there are 2 torx screws in the ash tray, you can also remove them with a 7mm socket I believe, otherwise, they should be t-20 or 25 maybe....
Set your parking brake.
Pull your shifter all the way down.
Pull at the edges to remove the trim. If you have an aftermarket stereo, you will have to remove that first. It is held in place by a series of clips. Once you pull it free, reach behind the upper right hand corner to unplug the 4wd switch.
Then pull the torx screws out that hold the instrument panel in.... there are 4 or 6 of them, the same size as the ones in the ash tray.
From there, you should be able to pull the instrument panel out a little bit and tilt it enough that someone with small hands can reach behind and pull out the old bulbs and put in the new ones. You need to turn the bulb base 90 degrees to pull them out.
If you still cannot reach, you need to take the 2 phillips screws out of the trim over the steering column and remove the panel underneath the column, it is held by torx screws again. Tip your tilt steering all the way down and remove the top piece of trim, then all the way up to remove the bottom.
Shift the shifter back up a little higher so you can pop out the cable that is attached to it. Unbolt the cable retainer on the top of the column. and remove the cable from the steering column.
Shift your shifter back to the all the way down position again so it stays out of the way.
Pull the two bolts out that hold the steering column up, I think they are 15mm or 13mm.
Now you should have a LOT of room to reach behind, even I can fit my big hands and arms in there at this point. BUT, if you insist on taking it out, there are two wire harnesses on the back and the speedo cable.
Wire harnesses need squeezed to remove. Speedo cable..... you grab the plastic sheath around the end, tilt it a bit and pull.
Your cluster should then come out all the way, and if you can't reach the bulbs then.... I can't help you.
If you have a manual transmission.... this process is about a bazillionty times easier, since you don't have to remove the shift indicator cable.