Transmission Line Leaking

Jyosua · 06-10-2011, 08:54 PM

The transmission line that goes into the radiator to cool it down is leaking. I took it apart and put a rubber o-ring in and that stopped the leaking for a while, but I fear the heat may be ruining that seal, and causing the leak again. Below is a picture. It's leaking right from that thread that is circled. Any advice/instruction for how to fix this? Is it possible to just replace the line? Can I repair it somehow? Thanks.

http://jyosua.superbusnet.com/TrannyLeak.jpg

mayhem1605 · 06-10-2011, 08:59 PM

I'm not sure about repairing it, someone else may know but you should be able to buy steel tubing from your local parts store and bend it up yourself

Jyosua · 06-10-2011, 09:06 PM

Is it hard to connect at the other end? I'm not even sure where it leads... Additionally, how do you go about bending the tube? Do you have to apply heat?

mayhem1605 · 06-10-2011, 09:30 PM

it leads to the passenger side of the transmission, i'm not sure how difficult it is to replace, i haven't gone down that road yet. you do not need heat to bend the line, harbor freight sells a kit that has a single flare tool and 4 benders. I'm not sure how well these work, eastwood sells a couple different tools for bending transmission, brake, and fuel lines.

Jyosua · 06-10-2011, 09:59 PM

Well thank you. I'd still like advice on repair the current line if it's possible, so I'm not going to mark this as resolved yet. I imagine I could cut the line and reflare it.

drdoom · 06-10-2011, 10:07 PM

Replacing the whole line would be a little tough, I would think. If it was me I would try to stop the leak at the fitting (again). Has your radiator been replaced recently? Reason I am asking is, is that not an adapter we see in your photo? I replaced my radiator some years back, and I seem to recall there being some adapters that came with it.

Jyosua · 06-10-2011, 10:31 PM

It might have been. I bought my truck used about 2 years ago, but I don't know the entirety of the work that went into it before my ownership.

Jyosua · 06-12-2011, 07:57 PM

I took a look at the fitting, and noticed the flared end had a flat side to it. I'm guessing that's probably the issue. I cut it off and reflared the fitting, but I had to bend the line to do it. Now I can't get it back on... Anyone know a good way to bend the line again without hurting it?

Jyosua · 06-12-2011, 08:41 PM

I figured out how to reconnect the hose, but the leak is still there. In fact, it's a little bit worse since I took out a temporary o-ring.

http://jyosua.superbusnet.com/IMG_0231.JPG

There are some cracks around the end of the part that screws in, the portion that holds the flared end to the inside of the connector, and I'm not sure if that's affecting the leak.

If anybody knows what might be causing this, advice would be greatly appreciated.

my98nnj · 06-13-2011, 10:43 AM

Put the o-ring back and call it fixed!

Jyosua · 06-13-2011, 10:47 AM

I would do that, except the o-ring was pretty chewed up because of the heat, and I don't want to ruin my transmission with o-ring particles. I'm going to buy a o-ring today, and hope that will fix it well enough.

budwich · 06-13-2011, 12:13 PM

The "basic strategy" for trans line "repair".... is cut the line, throw out the "faulty component" (ie. tube, connector or otherwise). In this case, get a replacement line with the appropriate connectors (as short as possible but irrelevant... since it is going to be cut to fit). Cut the replacement line so the you now have a new connector (and flare) and an "appropriate" length of line. Connect it to the rad. Get a short length of rubber hose with the inner diameter EQUAL to the other diameter of the line/tube. "Connect" the new line and existing old line using the rubber hose by sliding the hose over the two lines/tube. Use worm screw clamps to secure the hose around each line/tube. Done. Anyone who has tried to get a very old rad off a vehicle has done this "method" because they usually are not able to get the threaded connections off at the rad and thus they just cut the lines. Make sure you get the right size replacement tube/fitting/threadings.

Jyosua · 06-13-2011, 12:26 PM

I could do that, but that would require me to buy a line with the right fitting. At Autozone, it runs about $76 and requires special ordering... that's not something I'd like to entertain, but will if I absolutely have to.

That said, thank you for the advice if I end up having to go that route. I can easily get the threaded fittings off at the radiator, but finding replacements seems impossible...

budwich · 06-13-2011, 01:13 PM

I don't think you understand.... you don't replace the entire line or even try to buy one "like it". you buy a straight metal line that is 2 or 3 feet long.... basically $10. They are "generic". They are used for trans, gas, brake, etc. Most auto parts places have them.... and if we got them up here in "back water canada", you guys got them down there. The important thing is to get the right diameter and threaded fitting / flare.... but there are adapters (as someone noted) that you can buy that will typically adapter almost anything on the rad (rad shop or otherwise).

You basically cut a small length of this line and use it to basically replace the "bad" end.

Jyosua · 06-13-2011, 01:15 PM

Oh, I understood that much. The problem is the connectors... I can't seem to find suitable ones anywhere...

budwich · 06-13-2011, 01:31 PM

go to a rad shop...they will have either new ones or a "ton" of "recycled" adapters for any kind of fitting.

