Driver's door lock actuator fatiguing door metal

OK, I've got 2 problems with my driver's side door lock.

First, if I lock the doors with the interior switch and shut the door, the remote will not unlock the driver's door. Instead I have to click the remote twice, open the left rear door, reach through to open the driver's door.

This happens EVERY time I use the interior switch (or press 8 and 9 on the exterior key pad) and never happens when I use the remote.

While looking at where the door lock actuator mounts and locking the doors via the interior switch and the remote, it appears the interior switch packs "more punch" on the actuator. This leads into my second problem....

The door lock actuator is held to the door via a single rivet. As the door lock actuates, it fatigues the door's metal where it attaches:



When I cycle the door locks, I can see this area flexing.

So I thought maybe my 2 problems were related. I drilled out the rivet and surrounding black "thing". I then put in a new pop rivet with some big washers to try to spread out the load.



I seem to have fixed the issue with this area flexing, but the interior switch still prevents the remote from unlocking the door.

Anyone with any ideas on the interior switch issue?

I'd just take the switch from the passenger side and put it in the driver side to see if that eliminates the problem. I can't think of what else could cause that.

By chance are the handle return springs broken (loose or floppy outside door handle)? Does the power lock actuate but seem to get stuck only part way up? If you try to use the key from the outside right afterwards does it seem like its binding or you are pushing against something?

If so, there is a cheap quick fix. The operator rod connected to the door handle has to be in the fully up position or it will block the unlock operation.

There is a thread with photos on the site showing how to use a $2 generic throttle spring to fix it very quickly. It worked for me and resolved a lot of frustration.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2570401

See page 7 of the thread, post by DSTIG1.

Awesome! I'll look into this.

Thanks!

I forgot to ask, does it work ok when you lock the car using the passenger door?

Haven't tried.

Well, the aluminum rivet I used fatigued and fell apart. Going to put in a steel rivet later this morning.

Did you try the operating rod lift? There should not be that much stress on the lock actuator.