supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · August 12, 2017

yea, i should have worded that better. it will force it into o/d at 115 mph weather you want it to go or not.
head blew out a head gasket, and a rad. cant remember if there was anything else. that was a bad bad day.

Dono · August 12, 2017

Tim, ill review your tune on the od thing. its always worth double checking. I do make mistakes, lol

ahodges · August 14, 2017

I know I have issues with mine going into o/d even if I have the o/d off button pushed. At some speed (100mph+) that light turns itself off and it allows it to go into o/d. I haven't had mine go into o/d on the track yet, just street racing and I cringe when it happens (I can count on 1 hand how many times that has happened).

The only time I was able to get o/d locked out completely was when I was data logging with a 3rd gear pull.

vroomzoomboom · August 14, 2017

im trying to remember this. i would start off on a pass, would have the o/d lit on the dash (o/d set to off) i think the light would go off either haft way into second gear, or some point in third under wot.

CDW6212R · August 14, 2017

I didn't know that the OD was a problem, I thought tuning could handle it.

I may be able to fix that though, if it's not possible to get the programming to do it. I have two relays in my 95 Crown Vic, that I added to the trans wiring, to lock out both 4th and 3rd. That did what I wanted it too, stopping the signals(3rd/4th) from reaching the trans. I have a switch in an overhead console to control that. I haven't used that in years, but it worked. The 4R70W shift wires see four combinations of power, it's that simple. 1st gear is with no power to either wire, an obvious default first condition. 2nd is OFF/ON, 3rd is ON/OFF, and 4th is ON/ON. That wiring logic is in the ATSG manual somewhere.

For my mail car back then I didn't want it to constantly shift to 3rd, with me slowing down from say 25mph, 200+ times a day. The one downside is that it throws a code after doing it a few times. The CEL light did go out after not using that switched circuit for a few days.

I might be able do that for keeping 4th from happening also, if the other three gears are not altered. It'd be just the right combination of relays and one switch. Hopefully you guys can get the programming to lock out 4th somehow.

vroomzoomboom · September 11, 2017

made a few calls around today. one was to don lasota, the other was to my trans guy eric merkel at erm automotive. eirc told me physicaly the only way i can block od is physicaly blocking the od valve. which would mean dropping the valve body. not gonna happen. cant do a switch like if i was to do a bwm on the v6 transfer cases because there is one solinoide that controls the 1-2 shift, and one that controls the 3-4. don said the limiter should be around the 125 mark, but he is going to try and look into a way from it shifting into od for me.
with that said, the end of racing is coming to a end very soon. im planing on going to the strip on saturday. this thing BETTER hit the 12's or i am going to be uber pissed. if we cant find a way from keeping it from going into od, im going to be forced to run the 20's. which will mean my 60 ft is going to suck, my mph might get better, but its a crap shoot if my e.t. will drop.
this past weekend was also the last big show and shine here, so i spent the sunday there with the kid. there was some pretty nutty stuff there.
like this twin magnuson supercharged avalanche

and also i guy i was playing around with who claims he has a stock 454 in a 80 camaro that i was keeping right beside. however will also say when he puts the nos on, it lifts the tires. i called bullshit to him more then once. especially how his story changed with the gearing. nice try, im not buying it lol
and lastly, 20 years ago ford created something that has changed life for me. today is evils 20th birthday. happy birthday evil......you little wallet drainer you.

ahodges · September 11, 2017

Nice Tim. I can't wait to see your times!

vroomzoomboom · September 11, 2017

same. the weekend cant get here fast enough lol

vroomzoomboom · September 17, 2017

well.....the race cancelled due to weather yesterday. that was a test and tune day. i looked this morning and they were gong to run. problem being its not really a test and tune day, but you could sneak in a few runs before they started eliminations. packed up my junk and drove a hour there for them to say, they are trying to dry and glue the track, but at that time the track was too cold. not wanting to wait around for them to decide i turned around and headed back home (to also see one of the race cars that was pitted beside me back in town here).
i did do a few bonsai runs coming home (the track is in the middle of nowhere, with no cross roads). she will click into od still, but now when it does it, its singing around 6000-6200 rpms going off the stock tac. before if i remember correctly, it would shift into od around 5000 rpms and this is with the same tires that i had on today as well.
they have one more race in 2 weeks before the track closes for the year. i hope the weather holds for that one. going by the seat of the paints, it feels like it will just hit the 12's/ i dont care if its 12.999 because thats still 12's lol

