4.0L SOHC Valve Cover Gasket Job - Some Notes

I've only done half of the job, but I started with the passenger side valve cover. I wanted to mention just a few things to help people out.

Buy the Felpro VS 50529 R part, not VS 50491 R.

First of all, I drained a little bit of my radiator to try and flush the upper hose. You just open the valve at the bottom right of the radiator (or bottom left if you are looking head-on).

I decided to not take the spark plug wires off the spark plugs. Instead, I disconnected them from firing box/msd and stuffed the wires underneath the valve cover on the side.

This job is actually quite easy: just unplug a bunch of coolant hoses and you are 70% done. You'll need a deep socket for the valve cover...I think 10mm or 7/16. It'll also be helpful to have a mini 1/4" or 3/8" swivel.

Also, it helps to have a tool with a small hook on it, like a dental pick. When you take the injector connectors off, they have two plastic tabs on each side, and I had to pull up on one side with the pick, and then pull gently with a little pressure to keep it from sliding back down. Then I used the pick on the other side and hooked it and pulled it off. I don't know how I would have done it otherwise, and you DO NOT want to break the injector connector.

The passenger side took me about 2.5 hrs to remove and replace.


I need to tackle the driver side which looks to be a bigger PITA with the EGR pipe and the fuel line. Though, I've read you can just disconnect the EGR from the valve and push it to the side a little.

I finished the driver side. I dont think it took more than 90 minutes. Seriously, I found the driver side to be way easier than the passenger.

As with my previous comments, you need that little metal hook tool to easily get the fuel injector connectors undone. I just unscrewed the EGR pipe from the EGR valve and gave it a slight nudge away from the valve cover. Rather than mess around with the fuel line where the FSM says, just disconnect it from the fuel rail. It is flexible to the point where you can also move that out of the way fairly easily.

It looks ominous with all the crap sitting on the valve cover. Just start unplugging every clip you see. Label the spark plug cables and move them completely out of the way. Rotate the PCV valve and unplug it from the valve cover. You'll need to remove 2 bolts at the top holding your firing-box or whatever it is called and two on the block at the bottom.

Anyway...I was surprised how quickly I knocked out the driver side. No more leaks!

Great info!I'm sure this will come in handy for folks/me in the future. I'm suspecting a possible oil drip(a drop a week). Could be from the back of the valve cover(s). But, I cant see down in-between the firewall and engine. Still tracing it down. (could be rear main seal)Anyway, nice to know someone in my area to contact if I run into questions when/if I need to tackle this. I'm in Lago Vista. Just north of Austin. We need a ST meet in the Austin area. They're everywhere around here. Just wanted to say thanks ahead of time. Posts with tips are the best

Markaprice73 said:

Great info!I'm sure this will come in handy for folks/me in the future. I'm suspecting a possible oil drip(a drop a week). Could be from the back of the valve cover(s). But, I cant see down in-between the firewall and engine. Still tracing it down. (could be rear main seal)Anyway, nice to know someone in my area to contact if I run into questions when/if I need to tackle this. I'm in Lago Vista. Just north of Austin. We need a ST meet in the Austin area. They're everywhere around here. Just wanted to say thanks ahead of time. Posts with tips are the best

Click to expand...

FYI: I bought some dye from Amazon and put it in my oil. It helped a little. I already had a suspicion it was at the back of the valve covers and that just helped confirm it. The motor sits at an angle, so the back outward corner is the most susceptible and it is right over the exhaust manifold. You should be able to smell burning oil. I think that the gasket bakes more and becomes brittle near the back due to the more extreme heat between the FW and the lack of airflow back there.

For both old gaskets, the front part was rubbery, and the back portion became brittle and cracked while removing.

2001 ST. 213,090 miles and counting.

Yep. I added the dye a few weeks back. But, I probably should have diluted it before adding. nothing was "glowing". Not even on the dipstick. I think it may be stuck in the oil fill neck or not working so great with Mobil1? (have the uv light and glasses too) Anyway, My very slow leak collects at the bottom of the "ladder"? gasket. In between the bell housing and before the oil pan. I finally saw a drop. Up past the oil filter at the corner of the block.(where you have stated) Pretty sure its the valve gaskets now as there is alot of black oil build up near all the injectors and random oil stains here and there on the covers themselves. Like it soaked up the sides from the gasket? I'll keep an eye on it for a bit. But, I didnt see a "trail" leading to that drip on the corner of the block though. I stuck my hand behind the left cover as far down as I could. Hand came back black but no "fresh oil". Frustrating. I suppose at 150K it's probably time. I going to try dyno oil next change until I can get to the gaskets this summer. Not losing very much at this point. Anywho, Thanks man. I think the oil is dipping straight down the metal bell housing gasket to collect under it. But, nothing on the sides of bell housing. Where did yours collect?

Sorry, just send me a PM. I didn't mean to not reply. There was hard build-up on top of my oil filter tree, but mostly was dripping onto the exhaust manifold and burning off. You could smell it whenever I would come to a stop. There may be some at the back between the engine and the bell housing since the oil drips at the back and some of it may run at an angle.

Evan6ardner said:

I've only done half of the job, but I started with the passenger side valve cover. I wanted to mention just a few things to help people out.

Buy the Felpro VS 50529 R part, not VS 50491 R.

First of all, I drained a little bit of my radiator to try and flush the upper hose. You just open the valve at the bottom right of the radiator (or bottom left if you are looking head-on).

I decided to not take the spark plug wires off the spark plugs. Instead, I disconnected them from firing box/msd and stuffed the wires underneath the valve cover on the side.

This job is actually quite easy: just unplug a bunch of coolant hoses and you are 70% done. You'll need a deep socket for the valve cover...I think 10mm or 7/16. It'll also be helpful to have a mini 1/4" or 3/8" swivel.