Actually back to someone elses question, I suspect you don't actually have the right fitting on the rad to begin with, hence you are battling up hill. The "receiver" is probably NOT for a flair nut connector... it is intended to have an adapter on it. Just my guess.... but I agree with the other poster's comment... something isn't right based on my experience a couple of years ago... a real bad one with tranny fluid and coolant mixing... :-(

I had to re-read what you wrote.... not sure I understand "you re-flared" the fitting... ????? or did you mean the tube/line? I don't think you can "re-flare" a fitting "successfully".... I guess you found that out... :-(

Jyosua · 06-13-2011, 02:00 PM

I'm actually considering tossing the connector that is used to connect the double flaired tube end to the radiator, in lieu of a brass adaptor to allow the use of a rubber hose. Has anyone tried using a rubber hose to connect to the radiator? Is this a good or a bad idea? I just need something to last me a few months, until I can get the money and time (and back to my house in Florida!) to fix it properly.

I'm currently in California for an internship. I actually live in Florida, so all my tools and essentially everything is back there. I'm currently working with a friend's tools, and limited time.

Also: Yes, I meant the tube, not the fitting. My bad. I don't always re-read what I write. :P

BubbaFL · 06-13-2011, 02:52 PM

I've got a similar leak from the bottom line - I tightened up the connectors; if that doesn't stop the leak I'm just going to get an aftermarket trans cooler, cut the hard lines and run rubber hoses.

The transmission will probably be happy to not have its fluid bathed in hot coolant during 100+ degree summers here.

Jyosua · 06-13-2011, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BubbaFL

I've got a similar leak from the bottom line - I tightened up the connectors; if that doesn't stop the leak I'm just going to get an aftermarket trans cooler, cut the hard lines and run rubber hoses.

The transmission will probably be happy to not have its fluid bathed in hot coolant during 100+ degree summers here.

I was thinking about doing that as well, but isn't that a harder job? Also, would doing that require me to bypass my stock cooler?

The bottom line isn't leaking, so I was wondering if a kit would provide me with everything I need to cut the top line, run rubber from it to the aftermarket cooler, and then run rubber from the aftermarket to the stock cooler.

BubbaFL · 06-13-2011, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jyosua

I was thinking about doing that as well, but isn't that a harder job? Also, would doing that require me to bypass my stock cooler?

The bottom line isn't leaking, so I was wondering if a kit would provide me with everything I need to cut the top line, run rubber from it to the aftermarket cooler, and then run rubber from the aftermarket to the stock cooler.

I don't think you could run rubber from the aftermarket cooler to the stock one.

My plan is to just cut the lines, plumb in an aftermarket cooler, and forget about the stock one.

06-10-2011, 08:54 PM	#1
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Transmission Line Leaking The transmission line that goes into the radiator to cool it down is leaking. I took it apart and put a rubber o-ring in and that stopped the leaking for a while, but I fear the heat may be ruining that seal, and causing the leak again. Below is a picture. It's leaking right from that thread that is circled. Any advice/instruction for how to fix this? Is it possible to just replace the line? Can I repair it somehow? Thanks. http://jyosua.superbusnet.com/TrannyLeak.jpg

06-13-2011, 01:13 PM	#14
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 3,246 Vehicle Specs	I don't think you understand.... you don't replace the entire line or even try to buy one "like it". you buy a straight metal line that is 2 or 3 feet long.... basically $10. They are "generic". They are used for trans, gas, brake, etc. Most auto parts places have them.... and if we got them up here in "back water canada", you guys got them down there. The important thing is to get the right diameter and threaded fitting / flare.... but there are adapters (as someone noted) that you can buy that will typically adapter almost anything on the rad (rad shop or otherwise). You basically cut a small length of this line and use it to basically replace the "bad" end. Last edited by budwich; 06-13-2011 at 01:24 PM.

06-13-2011, 01:31 PM	#16
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 3,246 Vehicle Specs	go to a rad shop...they will have either new ones or a "ton" of "recycled" adapters for any kind of fitting. Actually back to someone elses question, I suspect you don't actually have the right fitting on the rad to begin with, hence you are battling up hill. The "receiver" is probably NOT for a flair nut connector... it is intended to have an adapter on it. Just my guess.... but I agree with the other poster's comment... something isn't right based on my experience a couple of years ago... a real bad one with tranny fluid and coolant mixing... :-( I had to re-read what you wrote.... not sure I understand "you re-flared" the fitting... ????? or did you mean the tube/line? I don't think you can "re-flare" a fitting "successfully".... I guess you found that out... :-( Last edited by budwich; 06-13-2011 at 01:53 PM.

06-13-2011, 02:00 PM	#17
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I'm actually considering tossing the connector that is used to connect the double flaired tube end to the radiator, in lieu of a brass adaptor to allow the use of a rubber hose. Has anyone tried using a rubber hose to connect to the radiator? Is this a good or a bad idea? I just need something to last me a few months, until I can get the money and time (and back to my house in Florida!) to fix it properly. I'm currently in California for an internship. I actually live in Florida, so all my tools and essentially everything is back there. I'm currently working with a friend's tools, and limited time. Also: Yes, I meant the tube, not the fitting. My bad. I don't always re-read what I write. :P Last edited by Jyosua; 06-13-2011 at 02:10 PM.

