IAC Problem: How many RPM's does your vehicle IDLE at? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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IAC Problem: How many RPM's does your vehicle IDLE at?

SyberTiger

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
767
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City, State
Orlando
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 Limited 4x4 4.6L
I replaced my IAC on my 2002 Explorer this past June. The IAC had failed and the RPM's had shot up to 2500 when idle. I installed a BWD (part #31077) that I bought from Advanced Auto for $62. The new IAC seemed to fix my problem and my idle returned to about 750 RPM which sounded about right.

Recently, my replacement IAC started to act weird. Sometimes the idle would go up to 1200-1500 RPM. Othertimes it would hover around 800-900 RPM. As other folks had indicated that they didn't have much luck with the BWD made IAC I decided that probably the IAC was going bad again. Since I was only 6 months into a 1 year warranty part I put in a replacement BWD IAC from Advanced Auto.

The IAC has seemed to fix the erratic idle problem of recent but now my idle is around 500 RPM. That seems just way too low. So I thought I would ask y'all what is your idle RPM and what does the specs say? I'm wondering if I'm experiencing some other problem in addition to a crappy made IAC. Before I order a Motocraft IAC I want to bounce this off of y'all to see what your experience is.
 



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I'd suggest 2 additional things:

1.) Clean your air sensor on the intake
2.) Disconnect and reconnect the battery. Let the computer relearn the idle with the clean IAC and sensor.

Good luck and let me know! Won't hurt to do.
 






I'd suggest 2 additional things:

1.) Clean your air sensor on the intake
2.) Disconnect and reconnect the battery. Let the computer relearn the idle with the clean IAC and sensor.

Good luck and let me know! Won't hurt to do.

The "air sensor" you mention is the MAF sensor correct? BTW, what is your idle RPMs?

Thanks.
 






Mine idles at about 700-750 rpm when fully warmed up. Original IAC with <55k miles (not daily driver). 4.6 L, bought new in 2002.
 






Mine idles at about 700-750 rpm when fully warmed up. Original IAC with <55k miles (not daily driver). 4.6 L, bought new in 2002.

Thanks rrgone. I had about 120K miles on my 2002 when the IAC went out 6 months ago. Over the years I've cleaned the MAF sensor and the IAC usually once every year or two. Your 750 RPM sounds exactly like what I thought it should be. I wonder what everyone else is seeing for their idle RPM.
 






My '02 has over 200,000 on it and it idles at 750 RPM when warmed up.
 






Yes - MAF sensor. I dont know if cars w/o electronic throttle body if it helps as much (vs electronic) to clean them out for smoother idling. I can imagine it might......
I'd say 750 rpms. Our 05 Mustang idles very high but I think that is from a possible dirty throttle body (like 1500 rpms when it starts up and it does go down, although slowly).

Have 133k on mine and it idles fine.
 






on a chilly morning, 1k at tops
after nice and toasty 800?
 






I unhooked the battery overnight so that the computer could recalibrate. I can't really say that it made a difference. Idle RPM seems to be 500 - 600 RPM. I think I'm going to order a Motocraft IAC and return the BWD crap back to Advanced Auto.
 






Good luck to you Sir. :salute:
 






I noticed that my 500 - 600 RPM became 400 RPM yesterday. In fact it got to the point where the vehicle would just stall when coming to a full stop. I found myself having to use the left foot on the brake and the right foot on the gas to keep it from stalling sometime when sitting a a stop light.

For grins, I thought perhaps I got yet another bad IAC. So, since it doesn't cost anything, I picked up another BWD made IAC at Advanced Auto and installed it this morning. Damn, if the problem isn't worse now. Now the problem is that I have erratic idle when the vehicle warms up. That is, the idle is oscillating back and forth between 750 - 1000 RPM every second. Then eventually, it starts to oscillate downward to the point the engine stalls. I'm wondering if there is some other component causing this issue. It does this erratic idling in Park, Neutral, and Drive.

What is really odd about all this is that everytime I change the IAC I get different results but still have idle problems...just different looks to the idle problem. Any ideas?

Oddly enough my current problem, in many ways, sounds like THIS THREAD. I wrote the solution in that thread....LOL! However, the difference here is there are no codes being logged into the computer. And, I did check the rubber elbow...
 






Ger Motorcraft IAC. Too many issues with the aftermarkets. Yes, Motorcraft is more money but it saves you headaches.
 






Ger Motorcraft IAC. Too many issues with the aftermarkets. Yes, Motorcraft is more money but it saves you headaches.

I think the Motocraft IAC is the right component to go with too. However, I'm just trying to wrap my mind around the possibility that I'm having such bad luck with two brand new BWD IACs right out of the box. What are the odds that my first BWD IAC was good for 6 months, then the second BWD part was bad right out of the box, then the third BWD part was also bad right out of the box. From a logical viewpoint you would think that the symptoms are telling me that the problem is elsewhere.

Just for grins, on this third BWD part that is exhibiting the back-n-forth oscillation of the idle I unplugged the IAC connector. The idle seems to sit at a constant 1500 RPM with the IAC unplugged. The offending oscillation is gone. Could this be telling me that the IAC truly is bad out of the box?
 