Also, it helps to have a tool with a small hook on it, like a dental pick. When you take the injector connectors off, they have two plastic tabs on each side, and I had to pull up on one side with the pick, and then pull gently with a little pressure to keep it from sliding back down. Then I used the pick on the other side and hooked it and pulled it off. I don't know how I would have done it otherwise, and you DO NOT want to break the injector connector.

The passenger side took me about 2.5 hrs to remove and replace.


I need to tackle the driver side which looks to be a bigger PITA with the EGR pipe and the fuel line. Though, I've read you can just disconnect the EGR from the valve and push it to the side a little.

Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to post this. I assume you had a Job 2 01' sport trac that you did the work on.

I will be tackling this later this week and I am glad to find this information.

Evan6ardner said:

Buy the Felpro VS 50529 R part, not VS 50491 R.

Click to expand...

I realize this is in the wrong forum for me, but I have a 1998 Explorer Eddie Bauer. Rock Auto points me to the VS50491R part which look more like the traditional, "thicker" gaskets:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=446823&cc=1304413

The VS50529 gaskets look thinner:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=447170

Are the VS50529s for later-model 4.0 SOHC only? I want to make sure I buy the right parts! Thanks!

The pic on rockauto for the Felpro VS 50529 R is incorrect. They are thick and blue. I know this because they are sitting in my garage for months now. Maybe finally going to get around to it this weekend.
I would order the VS50491R that is listed for your vehicle on rockauto.
Plus, they definitely look different.

Thanks Markaprice!

I just finished the driver's side valve cover gasket. I followed the Ford Service Manual. A few notes to add.

1) As Evan stated, there are 2 lower bracket bolts holding the ignition coil on. Ford service manual just lists one. It it a 15mm. A gearwrench helps.
2) I did not need to remove the fuel injectors on drivers side. FSM doesn't stat this. But, I can see how access would be better if you did.
3) I didn't disconnect the fuel line as FSM stats. There is a bracket just above the disconnect. (next to #4 (front)spark plug boot) Bent the tab back to disconnect. This gives the fuel line the needed wiggle room(pull the line up). It's a pain to get the tab back connected. But doable.
4) There are 6 total bolts that hold down the valve cover (FSM shows 4) (this is obvious, just wanted to mention it) The Felpro gasket kit comes with new silicone grommets for these bolts to replace the old ones.
5) I removed the brake booster vacuum hose and tucked it under the wiper for more access.
6) Flip the entire ignition coil/bracket over and set it over where the snow shield(plastic SOHC 4.0 cover) would normally sit.
7) Flip the speedometer/cruise control cables over and tuck them up on top of the wiper cowl.
8) Lots of wiggling to remove valve cover. Don't force it. It just has to slip out just right.
9) Be careful not to let old dirt and junk fall into the engine while wiping down the surface area of the block. Just inspect it really well and remove any bits that may have fell in.

Anyway, took me over 3 hours. Took my time. The gasket was super hardened/brittle. It broke in 10+ pieces removing. I can see why just trying to tighten down the bolts a little did not stop the leaking. The gasket will not compress once it gets this hardened. The grommets on the bolts were still a little pliable. But, anything past 8 #'s feet. The bolts probably will break. I also cleaned up the valve cover real good. Inside and out.
That's all got at the moment. Onto the passenger side.

Oh, I'm doing this on the 2002 Sport. Same engine as the ST. The ST will be next. The 02 is leaking worse.

Passenger side complete.
Same as Evan, I just unplugged the spark plug wire at the coil and swung them over to the passenger side and tucked them by the blower motor.
Also, BRILLIANT idea for the pick tool to disconnect the injectors. (I broke one side of one clip though. It still works thankfully.
*All valve cover bolts are 8mm (deep well socket) 1/4 inch drive ratchet for 90%+ of job.
All back VC bolts are difficult. I used a milk crate to stand on. Not easy
Be sure to bleed the cooling system when finished.

No oil more oil drips and smoking after test drive. Still, I will be checking over the next few days.

If anyone has any questions. I will do my best to help. Well, I guess it's my ST's turn next. Maybe in a few months. My hands and back are killing me.

I am about to do this job soon in the coming week or so, curious how did you get to that very back bottom bolt on the passenger side valve cover? I am thinking a 1/4" swivel is the only way, there is so little room in there.

Yep. 1/4" swivel on a 6" extension and a 8mm deep well socket. (I may have added a 3" extension in addition to the 6". I can't remember exactly) ...I have yet to do this on my 03 ST Fail. Good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks, I do have 1 other question, do you have to disconnect the fuel injectors on the passenger side to get the valve cover off, or is there enough wiggle room to remove it? I know the driver's side you don't have to.

Not sure. It looks possible. I just did what the Ford manual and Haynes manual steps stated.

Quick question. Gonna finish both sides.tomorrow but the passenger side back left valve cover bolt wont come out, it loosens up and comes up then just starts spinning. It'll tighten up So I know its not stripped. Does it have to come all the way out

Just finished mine on my 03 ST last weekend...They all loosen up and just start spinning. It's loose. The rubber grommet on the bolt is just holding the bolt in there. You can either wiggle it and pull it/pop it straight out or leave it in while removing the valve cover. I guess sometimes the bolt just comes out and leaves the grommet in place. Is that what happened with your others? All my grommets came out with the bolt...that particular bolt is a pain aint it?!

All came out but that one, oh God don't meantion that bolt lol. 6" extension and 1/4" swivvel anstill was a pain! Gonna do both sides tomorrow I hope, the drive,r side sounds horrible with the egr and fuel etc.