   #14
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Here is the rest of the door lock schematic in case you want to troubleshoot the switches. I haven't had this problem, but I'm inclined to agree that it probably isn't the relay after thinking about it. It is probably a bad switch or possibly a bad ground.
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:38 PM   #15
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I ran across the Relay Box pinout drawing. Did you figure this out yet?
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Old 01-08-2009, 05:07 PM   #16
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not 100% sure yet. i lost the relay i took out (so the doors would stop freakin out). but i used the interior lamp relay, and plugged it in where the other should have been. the door locks would not unlock very well.

so i started unplugging the switches themselves.. and i think i found the culprit. driver side unlock/lock switch. when its unplugged and the relays are in the lock/unlock spots, it works great. i will go to the scrap yard tomorrow and see if i can get another switch and relay.

here is the culprit
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:12 PM   #17
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I'd try and find the newest 2nd gen switch I could. Good luck.
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:04 PM   #18
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mine did this too, unlocks itself over and over my problem was ... wet boots. The wire run under the drivers door got wet and the unlock wire was shorting to ground. also check the wires in the boot to the drivers door they are known to have issues, a chafed wire there will do the same thing. I'm sure that your relays are fine




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Old 01-08-2009, 09:23 PM   #19
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i believe there is a master and slave door lock switch. look at the alignment tab for the switch. the slave will have a brown paint mark on it and the master is black like the plastic body.
perhaps a good idea to take one from a donor vehicle from the same side you need it on.
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Old 02-08-2009, 06:30 PM   #20
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I'd try and find the newest 2nd gen switch I could. Good luck.
the junk yard only had one 2nd gen there.. and it was a passenger side switch(no driver door). it fits, but its upside down.. i also replaced the relay from one i pulled out of the x at the junkyard.

everything works great!! only problem was i am getting a door ajar light now.. unhooked the sensor for the back hatch glass, and that seems to have fixed the problem. its acted up before, but this time i couldnt get it to go off




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