4pointslow · September 17, 2017

Sorry I couldn't return your call, I am up to my ears in problems again.
I have been trying to finish painting the second and third floor hallways and stairways and now I am having transmission problems in my 2004 Ex.
I am currently working on it but had to stop for a minute.

I hope you get to the track and grab that 12 !!!

vroomzoomboom · September 30, 2017

well. today was kinda disappointing in a way. went to the local track today. its their last test and tune of the year.
first problem was the wind. there was a pretty strong head wind which really sucked. everyone said they were down on theirs times.....oh joy.
i had about three tunes in the hand held, and god knows how many in my laptop. messed around with a few things in the truck, and had dono do some small adjustments.
my first run it hit the rev limiter hard going from 1st to 2nd. however, i had don lasota make a change in the trans that would keep it from going into od before the end of the track. low and behold, i was running around 5700 rpms at the lights. last year it hit od at around the 1000 ft mark and would short me about 1000 rpms or more (cant remember for sure what it was).
basically my first, and last runs were the best (only made 4 runs then had to head home, that and there was tons of cars there today)
the last run might have been the best but this was how it played out. the guy in the other lane they had shut down just as he staged which really distracted me (no kidding, with a .977 reaction time?! BLAH!!!). when i did hit it, i felt evil literally lift up, spin (in 4x4) and move to the side. that sucked. then it hit the rev limiter badly again. this resulted in me having to lift to get it to shift faster (i also found out she will hold the connecting rods inside the block while spinning at 6500 rpms). this all while a nice head wind hitting the windshield. today wasnt my day and i now have to wait until next year to figure out how to get int the 12's. who would have thought running a low 13 at 102 mph was disappointing in a 2nd gen

on the left was the fastest 1/4 mile time. on the right is the fastest mph.

and for comparison, this is last years best of everything time slip

i also went and drove evil over the scale at work. she weights in at 4580 with me in it, and about 1/2 tank of gas. i had about 3/4 of a tank at the track today if it makes a big difference

4pointslow · September 30, 2017

One thing I will say, at least this time it held all its fluids in.
This means it is reliable now, and you can focus on getting it faster.

What wheels did you run?
Maybe some traction bars would help with the launch? The Calvert racing ones push the wheels down and the body comes up.
This puts more traction on the rear wheels.

How much boost?
What was timing at WOT, 2000 - 6500 rpm?
What rpm was it shifting at? each gear?

vroomzoomboom · September 30, 2017

when im at the track i am using smaller wheels and tires. i am using stock rims, with a 225/60 15 tire. all runs are in 4x4. the reasons why i use them are with the 20's on i have to run spacers. not real keen on the idea of using spacers at the track. plus with the smaller tire size, i get out of the hole faster which makes the motor spin up faster. this time it bit me in the ass. a friend of mine has a set of slicks (27x10.5 15) that i really wanted to use, but when i found out about them i didnt have the time to see if i had a spare set of rims kicking around on one of the parts trucks. that and i wasnt sure if they would fit without rubbing. if they rubbed, game over. trust me, caltracks are on the wish list.
boost, i hate to say it, but i never did glace at it. i am guessing it was about 7lbs.
now if i am reading the log correctly on the first and last pass i did, it looks like timing was at 17 at 2000, 19 at 3000, then around 20 at 4000 then around 19 at 5000. im sure when dono sees this post, he will correct me
now rpms are a different story, and this was my screw up. a few weeks back we were trying to set the shift points at certain rpms as well as the rev limiter. when i did this, i wasnt using the tires i use at the track, but the 20s. things happen way faster using the smaller tire because well, they are smaller. going from first to second, it would bounce off the limiter at 6500, second to third it would shift at 6000 (which is were i wanted it to) then i would be off the throttle going through the traps at 5600 when last year i would be going through at under 5000 in overdrive