06-10-2011, 08:59 PM	#2
mayhem1605 Wannabe Elite Explorer erie,pa '96 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 71 Vehicle Specs	I'm not sure about repairing it, someone else may know but you should be able to buy steel tubing from your local parts store and bend it up yourself

06-10-2011, 09:06 PM	#3
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Is it hard to connect at the other end? I'm not even sure where it leads... Additionally, how do you go about bending the tube? Do you have to apply heat?

06-10-2011, 09:30 PM	#4
mayhem1605 Wannabe Elite Explorer erie,pa '96 XLT Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 71 Vehicle Specs	it leads to the passenger side of the transmission, i'm not sure how difficult it is to replace, i haven't gone down that road yet. you do not need heat to bend the line, harbor freight sells a kit that has a single flare tool and 4 benders. I'm not sure how well these work, eastwood sells a couple different tools for bending transmission, brake, and fuel lines.

06-10-2011, 09:59 PM	#5
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Well thank you. I'd still like advice on repair the current line if it's possible, so I'm not going to mark this as resolved yet. I imagine I could cut the line and reflare it.

06-10-2011, 10:07 PM	#6
drdoom Wannabe Elite Explorer VA 1997 XLT 4.0 SOHC 4WD Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,518 Vehicle Specs	Replacing the whole line would be a little tough, I would think. If it was me I would try to stop the leak at the fitting (again). Has your radiator been replaced recently? Reason I am asking is, is that not an adapter we see in your photo? I replaced my radiator some years back, and I seem to recall there being some adapters that came with it.

06-10-2011, 10:31 PM	#7
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	It might have been. I bought my truck used about 2 years ago, but I don't know the entirety of the work that went into it before my ownership.

06-12-2011, 07:57 PM	#8
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I took a look at the fitting, and noticed the flared end had a flat side to it. I'm guessing that's probably the issue. I cut it off and reflared the fitting, but I had to bend the line to do it. Now I can't get it back on... Anyone know a good way to bend the line again without hurting it?

06-12-2011, 08:41 PM	#9
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I figured out how to reconnect the hose, but the leak is still there. In fact, it's a little bit worse since I took out a temporary o-ring. http://jyosua.superbusnet.com/IMG_0231.JPG There are some cracks around the end of the part that screws in, the portion that holds the flared end to the inside of the connector, and I'm not sure if that's affecting the leak. If anybody knows what might be causing this, advice would be greatly appreciated.

06-13-2011, 10:43 AM	#10
my98nnj Wannabe Elite Explorer Boonton, New Jersey 1998 XLT Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 1,299 Vehicle Specs	Put the o-ring back and call it fixed!

06-13-2011, 10:47 AM	#11
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I would do that, except the o-ring was pretty chewed up because of the heat, and I don't want to ruin my transmission with o-ring particles. I'm going to buy a o-ring today, and hope that will fix it well enough.

06-13-2011, 12:13 PM	#12
budwich Wannabe Elite Explorer Ottawa, Ont 96 XL Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 3,246 Vehicle Specs	The "basic strategy" for trans line "repair".... is cut the line, throw out the "faulty component" (ie. tube, connector or otherwise). In this case, get a replacement line with the appropriate connectors (as short as possible but irrelevant... since it is going to be cut to fit). Cut the replacement line so the you now have a new connector (and flare) and an "appropriate" length of line. Connect it to the rad. Get a short length of rubber hose with the inner diameter EQUAL to the other diameter of the line/tube. "Connect" the new line and existing old line using the rubber hose by sliding the hose over the two lines/tube. Use worm screw clamps to secure the hose around each line/tube. Done. Anyone who has tried to get a very old rad off a vehicle has done this "method" because they usually are not able to get the threaded connections off at the rad and thus they just cut the lines. Make sure you get the right size replacement tube/fitting/threadings.

06-13-2011, 12:26 PM	#13
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	I could do that, but that would require me to buy a line with the right fitting. At Autozone, it runs about $76 and requires special ordering... that's not something I'd like to entertain, but will if I absolutely have to. That said, thank you for the advice if I end up having to go that route. I can easily get the threaded fittings off at the radiator, but finding replacements seems impossible...

06-13-2011, 01:15 PM	#15
Jyosua Wannabe Elite Explorer New Port Richey, FL 97' Mountaineer Join Date: Nov 2010 Posts: 58 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Oh, I understood that much. The problem is the connectors... I can't seem to find suitable ones anywhere...

06-13-2011, 02:52 PM	#18
BubbaFL Wannabe Elite Explorer Central Florida 1997 XLT Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 256 Vehicle Specs	I've got a similar leak from the bottom line - I tightened up the connectors; if that doesn't stop the leak I'm just going to get an aftermarket trans cooler, cut the hard lines and run rubber hoses. The transmission will probably be happy to not have its fluid bathed in hot coolant during 100+ degree summers here.