Stupidscript
New Member
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- January 2, 2009
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- City, State
- Los Angeles
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 XLS
I used these instructions to get started, but there is a little bit more smooth approach regarding the order of panel section removal, and I wanted to include a little more detail. Thanks, GregV8 for your fine example! This is an expansion on your work.
These instructions are for replacing the 6x8 speakers in a 2002 Explorer XLS using a flathead screwdriver, a 7/32" socket and 1/4" socket, a wirestripper, a pair of scissors and a little heat-shrink tubing ... plus the new speakers. You'll remove the door panel, replace the speaker, and replace the door panel. This is also handy for when you need to replace your window motors, the locks and the armrest controls ... they're right in this same area.
1) CAREFULLY, to avoid scratching the plastic, use a flathead screwdriver (or your fingertips) to pry the top and bottom of the small plastic panel behind the door lever away from the rest of the panel. It has one clip at the top, which you can see next to the screwdriver tip, and one at the bottom in a similar location. There are two tabs that slip into holes on the armrest end. These are pretty flexible.
2) The control pad section has two small clips up against the panel, and a tab that slides under the top of the armrest. Pry it away from the door panel with the screwdriver (or your fingertips) to release the clips, and then lift the front up and away to slide the tab out from under the top of the armrest. You can see the notched tab that mated with the first piece you removed. THIS is why it is necessary to remove the pieces in this order.
3) The driver's, passenger's and rear door control button groups are distinct, but they all have the same types of connectors. Carefully and easily remove these by using the screwdriver the push in the little clips and pry each plug out of the back of the control pad. In addition to the lock and window controls, the driver's side has the rear-view mirror positioning controls to be disconnected. (You can do the speaker replacement without disconnecting the mirror adjustment harness, but there's a teensy bit more room to work if you do disconnect it. It's a weird one that's harder than the rest to disconnect.)
4) The first set of hex-screws you will remove have 7/32" heads. There is one that holds the upper part of each panel, behind the control pad, and then one (for rear panels) or two (for front panels) screws in the lower edge. Remove the one behind the control pad carefully, so that you don't drop it in behind the door's plastic acoustic shielding panel. Use a magnetic wrench or use your fingers when it gets ready to come out.
When the hex-screws are removed, gently lift the panel up, and it will come away from the door. The rear doors use a white plastic acoustic shielding that is lightly glued to the door and the rear panels have fewer attachment points. The front doors use a heavier grey foam acoustic shielding that is very lightly attached, and tends to stick to the panel and its tab-hooks as you pull it away from the door. Be careful to try to keep the shielding as attached to the door as you can, and to not rip it when you pull the panel away. Just be gentle and work carefully. It's not hard or too delicate.
5) Here is the driver's panel pulled away. You can see the mirror control harness still attached in the upper left. Also note the many tab-hooks on the back of the panel. These fit into holes in the door visible in the next photo, which is the passenger door with the speaker also removed.
The speaker hex-screws have 1/4" heads, for some reason.
6) The stock Ford speaker connector gets cut off, the plastic sleeve gets cut down, the ends prepared with a little piece of heat-shrink tubing, the wires connect, the heat-shrink tubing gets shrunk ... voila. You should clean the wires from the harness after you strip the ends and before you attach the new leads because the manufacturing process and deterioration of the sleeve leaves some residue on the copper that will impede your sound fidelity.
LF Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
LF Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
RF Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
RF Speaker Wire (-): Green/Orange
LR Speaker Wire (+): Tan/Yellow
LR Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Light Blue
RR Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
RR Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink
7) Plug in and attach the new speaker.
8) To replace the panel, line up the bottom tab-hooks and the rest will line up, too. Push the panel against the door, and gently slide it back down into place. Replace the 7/32" hex-screws. Don't drop the top one behind the panel by accident!
