door lock wiring diagram

[dogfriend]

 

[Cobraguy]

Haven't we seen the RAP module cause this exact issue too?

 

[hazmat456]

ok I'm having this problem again! I've tried everything that I can think of to find the problem. I've disconnected the wire harness to every door one at a time, so it's not any one switch or actuator, everything works the way it is susposed to except the theft light and I even tested the bulb and that is good, every time I think I find the problem I wait a few minutes and they will unlock again. So now I'm looking at a modual replacement, but which one the RAP or the GEM??? is there any way to test the modual itself without taking it to ford?

 

[hazmat456]

update: I disconnected the RAP in the back quarter panel, locks still cycled on there own,
disconnected the GEM behind the radio bezel,locks still cycled.
anywhere I could find a connection I took apart and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, went through the wire harness in the doors separated wires made sure they were clean and sprayed with silicone,swapped out the relays.
I can't seem to find a problem,yet the doors keep unlocking and dome light comes on the only way to make it stop is to pull all three relays in the rear quarter.
Dose anyone have any advice for me please?

 

[dogfriend]

Sounds like a bad or loose ground to me. I would check the ground nearest to the switch in each door.

 

[budwich]

well.... you have dione some good testing eliminating the GEM and RAP by unplugging them so you can forget these. Basically, when you say "cycling" are you saying unlock, lock OR unlock, unlock, unlock? IF it is the repeated unlocking, then you only need to focus on the PK/LG wire going to the unlock relay. A little "destructive" testing is then require as there are two of these going to the relay.... take your pick, cut one ( hopefully in such a way that you can remake the connection later). Does your problem go away??? IF not, then that connected wire has a grounding issue (measure / check it with a meter to see the "cycling"). IF it goes away, then the grounding is on the cut wire. Now to find out which wire you cut, check to see if you can use your remote (make sure that you have already plugged all your other stuff...gem,rap... back in) or any of the buttons to lock the door.... which one works??? Once that is determined, then you get to trace the appropriate wire looking for shorts to ground.

 

[hazmat456]

well I haven't cut any wires as of yet, I had some errands to run and while driving around everything was fine, as soon as I turned the truck off and pulled out the key, they started unlocking again. I started checking all of the ground wires I could find, while doing this I would randomly put in or pull out the spare ignition key, not turning it just all the way in or out, I don't recall any unlocking with the key in. problem is with it being random it's hard to tell if I'm accomplishing anything
thanks for the help

 

[hazmat456]

well I went and cut the correct wire, now only the lift gate lock switch will unlock everything, the remote will unlock only the drivers door. I also cut a gr/p ?to the interior light relay, which way still turning on, I can still lock the doors with any method. now I know the problem is in the body somewhere, I've disconnected all the doors one at a time, and if this is turning on the interior light as well, or is that the GEM sensing the unlock and turning it on?
any idea where the PK/LG wire goes from here, dose it go in to the GEM or RAP as well as to the door switches, or is it a direct run to the door switches with only one splice between the two?
sorry for all the questions, but I have already spent two days on this, and if someone already know that sure would make this easier
thanks again'

 

[dogfriend]

any idea where the PK/LG wire goes from here, dose it go in to the GEM or RAP as well as to the door switches, or is it a direct run to the door switches with only one splice between the two?

From the schematic that I posted, it looks like it runs directly from the RAP to the door switches.

 

[hazmat456]

but I cut it at the relays . dose it run from the relays to the rap , because I've unplugged the rap before I did this and the switches still worked, and the locks still cycled. when I did that just the remote and outside keypad did not work.

 

[budwich]

put the knife away doc before you kill the patient... The lights coming on is another issue associated GEM detection of things and turning on "entry lighting".

you cut the "b" connection ( from the schematics).... as expected (somewhat)... I suspect that your problem is near the splice point which IIRC is near the rear passenger area (driver's side)...in the cable runway area in the door sill.

 

[hazmat456]

yeah I got a little cut happy, I could have just pulled that relay, I'll patch it back tonight after work and start looking for the splice

 

[hazmat456]

so I finaly got it fixed, I hope. I took out the rear seat, drivers side, peeled back the carpet and opened up the wire harnes. Then went back and repaired the cuts I had made earlier(it is not easy to solder in that small acess hole), the unlocking had stoped. well I figured that there must have been a nick or short somewhere under the seat, but I followed the wire to the splice where five of them come together, I took that apart resoldered and used a couple of layers of shrinktube, and when I wraped the harness back up I made sure that it was easily accessable and I knew which wire was going where. so far all is good and the truck is alot cleaner now
thanks for your help,

 

[budwich]

I assume that your lights are now working "appropriately" now that your unlocking has stopped. If not, then that problem needs attention.

 

[boss 331]

I know this is an old post, but does anyone know if these wiring diagrams are the same for the 98. The OP has a 96 w/ the RAP and I know the 98 has the PATS. Though I would post here instead of starting a new post. Thanks