Where o where is the factory disarm wire ??

98 Explorer XLT - I'm getting to the end of my first remote start/entry/alarm install. I need to find the Factory Disarm wire. According to the chart from the12volt.com it is a Dark Green/Purple wire, located in the "4 pin connector" in "driver's Kick Panel".

Well, I can't find any "4 pin connector". And I've looked at every wire in the big bundle in the Driver's kick panel and none of them looks Dark Green/Purple
(saw 3 which were green/purple, one a little thicker than the other 2, but they weren't dark green).

Anyone know how to find this Factory Disarm wire?

Okay, I was advised that the "dark" in "dark green/purple" is not really all that "dark", so I should look for green/purple in the driver kick panel bundle of wires.

Well, I found 3 green/purple, as mentioned above.

How can I test to know which one to use?

You need a wiring manual for your specific make, model, year, and knowledge of basic electronics. The manual can be bought off ebay. The knowledge can be learned from any low level textbook. After that you will know to use a multimeter: the most fundamental electrical tool one can have. Or you can ignore this and hope you don't accidentally release the magic smoke.

I have been working with electronics - using multimeters and other test equipment you have never even heard of - for over thirty years, which is way before you were even born, based on your juvenile response. You need knowledge of basic socially appropriate behavior, which your parents should have taught you, but since they didn't maybe you can find a book on the subject. Or you can ignore this and keep making a jerk of yourself.

Forum such as this are for people to help each other by sharing experiences, not as an outlet for people with a need to feel superior to others to compensate for their feelings of insecurity.

You will have to forgive my attempt at humor. However, it appears you are using a questionable source for your wiring information which can throw the best people off. The wiring and anti-theft systems changed from year 1997 to 1998 which, if you were using that generalized source, you may not realize. I purchased a wiring manual for my year from ebay and it has served me well.

There is no way for me to know the experience level of people on here. Sometimes the colors given do not agree with what is actually there, and ford even changed wiring mid-year. Given your experience I would expect you to test each likely wire while triggering the remote disarm. Since you did not appear to do that I thought you lacked basic troubleshooting skills. If that were the case I would rather tell you to learn how to do things correctly instead of possibly giving you the confidence to cause yourself greater headaches.

My apologies, perhaps this will help you: PATS search

OneLever, I'm sorry for my strong reaction. Obviously I took your intentions very differently from what you intended, please accept my apology.

I'm a little familiar with PATS since I used to have a 99 Taurus, but your mention of it gives me an idea. Tomorrow I'll take the left rear interior panel off to expose the alarm unit, and check each of the 3 wires in the kick panel for continuity with the green/purple one coming out of the unit. If none, or more than one, I'll just take the panel with the floor jambs off and follow the wire.

PATS in 1998?

I may be mistaken, but I thought PATS was not implemented until 1999.

Certainly sir, yesterday was a long day for me.

I was recently looking into wiring my own remote start to be triggered by the remote unlock of my RAP module. That system only needs to be disabled by either the remote signal or door disarm switch. Your situation may be worse though because I believe the PATS system reads an RFID chip embedded in each key when it is place in the ignition switch. To overcome that you might need either an aftermarket module to simulate the RFID code or make your own micro controller do the same. For a simple unlock with no remote start this thread may help you.

2000StreetRod said:

I may be mistaken, but I thought PATS was not implemented until 1999.

Click to expand...

I'm not certain since 1997 is the only wiring manual I have. This thread said the switch happened in 1998, but that might be wrong. Hopefully someone with a 1998 wiring manual will chime in.

The 98's definitely have PATS, I just got the Explorer and the seller only had 1 key to give me, so I had to pay $105 - most places wanted more - for 2 more keys + programming. He had to program it to accept the extra keys ( I could've done this myself if I had 2 keys already, but with only 1 key they have to do it.)

Yes, I need a bypass module, I have one on order which I should get next week, I won't be able to test this all out until I receive and install it. I chose the iDatalink ADSTBSLKO , it works with Ford PATS, does not require putting a programmed key inside it as some do, rather it has its own transponder which I would use 2 of my existing keys to program the computer as if it were another key being added to the system. Only $12 from amazon.

Back to the disarm wire - I pulled the rear panel over the pats module, traced it, and ... it wasn't any of the 3 green/purple wires I thought. The "dark" really is dark green, but sort of a muddyish olive green, when mixed with the purple stripe it looks at first glance like a brownish mess, so that's why my old eyeballs didn't recognize it at first.

That was the last wire I had to go to complete the unit's installation, so now it's just waiting for the bypass module to test everything.

Glad to hear you could trace it. I think the colors fade on these wires because I often have to use a headlamp to identify them. Continuity testing is a great place to start on any wiring modification. What alarm/remote start system are you using? I'm sure many people would be interested to know how this works with the winter cold coming.

I chose the Scytek Galaxy 5000RS. It's two-way, up to 1 mile range, they give you 2 full lcd remotes instead of 1 + a one-way non-lcd spare, only $118 (amazon).

If anyone's thinking of doing this, I recommend removing the drivers seat while doing the install. Much easier that way.

Nothing like disconnecting the battery and realizing you forgot to move the seat back. I kick myself for it every time.

Got the bypass module and installed it. Tried remote start and .. didn't start. Finally figured out that the oem hood pin switch bracket needed to be bent upwards a little so the hood closing will push the pin down enough to trigger the switch.

Remote start works great! Alarm arming/disarming work fine - cute chirps, parking light flashes, dome light goes on when disarming, etc. Only sad thing is that when you lock/arm the alarm with the new system's remote, you can no longer use the keypad, it doesn't know about the aftermarket alarm to disarm it, so it will go off. Maybe I'll research this a little more if I really want the use of the keypad.

on the 98 its a light green & purple in the drivers kick panel.. Your also gonna need a bypass module.