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Power lock bad - plastic gear

FStephenMasek

Active Member
Joined
January 15, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Mission Viejo, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Eddie Bauer V8 RWD
Has anyone else had the power lock on the driver's door go bad? It does not unlock, and makes a rough noise. I took it apart last year, and found a small plastic gear worn away. Fortunately, I was able to flip the gear upside sown on the shaft to fix it, as only half was worn away. It has now failed again. I hate to pay what I am sure will be a high price for the entire power lock assembly. Has anyone else had the problem, and found a better fix? Maybe I can find a clock guy to provide a brass gear...
 



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I'm assuming you are talking about the actuator. They are expensive. Maybe you can find a used one somewhere. I had one go bad on an '03 X, and got an actuator from kbabiak....who supplies used parts on the "Parts Wanted" forum on this site. I don't know if he has parts for an '06 or not.
 






well, one thing you can try is a local machine shop. I had the same thing happen in my trialblazer. Took both driver side and passanger side and gave it to my dad. hes a machinist for a living. So he was able to make replacement out of metal instead of what ever chevy used. Im will probably do the same thing if the one in my x goes
 






I bought the part and just finished replacing it. The steel pawls on a rotating plastic plate on the motor sheft each have a tooth which engages the plastic gear, then slips once the door is locked or unlocked, wearing-out the plastic gear when it slips. I had previosuly disassembled the mechanism and flipped the plastic gear on the shaft, but now both ends are worn out and I had to replace it. Here is the defective part of the actuator assembly:

Picture037-2.jpg


I then took the time to write the following letter to Mr. Alan R. Mulally:

What happens when steel “teeth” or pawls repeatedly contact a plastic gear? You and I know the answer, so why don’t the people who designed the electric door lock actuator assembly, part number 6L2Z-78218A43-AA know that? Or, perhaps they know and do not care?

You are doing good things, but I’ll suggest that this is exactly the kind of poor quality and lack of adequate failure analysis issue every person in FMC needs to understand and avoid.

If you look closely at the item I enclosed, you will see wear at both ends of the plastic gear. I’m handy, so had disassembled the actuator and flipped the gear over on the shaft, but that only lasted for a time. While the $63.49 cost of the new actuator is not a major expense, I’m not your typical customer. Most people would have thought the car less reliable than they want because something such as this broke, had to pay dealer labor to have it changed, and had to mess with dropping off and picking-up the car at the dealer. It all adds up in peoples’ minds.
 






That looks like a power window motor not a lock actuator.. You sure thats the right part??


I bought the part and just finished replacing it. The steel pawls on a rotating plastic plate on the motor sheft each have a tooth which engages the plastic gear, then slips once the door is locked or unlocked, wearing-out the plastic gear when it slips. I had previosuly disassembled the mechanism and flipped the plastic gear on the shaft, but now both ends are worn out and I had to replace it. Here is the defective part of the actuator assembly:

Picture037-2.jpg


I then took the time to write the following letter to Mr. Alan R. Mulally:

What happens when steel “teeth” or pawls repeatedly contact a plastic gear? You and I know the answer, so why don’t the people who designed the electric door lock actuator assembly, part number 6L2Z-78218A43-AA know that? Or, perhaps they know and do not care?

You are doing good things, but I’ll suggest that this is exactly the kind of poor quality and lack of adequate failure analysis issue every person in FMC needs to understand and avoid.

If you look closely at the item I enclosed, you will see wear at both ends of the plastic gear. I’m handy, so had disassembled the actuator and flipped the gear over on the shaft, but that only lasted for a time. While the $63.49 cost of the new actuator is not a major expense, I’m not your typical customer. Most people would have thought the car less reliable than they want because something such as this broke, had to pay dealer labor to have it changed, and had to mess with dropping off and picking-up the car at the dealer. It all adds up in peoples’ minds.
 












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