inh
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- June 30, 2005
- Messages
- 1,287
- Reaction score
- 5
- City, State
- Springfield(ish), MO
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '00 XLS
This thread originally appeared here, though the pictures were unavailable. I have decided to rescue the pictures from the depths of Internet hell and repost the thread here so that others may use this info. I was sucessful in getting 5 of the 6 images, although I feel the first two are all that is needed. Below is the original text of the thread.
Hey guys, I thought I'd help you out a bit with some pictures of my cam removal. There's alot of questions floating around latly about doing a cam swap so I thought I'd show some of mine.
These first pictures help to dispell the doubt that you must remove the heads to remove the cam because the lifters won't come completly out of the bores with the heads on. I use to think it wasn't possible myself until Sven told me otherwise. I used steel tie wire used for safety tie wiring bolt heads. I think its .035 stainless steel wire. Its available at any good parts house, not autozone.
Lifters held by wire
Lifters held by wire, close up shot
This next picture shows the timing chain and tensioner. There are two 10mm headed bolts that hold it on. Also, note the CLEAN shop rag stuffed in the front of the oil pan to help prevent any debree from getting in the oil pan and it also helps catch those two 10m bolts if they happen to fall. Also, you may wanna go ahead and line the engine up on TDC before you remove the chain, on the 4.0 TDC is the keyway straight up on the crank. The torx head bolt on the cam gear is a Torx T55.
**Be careful, when you remove these two bolts the tensioner will spring apart. There will be a long spring inside the tensior along with a small metal peice that rides behind the plastic arm**
Camshaft tensioner and chain
After you get the timing chain and gear off you will see a plate holding the cam in place with two torx head bolts T30's. Remove these two bolts and slide the plate downward and out.
Camshaft holding plate ( I was unable to retrieve this picture)
When you have that out goto the rear of the engine and remove the oil pump drive. On a later 4.0 with a cam posistion sensor this will be located on top of this. It is held in by one 13mm headed bolt and slides straight up. It may take a small screw driver to pop it loose, nothing major though. This must be removed beofre you attempt to pull the cam.
Oil pump drive
Finally the cam removal. You must remove the radiator and I'm not sure but you MAY be able to slide the a/c condensor up enough to get the cam out. As you can see by this picture it comes all the way out past the core support, so the a/c condensor must be moved a bit. I don't have a/c so its not a problem with mine.
Camshaft Coming out
I hope I've helped a little to show you whats involved in removing the cam from a OHV 4.0. I didn't go over stuff like timing cover removal or lower intake but if you gonna swap the cam you should know that you'll have to remove those as well. don't have my new cam yet so I'm kinda stuck for this weekend as for reassembly but I think the wife would be upset if I did try to do it on Mother's day anyways .
Let me know if you have any questions, later Doug904.
Hope that helps some of you out. -INH
Hey guys, I thought I'd help you out a bit with some pictures of my cam removal. There's alot of questions floating around latly about doing a cam swap so I thought I'd show some of mine.
These first pictures help to dispell the doubt that you must remove the heads to remove the cam because the lifters won't come completly out of the bores with the heads on. I use to think it wasn't possible myself until Sven told me otherwise. I used steel tie wire used for safety tie wiring bolt heads. I think its .035 stainless steel wire. Its available at any good parts house, not autozone.
Lifters held by wire
Lifters held by wire, close up shot
This next picture shows the timing chain and tensioner. There are two 10mm headed bolts that hold it on. Also, note the CLEAN shop rag stuffed in the front of the oil pan to help prevent any debree from getting in the oil pan and it also helps catch those two 10m bolts if they happen to fall. Also, you may wanna go ahead and line the engine up on TDC before you remove the chain, on the 4.0 TDC is the keyway straight up on the crank. The torx head bolt on the cam gear is a Torx T55.
**Be careful, when you remove these two bolts the tensioner will spring apart. There will be a long spring inside the tensior along with a small metal peice that rides behind the plastic arm**
Camshaft tensioner and chain
After you get the timing chain and gear off you will see a plate holding the cam in place with two torx head bolts T30's. Remove these two bolts and slide the plate downward and out.
Camshaft holding plate ( I was unable to retrieve this picture)
When you have that out goto the rear of the engine and remove the oil pump drive. On a later 4.0 with a cam posistion sensor this will be located on top of this. It is held in by one 13mm headed bolt and slides straight up. It may take a small screw driver to pop it loose, nothing major though. This must be removed beofre you attempt to pull the cam.
Oil pump drive
Finally the cam removal. You must remove the radiator and I'm not sure but you MAY be able to slide the a/c condensor up enough to get the cam out. As you can see by this picture it comes all the way out past the core support, so the a/c condensor must be moved a bit. I don't have a/c so its not a problem with mine.
Camshaft Coming out
I hope I've helped a little to show you whats involved in removing the cam from a OHV 4.0. I didn't go over stuff like timing cover removal or lower intake but if you gonna swap the cam you should know that you'll have to remove those as well. don't have my new cam yet so I'm kinda stuck for this weekend as for reassembly but I think the wife would be upset if I did try to do it on Mother's day anyways .
Let me know if you have any questions, later Doug904.
Hope that helps some of you out. -INH