9) Reconnect the control pad harnesses and slip the rear tab into its slot under the top of the armrest, then snap it back down into position. Replace the small plastic shield behind the door handle by first inserting the rear tabs into their holes then snapping the clips back into place.
You're done!
These instructions are for replacing the 6x8 speakers in a 2002 Explorer XLS using a flathead screwdriver, a 7/32" socket and 1/4" socket, a wirestripper, a pair of scissors and a little heat-shrink tubing ... plus the new speakers. You'll remove the door panel, replace the speaker, and replace the door panel. This is also handy for when you need to replace your window motors, the locks and the armrest controls ... they're right in this same area.
1) CAREFULLY, to avoid scratching the plastic, use a flathead screwdriver (or your fingertips) to pry the top and bottom of the small plastic panel behind the door lever away from the rest of the panel. It has one clip at the top, which you can see next to the screwdriver tip, and one at the bottom in a similar location. There are two tabs that slip into holes on the armrest end. These are pretty flexible.
2) The control pad section has two small clips up against the panel, and a tab that slides under the top of the armrest. Pry it away from the door panel with the screwdriver (or your fingertips) to release the clips, and then lift the front up and away to slide the tab out from under the top of the armrest. You can see the notched tab that mated with the first piece you removed. THIS is why it is necessary to remove the pieces in this order.
3) The driver's, passenger's and rear door control button groups are distinct, but they all have the same types of connectors. Carefully and easily remove these by using the screwdriver the push in the little clips and pry each plug out of the back of the control pad. In addition to the lock and window controls, the driver's side has the rear-view mirror positioning controls to be disconnected. (You can do the speaker replacement without disconnecting the mirror adjustment harness, but there's a teensy bit more room to work if you do disconnect it. It's a weird one that's harder than the rest to disconnect.)
4) The first set of hex-screws you will remove have 7/32" heads. There is one that holds the upper part of each panel, behind the control pad, and then one (for rear panels) or two (for front panels) screws in the lower edge. Remove the one behind the control pad carefully, so that you don't drop it in behind the door's plastic acoustic shielding panel. Use a magnetic wrench or use your fingers when it gets ready to come out.
When the hex-screws are removed, gently lift the panel up, and it will come away from the door. The rear doors use a white plastic acoustic shielding that is lightly glued to the door and the rear panels have fewer attachment points. The front doors use a heavier grey foam acoustic shielding that is very lightly attached, and tends to stick to the panel and its tab-hooks as you pull it away from the door. Be careful to try to keep the shielding as attached to the door as you can, and to not rip it when you pull the panel away. Just be gentle and work carefully. It's not hard or too delicate.
5) Here is the driver's panel pulled away. You can see the mirror control harness still attached in the upper left. Also note the many tab-hooks on the back of the panel. These fit into holes in the door visible in the next photo, which is the passenger door with the speaker also removed.
The speaker hex-screws have 1/4" heads, for some reason.
6) The stock Ford speaker connector gets cut off, the plastic sleeve gets cut down, the ends prepared with a little piece of heat-shrink tubing, the wires connect, the heat-shrink tubing gets shrunk ... voila. You should clean the wires from the harness after you strip the ends and before you attach the new leads because the manufacturing process and deterioration of the sleeve leaves some residue on the copper that will impede your sound fidelity.
LF Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
LF Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
RF Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
RF Speaker Wire (-): Green/Orange
LR Speaker Wire (+): Tan/Yellow
LR Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Light Blue
RR Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
RR Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink
7) Plug in and attach the new speaker.
8) To replace the panel, line up the bottom tab-hooks and the rest will line up, too. Push the panel against the door, and gently slide it back down into place. Replace the 7/32" hex-screws. Don't drop the top one behind the panel by accident!
9) Reconnect the control pad harnesses and slip the rear tab into its slot under the top of the armrest, then snap it back down into position. Replace the small plastic shield behind the door handle by first inserting the rear tabs into their holes then snapping the clips back into place.
You're done!
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