Cam chain noise due to hydraulic tensioner?

Dick Berg · July 4, 2010

1997 4x4 Explorer, 4 liter SOHC engine, 103K miles.
Sarted with a ticking noise that I thought was a valve sticking so I added a product that said it would free sticking valves.
No help, and after a few hundred miles the noise got worse and now it kind of sounds like a diesel. Noise seems to be coming from the front of driver's side engine, and is always there.
The car drives very well, although the idle has become a little bit rough.
I read up on the 00M12 recall that Ford had a number of years ago, but this was addressing noise only when cold.
Is it possible that if the hydraulic tensioner itself has failed in some manner that it would cause noise at all times?
I'm planning on installing the 00M12 since it isn't that big of a job on the outside chance that it will resolve the noise.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dick

janolsson · July 4, 2010

At the same time as you do the kit or even before it may be worth dropping the oil pan. You can carefully drain the oil and reuse if it's relatively new. I would drain into a funnel with a seive also. The reason for dropping the pan and using the seive is to look for bits of plastic that are parts of the front guides. Usually if the rattle is present constantly if one or more of the guides has broken. As for the initial tick, by adding the stuff you have altered the characteristics of the oil. This engine needs a fairly free flowing oil to supply the valve train and the tensioners!! It may well be worth dropping the pan as i said and replacing oil + filter.
If you find bits then you will be looking at diong some more surgery but if not then go ahead with the 00m12 kit
HTH

2000StreetRod · July 4, 2010

Pull the left valve cover

Since you have to remove the upper and lower intake manifolds to install the 00M12 kit, I suggest that you remove the left valve cover and check the upper part of the guide assembly for damage.

Dick Berg · July 4, 2010

Thanks very much for the replies.
I had planned on at least draining the oil through a filter to look for any bits of debris. If there is junk present, then I'll know that I'll have to do more than just the 00M12 kit.
From what I have read, dropping the pan is near impossible without some major disassembly of the underside of the engine, especially since it's a 4wd. Is this true?
I was curious if anyone had cured a constant noise with just the 00M12 kit.
Does anyone know how to tell if the hydraulic tensioner has failed after removing it? That is, by visual inspection and/or measurements of some kind.

Thanks again,
Dick

janolsson · July 5, 2010

Hey Dick
Sorry i didn't rad your thread properly the first time but if the noise is all the time i would bet that one or more of the guides have failed.
As for dropping the pan it is easy to drop the lower pan on a SOHC. You can easily access all the bolts and plenty of clearance to get the pan out. You need to drop the pan to find the bits of guide and also remove the oil pick up filter (2 Torx30 bolts) to clean out the bits as these will restrict the oil flow. If no bits are found then go ahead with the kit.

Dick Berg · July 5, 2010

Jan - Thanks again for your support. You were correct. When I dropped the pan, there were about 6 pieces of white plastic, each around 1 to 2 cm across.
Now I'm committed to the bigger job than just replacing the hydraulic tensioner.
I have the shop manual for the vehicle, and it shows what they call a "cassette" that surrounds/guides the chain between the cam gear and the the gear on the jackshaft. It also shows a cassette holding bolt on the front of the head.
Are the plastic pieces likely from the cassette? Is the cassette the same as what you called the guide?
If the plastic pieces are indeed from the cassette, can it be replaced without tearing further into the engine? And will this resolve the noise, at least for the time being?

Thanks,
Dick

janolsson · July 6, 2010

Dick
The front timing cover off and valve covers off is a must to do the front. Can be done with the engine in as long as the rear is ok. If you have the equipment and the time i would advise doing the rear as well as once the top gubbins and the rad and accessory brackets are off then getting the motor out isn't much more work. If you don't want to go that far them doing the front in vehicle is not massively difficult.
You will need a balancer puller with longer bolts, the timing tool kit and torque wrench over the normal wrenches etc.
The cassette is for the Jack shaft to cam and includes guides, chain and sprockets.
If you can afford a bit of down time for your car i would advise pulling the front cover and seeing what needs replacing before you buy the stuff. If you have the balance shaft i.e. 4x4 then you may need to replace the guides for the chain from the crank to balance shaft which can only be done by dropping the upper sump (engine out). If that guide/tensioner is ok the you can replace the main chain guides and the cassette guides. You can buy just the required guides and tensioners along with the 000m12 kit and a new oil filled tensioner for the rear cassette. If the chains and sprockets don't look too worn (I'm guessing they won't) then you can reuse the old ones to save a few $.This would require the sprockets to be removed and as such the engine will need to be retimed using the kit. If you search for threads by 2000StreetRod and cjmedina on timing chains they have both got a long thread with loads of info and pictures.
It may all seem daunting but if you follow step by step the info available and take your time it isn't too bad
Good luck

Edit Just to add; new timing cover gasket set req along with new jackshaft bolt (torque to yeild bolt) and new balancer bolt. Other bolts can be reused

Spdrcer34 · July 6, 2010

I have used the A/C pump to A/C Bracket bolts (4 LONG ones) to pull the Harmonic Balancer.....Perfect Length, Right Thread Pitch, and they're already there, no need to buy new ones.

