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Towing Modified Explorers

Recently on a trip to Big Bear, I was towing my Explorer behind my Silverado with a tow bar. I had to brake moderatly hard, and this happened;
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I have been towing that Explorer with that tow bar behind vehicles for years with no problems. I already got the Silverado fixed, and my insurance is eating the entire bill, so its not as bad as it looks (damage was over $3,000). I got a brand new tow bar out of the deal! The Explorer came out of it completely unharmed, so the wheelin' weekend was still a blast.

As best as I can figure, when I braked the front suspension on the Explorer unloaded, which caused the tow bar to break off at the mounting tabs when it reached its upward limit of travel. The Explorer pivoted on the bent tow bar arms and ran right into the back of the Silverado. The front wheels of the Explorer were still on the pavement, but if you line up the damage with the "D" ring mounts on the front bumper of the Explorer, you can see how high up it rode (just under the black plastic gate cover).

Now, I don't really want to repeat this adventure, especially since my insurance will most likely not eat this again. I figured out a way to limit the up travel of the tow bar, but it will put pressure on the mounts in a way they were not intended by the tow bar maker. It should hold as the suspension will soften the blow, but am still uncomfortable. On a normal towed vehicle, this type of collision would not be possible, because the suspension only moves a few inches up or down. Not the case with a suspension modified for off-road. I can only imagine what could happen with a coilover'd SAS, after looking at what my TTB did.
I want to come up with some type of front suspension limiting option that is easily removed/installed. I put the sway bar back on with the quick disconnects, but am not sure this will keep the Explorer out of the back of the towed vehicle.

ANY IDEAS??

Please don't tell me to take the tow bar back and get a trailer, because I already thought of that. They cost about the same, but I really don't have the space for a car hauler.
 



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Step 1. Trade Chevy for Ford.
Step 2. Lift Ford to match Explorer's height.

:salute: :D
 






As best as I can figure, when I braked the front suspension on the Explorer unloaded, which caused the tow bar to break off at the mounting tabs when it reached its upward limit of travel. The Explorer pivoted on the bent tow bar arms and ran right into the back of the Silverado. The front wheels of the Explorer were still on the pavement, but if you line up the damage with the "D" ring mounts on the front bumper of the Explorer, you can see how high up it rode (just under the black plastic gate cover).
so basically it was poll vaulted upwards by the tow bars.

To fix this problem, some options:
1) put on some limit straps on the front suspension so as to keep it on the ground (as you suggested)
2) Get a ball mount that's taller so that the tow bar is more horizontal. This will ultimately put more torque on the ball mount (larger moment arm) during braking so this ball mount must be beefy and fabricated properly for the increase torque/load.

Also, I know you said you dont have room for a car trailer but what about a dolly? They arent as big and can be folded or stowed away vertically. The only issue I see here is that most tow dollies are a bit narrow. You can probably store the dolly under the Explorer when not in use since the two practically go together.

BTW, what did CHP have to say about this? Boy, I'm sure they had a field day when they saw the accident.. I mean only an idio.. oh, wait........... :p:
 












so basically it was poll vaulted upwards by the tow bars.
Yes that is correct.
There is a mount adapter already on it that puts the towed vehicle height within three inches of the towing vehicle mount. I already did that.:D
The tow bars (destroyed and new) are the RV type that plug directly into the receiver hitch. The new tow bar has offset arms which will raise the height another 2 inches, so it should be nearly level.

BTW, what did CHP have to say about this? Boy, I'm sure they had a field day when they saw the accident.. I mean only an idio.. oh, wait........... :p:
There was no report taken, I am not a complete idiot. If I had needed a report, I would have had the CHP Sergeant I was wheelin' with take one. If I could have gotten him to stop laughing, that is.

Step 1. Trade Chevy for Ford.
Step 2. Lift Ford to match Explorer's height.

:salute: :D

I get three replies, and only one is constructive. You guys are great! I really like that Chevy truck, it get great milage for a 5.3, and pulls great. Lifting it would kill the gas milage, and it would be a little difficult to lift my regular tow vehicle, since its a 31 foot RV.
 