CDW6212R · October 1, 2017

I think those 15's you are using only at the track, are a big problem affecting how the shifts are being tuned. I'd get a set of wheels/tires put together that you can run anywhere, tune for them on the street etc. With say a 29" tire or very close to the diameter of your normal tires(the 20's), then you can fine tune the shifts very well, and have it run similarly when you have the nice wheels/tires on.

Stock 16's were 30" tall, a 255/70/16. I chose a 255/65/16 for my mail truck, to keep the width but drop it an inch in diameter(better handling).

I think anything in the 255-275mm range should work well for 4WD traction, but adjust the diameter for the rpm you see at 1280 feet. The stock type wheels are too narrow for a wider tire, and the Mustang wheels of 94-04 are offset a little too much to run without spacers and a very wide(275) tire. Those are about 30mm or so, and it needs to be down closer to 20mm to have clearance for 275mm tires.

Just my thoughts, I'd come up with a better set of track tires, which are closer to your street tires.

Dono · October 2, 2017

Tim, I think you need to see what Don Lasota says about bouncing off the rev limiter going from 1st to 2nd

Last I looked, the shift schedule was set to shift at something like 5600 rpm. I think taking 900 rpm to shift, and still not shifting is very odd. I know it can take a few hundred rpm to complete a shift after its commanded, but sheesh.....900 rpm?

4pointslow · October 2, 2017

Are the shift tables in rpm? Mine are in MPH.
The faster the engine accelerates the quicker the shift has to happen.
Smaller tires will definitely affect this, so will gear ratio changes in the differential.
I had problems bouncing of the rev limiter when I changed to 4.88 gears.
I tuned it out in the summer but found that when it got colder I would hit the rev limiter again and had to lower the MPH that the shift would happen.

Dono · October 2, 2017

Yes, you adjust MPH in ours also, but your shown the rpm (Calculated rpm, obviously). I thought that even with the smaller tires, 5600 would be super safem since the rev limiter is at 6400.
I havn't done the math, but I'm pretty sure Evil should still shift before 6400, even with smaller tires.

4pointslow · October 2, 2017

My rpms listed in the stock tables made no sense. I think some were saying 7,000 or more.
I ignore them and just lower the mph until it stops hitting the rev limiter.
Rate of acceleration in first gear is super fast too, probably the one that would be furthest off.

Dono · October 2, 2017

There's no mph in the logs I have from Tims Runs down the quarter mile, but you can see how fast the rpm's are rising and the sample rate logging. For anyone new here that is tuning in, Analog 1 is the a/f ratio. See where the rev limiter is kicking in at 6334 rpm? See the jumps in rpm being sampled? Logging mph would have really helped troubleshoot this.

4pointslow · October 3, 2017

I have also found that you can not always trust the rpm readings(and some others) at wide open throttle when the rpms go way up.
Things happen so fast I don't think the refresh rates of the datalogger can keep up.
So my rev limiter is set to 6250 but I have been bouncing off of it and had the datalogger still read something lower like 5999 because it could not refresh quick enough.
I am told that having a chip plugged into the back of the PCM, and datalogging through it would be a faster refresh rate since it would be raw data.
I have never experimented with chip tuning yet though, I may try it someday. It is older technology but if datalogging can be done with faster refresh rates it might be worth it just for that feature. Newer PCM's don't even have a slot for one now.(chip).

For tuning out Tim's problem, just take the highest mph number in his tune for the 1-2 shift, and remove 2-4 mph and road test with same wheels on to see if it is gone. Keep in mind that street conditions may be different than track conditions, traction can affect things drastically.
So that number in red in Tim's 1-2 shift table which is set to 47, try 45-43 and see what it does.

supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

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Hauls the mail.

Elite Canuck STOCK SUCKS!

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