Ryan

janolsson · July 6, 2010

Spdrcer34 said:
I have used the A/C pump to A/C Bracket bolts (4 LONG ones) to pull the Harmonic Balancer.....Perfect Length, Right Thread Pitch, and they're already there, no need to buy new ones.

Ryan

Great tip Ryan
Don't you just love forums for stuff like that. :chug:

Dick Berg · July 7, 2010

Jan - You're absolutely right, these forums are fantastic.
Ryan - Thanks for the hint, I'm going to use it.
There's nothing that can take the place of experience, and people sharing their knowledge.

Regards,
Dick

janolsson · July 7, 2010

Hi Dick check out this sticky for guide part numbers
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227038
I have also seen other bits shown in threads for the part numbers.
From the bits you have found you can match them to pics on this site to give you an idea of what is broken

To give an example i just got some bits out of the spare engine thats in the car at the mo and from these i know i'm gonna have to do the rear and front cassettes at minimum.

Dick Berg · July 8, 2010

Does anyone out there know if I can change the balance shaft tensioner by just removing the front timing cover?
I'm planning on replacing any and all guides and tensioners that I can access after removing the front cover. It looks like the primary chain tensioner and guide and the balance shaft guide should be accessible, but the balance shaft tensioner appears to be below the opening.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dick

janolsson · July 8, 2010

The balance shaft tensioner is affixed via bolts that go upwards into the block i.e. can only be accessed by removing the upper sump, sorry. Chances are the tensioner is fine but the guide is broken.

Dick Berg · July 9, 2010

Jan - Thanks for the information, I was afraid of that.
I would guess that dropping the upper sump is a major project, and I just want to replace what's broken. Will I be able to see and/or feel if the balance shaft tensioner is broken without dropping the upper sump?
Dale (2000SreetRod) is of the opinion that baseed on my symptoms, it's the primary (crank to jackshaft) guide and/or tensioner. Hopefully, he's right since these look to be easily replaceable after removing the front cover. Is this correct?
Another question - the gasket that comes with the front cover looks like it covers the sides and around the top. What about a gasket on the bottom surface where the timing cover contaacts the upper sump?
Speaking of gaskets, do you use any products in conjunction with the the gaskets to help sealing?

Thanks again,
Dick

janolsson · July 10, 2010

Dick
The upper sump gasket mates the bottom edge of the timing cover. A line of RTV should be used on both bottom outside corners and the bottom inner corners(near the crank surround if you know what i mean). When attaching the front cover i would hand tight all the bolts first then tighten to torque the bottom (through the upper sump) first then torque the others.

Dick Berg · July 10, 2010

Jan - Thanks for the response, it's very much appreciated.
I apologize for the continuing questions, I just want to make sure that I have a plan and all of the necessary parts and other stuff to do the job properly (and only once).
I guess that's the engineer in me.

Regards,
Dick

janolsson · July 10, 2010

Just in case this helps i took this photo of the balancer tensioner for you. (The engine is upside down on a stand)

Dick Berg · July 12, 2010

Jan - Great picture, thanks.
If the balancer tesioner has failed, is it a big job to drop the lower sump with the engine in the vehicel?
Also, will I have to remove the power steering pump and bracket to remove the front cover?

Regards,
Dick

janolsson · July 12, 2010

You can drop the upper sump with the motor in the vehicle but as i stated before it is difficult to get it back in the right place at the rear end. The rear has to be flush with the block within 0.025" and if not the tranny will push/pull on the thing and break the seal on the gasket. If you find you have to change out the balance tensioner then do yourself a favour and pull the motor. Gives you more room to work and you can be sure you seal the upper sump properly.
As for removing the steering pump i think yes but it take a few minutes and not difficult. the air con pump can stay on the bracket and just swing it out of the way into the battery tray (with battery out).
If the plastic sealing washer on the power steering pump line is chewed up you can reseal the conection on refitting using some PTFE tape.

Dick Berg · August 23, 2010

Front Cover Seal Placement

Can anyone out there help me confirm that I've installed the front cover seal properly?
I bought the tool for aligning and installing the seal from SPX. It's OTC P/N 303-093.
There is a shoulder on the tool that determines the installed depth of the seal in the bore. After installing the seal with the tool, it's recessed about 5/16th of an inch from the front face of the cover. Is this the correct placement of the seal? I think it is, but I just want to make sure.
Also, when trying to remove the oil galley plug to install the 00M01 kit, I stripped the grooves on the T30 Torx. I have tried every tool that I have for removing it, but it's really in tight. Can anyone advise of any techniques for removing it without causing more damage. If I drill it out a bit, I could probably find a tool to remove it, but I'm concerned about making things worse. Or am I better off just leaving it in place, as-is?

Thanks,
Dick Berg

Cam chain noise due to hydraulic tensioner?

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