You can actually see the mount riser in the picture. Its over eight inches of rise. Its the black part.:p:
 






This might be over-complicating it but what about putting an electric-over-hydraulic actuator in the Explorer -- basically making it a trailer and preventing the Explorer from pushing on the tow vehicle. The units are very expensive though but basically, you plumb it into your existing [rear?] brake lines and the actuator receives signals from your tow vehicle's brake controller - which, again, pretty much makes the Explorer a trailer. You would just put a switch before the actuator to ensure that the system is never ON when the Explorer is on its own (not being towed) - which I guess wouldnt be a problem if the unit always gets its electrical power from the towing vehicle's brake controller - just like a regular trailer. Example of a unit: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4822500.html. I of course have never dealt with such an actuator (and maybe someone on the forum has) so you'd need to do a bit of digging to make sure the system works.
 






I get three replies, and only one is constructive. You guys are great!
I'll apologize for Izwack, for his apparently non-helpful reply. Hey, he tried!
My idea, however, WOULD work, you can't deny that. :D
 












This might be over-complicating it but what about putting an electric-over-hydraulic actuator in the Explorer -- basically making it a trailer and preventing the Explorer from pushing on the tow vehicle. The units are very expensive though but basically, you plumb it into your existing [rear?] brake lines and the actuator receives signals from your tow vehicle's brake controller - which, again, pretty much makes the Explorer a trailer. You would just put a switch before the actuator to ensure that the system is never ON when the Explorer is on its own (not being towed) - which I guess wouldnt be a problem if the unit always gets its electrical power from the towing vehicle's brake controller - just like a regular trailer. Example of a unit: http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4822500.html. I of course have never dealt with such an actuator (and maybe someone on the forum has) so you'd need to do a bit of digging to make sure the system works.
I have a Roadmaster brake assist dealio that goes on the floor and actually pushes the brake pedal or the towed when it senses centrifugal force. It also has a remote so I can monitor it from inside the towing vehicle. Its another California law that any towed vehicle over 1500 pounds have its own braking system. I heard the Explorer tires chirp right before it took out my tailgate, so it was working.
This model here
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/even_brake.html
Had I known there was something that uses the towed vehicles brakes and is hard wired, I would have got that. Its about half the price of the Roadmaster system.
 






I'll apologize for Izwack, for his apparently non-helpful reply. Hey, he tried!
My idea, however, WOULD work, you can't deny that. :D
You guys crack me up. I think I'm going to trade the Explorer for a horse and ride off into the sunset.

I was thinking about trading in that Silverado. Its a friggin black cloud. So far, it has cost insurance companies almost half the original purchase price in repairs, in less than six months. Been in two collisions, the first of which did $9600 in damage, now this.
 






The new tow bar is a Demco and is rated at 10,500 pounds. That is the highest rated commercial tow bar. Its made out of STEEL, not aluminum like the other. Frigin thing weighs 46 pounds versus the 25 pound aluminum tow bar. I think the stops on it will be much sturdier and not fail, but, well, this whole thing sucked.
http://www.towdemco.com/victoryseriestowbars/towbars/excalibarII.html
 






I think I got it fixed. I welded stops to the adapters for the tow bar that will limit its upward movement. The suspension should soften any blow to the mounts. That and hooking up the sway bars should keep me from having a repeat.
I was also thinking of using short limit straps with quick disconnect pins behind the front shocks. It would only take a minute to disconnect/connect and would keep me from worrying about it.
 






2 months later and I've finally found this thread.

Glad you figured out half your problem Brian. To fix the other half you need a Dodge truck Just being helpful ;)
 






I showed my handiwork to a friend who knows about this stuff. He was concerned about the
"stops" putting too much pressure in the wrong direction (horizontal instead of vertical) upon the tow bar mounts. So, I am going to cut them off and just go with the quick release limit straps. Like it is always said; Sometimes the simple solution is the right solution.
 






I agree with rick. Get a DODGE to tow with. :D It has nothing to do with the dodge, it has to do with the Cummins engine. Oh and a trailer is nice too when you have a broken axle.

I tow with a 06 Dodge 3500 and a 10k flatbed trailer, the only way to go. Last weekend the Ex broke the axle tube in half, right off the trail. That means the entire weigh of the Ex was on the axle shaft. Would have be interesting with a tow-bar.

I like that front bumper on your Explorer by the way.
 






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