Cracked Tansmission Case - WELD? | Ford Explorer Forums
  • Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street

    Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator,
    Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar

    Register Today It's free!

Cracked Tansmission Case - WELD?

R

ragajungle

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 8, 2008
Messages
1,022
Reaction score
4
City, State
Chicago, IL
Year, Model & Trim Level
89 BroncoII & 05 Taurus
Small crack on a 5r55e (just above the REV/LOW servo). It is causing the REV line pressure to escape (leaking in REV profusely) and no REV. I am gonna try JB WELD, but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this? What did you do to fix it?
Thanks,
Mike
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.











I doubt if it will hold, due to the expansion and contraction of aluminum from cold to hot also it has to hold around 200 psi of pressure. Trying it only wastes some time, so give it a shot. Another case or trans is probably the only way out. Depending on where the crack is, welding might not work either.
 






might as well try it, but im very doubtful :(
 






When I found out what it was I was astonished - never heard of such a thing (guess b/c I am wet behind the ears still :D ) Anyways I googled "Cracked Transmission Case" and TON of hits populated, GM, Honda, Infinity, Mercedes... I guess the quality of aluminum is poor nowadays. I guess seepage is a big issue b/c of porous aluminum too.

Anyways My Crack (snicker snicker) looks like it is coming from the pattern seams (where the casting patterns meet up in casting) it almost looks like when they were removing the excess flashing they removed too much?

200 psi in my transmission? I thought line pressure was lower than that?
 






here is a pic to better describe where it is leaking:

a4ld_REFERENCE.jpg


Right near the step for the REV LOW servo, assuming thats why no REV??? I am hoping it is that and not that the band broke and hit the side of the case causing leak -
 






Line pressure is lower but reverse gets a boost. Would post a chart but seems I can't or don't know how.
 












There are also cold weld aluminum rods that might work. They melt under much lower temps (like propane torch) and are very strong. I've used them to repair an aluminum toolbox and they held surprisingly well. here is one company that sells them there are many versions of the same thing around. I got mine from JC Whitney

http://www.alumiweld.com/
 






manaen said:
There are also cold weld aluminum rods that might work. They melt under much lower temps (like propane torch) and are very strong. I've used them to repair an aluminum toolbox and they held surprisingly well. here is one company that sells them there are many versions of the same thing around. I got mine from JC Whitney

http://www.alumiweld.com/
Click to expand...

THAT is awesome! I will definitely be getting some of that! I remember seeing an infomercial years ago for it or some similar product...cant believe I dint think of it!

Thanks a Million!
 






That's for the 4ALD, the 5R55E has higher pressures, stall in reverse is 270 to 290 on the chart that I have. Mine will peg a 300 psi gauge, but I have boosted pressures.
 






NP... Glad I could help.

just make sure you clean the area very well with something like brake cleaner (spray can stuff) and then use a stainless brush to clean the aluminum or else the rods wont stick properly. Your biggest problem is going to be oil seepage from the crack and being able to get the part hot enough without frying your reverse servo. Your best bet would be to drop the pan and remove the servo and then patch the crack. I hope it works out for you this is definitely a weird problem...
 






great pointers! I was planning on dropping the pan and REV LOW servo too. I will probably have to drop the transmission to gain access to the crack and make sure I can clean it properly... I haven't dropped a trans yet, but I am sure it is more doable than a $1900 dollar replacement. Thanks again for the help!I will make sure to post up pics of the process next weekend!
 






Post back as I have removed and can help if needed.
 






yeah please post your results to this thread hopefully it works out well...
 






PopRichie Thanks! Will do.

I know I am gonna have to get a 12 point ratcheting box wrench to get the yoke bolts off- just not sure what size? I also heard - from reading posts that to get one of the bell housing bolts you need a swivel head wrench - any tips like that would be much appreciated..
 






Okay so the tow truck driver cant bring my Ex home (stranded 70 miles away) til monday now.... this shoots my plan of dropping the trans this weekend down) But i did got o a great little welding shop today and got some great insight on brazing Aluminum,,, he even had the Alumaloy Rods.

1/2 lb of rods for $5.65--brazing rods

"Arcair" Aluminum Deoxidizer Solution $18.95--used to clean and de-oxidize Aluminum for better adhesion

"TempilStick" Preheating stick $9.95 ---used to mark area so you know when it is hot enough to begin brazing

MAP Gas -- will heat up Aluminum sufficiently to achieve brazing with Alumaloy Rods.

I will start dropping the tranny Monday after work, I'll make sure to take notes as to what tools I need/use and grab some pics. I'll probably/hopefully start brazing Tuesday after work.
 






So the Ex Sport was delivered today battery dead and now a check engine light..............................................................................................................................................I am having a wee bit of buyers remorse, but once I charged the batt and heard how beautifully it runs I feel a little better.


So Up on ramps now and pulling the trans looks more and more like something I am not feeling like doing - ripping off exhaust, dropping ujoints, etc...


Looking at my sawzall, then back at prospect job, then back at sawzall... I wonder if it wouldn't just be easier cutting a 12 in access panel above the trans crack area and brazing it through the access panel instead of a week + of wrestling with this job (me being grossly unequipped to do it..) would it be easier to weld or pop-rivet the metal back in the floor board? Any thoughts? I am probably nuts for even considering it, but it worked damn good above my B2's fuel pump:p:
 






I cut a section of the floorboard out yesterday, I discovered a gian hole in the transmission--bout the size of a nickel. Airing on the side of caution I decided to NOT "WELD or braze the transmission. I started to preheat the area and, even with the fluid and servo out, and a thorough cleaning with brake cleaner it still smoldered and nearly caught fire...I instead decided to JB WELD the hole. If it doesn't work I guess I'll have tol buy a new transmission..

Bummed, But HOPEFUL!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.





The JB Weld holds!

But, I still have no REV despite updated VB, Good pressure, new fluid/filter... Guess time to get a new transmission...
 






Explorer Features

Featured image Featured image Featured image Featured image Featured image Featured image

Explorer Features

Featured image Featured image Featured image Featured image Featured image

Similar threads

2
transfer case cracked...How to FIX?
Replies
5
Views
4,641
Glacier991
G
S
Seriously??? Cracked transmission case 2003
Replies
12
Views
6,748
Munchies
M
B
t-case cracked after swap
Replies
3
Views
1,391
btimm86
B
I
Cracked Transfer Case
Replies
8
Views
4,508
jrford
J
S
Transfer Case Crack Near Drain Plug, 2002 XLT
Replies
6
Views
11,460
sfbayjay
S

Featured Content

Back
Top