I found the solution to the problem.

I tried three brand new IACs made by BWD that came from Advanced Auto. I did this because it didn't cost a thing as the first BWD made IAC was installed 6 months ago and came with a one year replacement warranty. I did not have immediate access to a Motocraft part which is why I tried all the BWD parts. What was really crazy was that everytime I tried a new IAC I got different results but the idle RPM was still bad. With one the RPM would oscillate back-n-forth 750-1000 RPM every second. On another the RPM would drop down to 400 RPM then sometimes stall when coming to a stop. Yet another, the RPM would shoot up to 1500+ then drop down to 500 RPM. It just seemed crazy that three new IACs gave different results.

I decided it was time to clean the throttle body (TB). When you take the air intake hose off of the TB there really isn't much to clean. You can clean the opening (left side of pic) to the TB. You can clean the butterfly plate. You can stick your fingers past the butterfly as far as you can and try to clean but really that isn't much of a cleaning. After all, you've barely cleaned into the TB opening at this point. I knew that this little amount of cleaning barely added up to much of anything. In the following picture you see a blue box. The blue box is only there because I was asking what is under the black plate. This is no way is an indication that you need to remove the black plate. I did not remove the black plate and actually do not know what is under the black plate. If someone knows what is under the plate and if removing it can help with cleaning the TB then please chime in.

ThrottleBody_zps2b807e66.png


In the picture you can see the air intake port on the left. Remove the hose clamp and slide the hose off to access the air intake port to clean the inside of it and the butterfly plate. You can see the EGR valve on the right side of the TB.

Before I just buttoned it all back up I took a flashlight and tried my best to look inside of the TB to see if there was anything significant. To my surprise about on the opposite side of the TB air intake opening I saw what looked like a hole had been burned through the aluminum body. It looked like a jagged hole almost like someone took a welding rod and cut into the housing except it looked charred black-brown. After I came to my senses I realized that was a port for the EGR valve (right side of pic) and it was severely clogged (40 - 50%). It was like an ear canal that was closing up due to excessive ear wax.

I took a 7/16" wood dowel and poked the charred area. Sure enough there was a round hole behind that jagged mess. Twisting the 7/16" wood dowel I could barely work it into the hole.

TBCleaning_zps74e5d939.png


Next, I made a giant Q-tip using a 3/8" wood dowel and part of an old t-shirt I taped the cloth to the wood dowel using electrical tape. I soaked my giant Q-tip with TB cleaner and proceeded to clean out that EGR port hole. Next, I vacuumed out the crumbs. I taped a plastic hose to the end of my vacuum cleaner with electrical tape and sucked all that gunk out. When the cleaning was complete I noted that the 7/16" wood dowel easily moved in and out the hole. This told me that that EGR port is probably 1/2" in diameter. As a reference, the EGR port is about 9" on the opposite side of the air intake port. This is why I needed those long wood dowels to reach it. I don't know if you can take off the EGR valve and clean it from that side. It didn't look like it.

Even though this fixed my problem I am still going to install a Motocraft made IAC valve.

Anyhow, there was my solution. Sure enough the vehicle now correctly idles at 750 RPM. I have read a number of these "rough", "erratic", "high" idle threads. Usually the solution is a new IAC. However, I noted there were numerous folks who continued to have this problem after changing or cleaning their IAC as well as changing out other components. Some even "cleaned" their TB but I really don't think they ever noticed the problem I saw. What was frustrating was that most of these folks never came back with the solution to their problem.
 






I found the solution to the problem.

.

Good job on being determined to find the source of your idle problem and your ingenuity on using a wood dowel as a cleaning tool for the clogged inner TB, EGR valve port. Good fix! :thumbsup:
 






Fixed

SyberTiger's solution was a fix for me. Thanks again!
 






SyberTiger's solution was a fix for me. Thanks again!

Yeah, I have a feeling that many of the folks who changed out their IAC and still had a problem (and never came back to tell us the solution) had a clogged EGR port hole like you and I. If/when you have future idle problems don't forget to look into a new IAC and a new rubber elbow.

Thanks for coming back and letting us know how you got it fixed! :salute:
 






Solves other issues too

I found the solution to the problem.

I decided it was time to clean the throttle body (TB).

FYI - I had my throttle body cleaned a few months ago. It solved the delayed throttle response issue as well as some low-voltage electrical issues. I went through a few alternators trying to figure out why my lights were dimming and my a/c blower motor was slowing down when I was idling. It turns out that the electrical issue was more related to a low RPM issue and cleaning the throttle body solved it. The throttle response when accelerating from stop improved drastically too.
 






I'd still like to know what's under that black plate. Maybe that's where you bolt on the supercharger?:D:D
 



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I'd still like to know what's under that black plate. Maybe that's where you bolt on the supercharger?:D:D

Ya know, I started to grab a wrench to take it off but then I remembered that curiousity killed the cat so I backed away from the wrench. I really hate it when you take some bolts off and parts go "sprong" in different directions.

These engine where used in the Mustang back in 2002 so perhaps there was a performance part that strapped on top.
 






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