Any Window Relay's 96 Explorer 5.0v8

I would like to ask before I remove switches, door panels, and window motors. Are there window relays for each individual window or the whole system?

Issue:
=Front passenger window does not go down.
=Using master switch (drivers door) the front passenger window doesnt even engage.
=Using front passenger window switch, the window motor engages but barely moves. Its like it frozen during dead of winter.

I hope someone can help before I make more work than needed.

I am going to tie the window, instrument cluster and battery issue in together. I dug around on here and found a panel of relays.

Here are pics of the Relays under the dash, to the right (inner of truck towards radio) of the steering wheel, and under a plastic cover that has one clip to pull back. Below:


Accessory Delay Relay? Below: It looks good. What does it usually do?


Mind you, my truck hasnt been turned in over 20 hrs. The next two relays were hot, one was very very hot (battery saver) and the other (dimmer) was almost tack welded in.

Dimmer relay looks welded and hot. Below:


Battery Saver Relay looks the same but was really really hot. Below:


What this says to me is that these circuits were open and closing but sticking or internally welding open or shut. Dimmer switch is most likely shut. Battery Saver is most likely fluctuating open and shut but today was open.

I will be carousing the junk yard to replace parts with as I am broke as no funny joke would have you. Feel free to have some input as I might be missing something. Next step after replacing with no result would be switches. After that I must have a grounding issue.

Inside of the 2 relays. Is this normal position or not? I guess I will find out. For those who havent seen the inside of a relay here you go!

Stamped 6107 C1... F57B-14B192-AA on both. Below:


There are two points that move. The one little round one inside and the pinkish larger round one. Both relays look identical. Either both are bad or both are good

This article (from easyautodiagnostics.com) will help you to bench test the Ford 20 amp multi-purpose Relay in a step by step fashion.



For your cross reference information:

Ford part #:
F57B-14B192-AA
AutoZone part #:
Duralast 19283
Duralast 20749
O'reilly part #:
IDI 25-0136
Other part #:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS RY612

What Tools do I Need to Test the Relay?

You'll need two very important things to bench test the Relay and they are:

Multimeter
The Multimeter can be Digital or Analog Multimeter.

Jumper Wires
You'll need two of them with alligator clips on both ends (you can make these yourself).

Relay Basics

The core purpose of a Relay is to control a high amount of current with a smaller (lower) current. And it does this by having one circuit mechanically open or close another circuit.

These two circuits can be classified as:

A high current circuit.
This is the circuit that is opened and closed.
This is the circuit that delivers the current to the component that needs it.
A low current circuit.
This the circuit that activates or deactivates the relay by 'opening' or 'closing' the high current circuit.



The relay that this article will help you test is a non solid-state type, which means that it activates with mechanical components.

Brief relay theory

Inside the Relay's plastic cover, you'll find these core components:
An Electromagnet
This is a coil of wire wrapped around a soft iron core
When voltage flows thru it, it becomes a magnet.
A movable Armature.
This is the component that is moved from one contact to another, by the Electromagnet's magnetic field, to complete the circuit (for the high current to pass thru').
A Spring.
After the Relay is deactivated, the Electromagnet's magnetic field collapses and the spring ensures the Armature returns to its original position.
In this type of Relay, this spring is NOT the coil type. The spring is a leaf type spring.
Several contacts.
When the Relay's coil (electromagnet) gets energized (by having current flow thru' it), it moves the Armature to close against another contact.
The Armature is the actual switch and completes or opens the circuit that will have the High Current flowing thru' it.
When the Relay's coil gets de-energized, it loses it's magnetic power and thus let's go of the Armature.
The Spring now acts on the Armature to place it back into its normally open position
The High Current circuit now becomes ' open' , thus stopping any current from reaching the component that was being fed with it.

ONTO TESTING

Relay Bench Test



OK, it's time to get our hands dirty and bench test the relay.

You'll need a power source to activate the relay (during the test) and this power source will be your vehicle's Battery.

As mentioned in the previous page, you'll need three very important things:

A Multimeter (analog or digital).
Two jumper wires with alligator clips on the ends.
Maybe a helper.

Alright, here are the test steps:

Connect terminal 2 of the Relay to the Battery's Ground Terminal with a Jumper Wire.
You can use the photo of the Relay with all of the connections, since the photos show the actual test.
If you don't have such a jumper wire (with alligator clips), you can run down to your local Radio Shack (even WalMart) and buy some alligator clips and make your own jumper wire.
Connect male spade terminal 1 to the Battery's Positive Terminal. This will energize and activate the Relay.
It's normal to hear a small clicking from the Relay when this connection is made.
With your Multimeter in Ohms mode, measure the resistance across the Relay's terminals 3 and 5 with the Multimeter leads (as seen in the photo).
It doesn't matter which color lead goes where, since the polarity does not matter for this test.
You may need a helper for this operation, unless your Multimeter leads have alligator clips on the end of the leads.
Your Multimeter should show continuity. If it doesn't show continuity, recheck all your connections and retest.
Remove and reconnect the jumper wire to terminal 1 several times, as you eye-ball the Multimeter.
When the jumper wire IS NOT connected to power, the Multimeter should show NO CONTINUITY.
When the jumper wire is connected to power, the Multimeter should show continuity.

OK, let's take a look at what your test results mean:

CASE 1: Your Multimeter showed continuity. This tells you that the Relay is OK and not the cause of the problem.

CASE 2: Your Multimeter DID NOT show continuity. This tells you that the Relay is BAD and needs to be replaced.

Both smaller relays are good. Going to find the test procedure on the other one that is square. I am thinking bad ground or a relay or switch. Anyone have an idea?

Update: I checked all relays under dash by steering wheel. I checked all relays in engine compartment on the power distro box. No change yet.

penske2584 said:

I would like to ask before I remove switches, door panels, and window motors. Are there window relays for each individual window or the whole system?

Issue:
=Front passenger window does not go down.
=Using master switch (drivers door) the front passenger window doesnt even engage.
=Using front passenger window switch, the window motor engages but barely moves. Its like it frozen during dead of winter.

I hope someone can help before I make more work than needed.

Click to expand...

Circuit diagrams may help you - look here:
Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
Login ID: rrcc
Login PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.

Other than the "one touch" relay, I don't think the other windows have relays in the circuit. The window switches put a ground on the motor to operate the window. All of them go thru the driver's side switch panel where the window lock switch is, so a broken wire in the driver's door can impact other windows. Therefore, look for broken wires in the door wiring bundle, especially the driver's door bundle. Good luck.

bobflood said:

Other than the "one touch" relay, I don't think the other windows have relays in the circuit. The window switches put a ground on the motor to operate the window. All of them go thru the driver's side switch panel where the window lock switch is, so a broken wire in the driver's door can impact other windows. Therefore, look for broken wires in the door wiring bundle, especially the driver's door bundle. Good luck.

Click to expand...

Thanks bobflood! I think I have Auto Ref & Chiltons through online library database. Not complete but I will check your link for sure in a few.

Ive been too busy to get to it until today. Checked all relays and fuses and tested them all. Got some switches and replaced them.

Ran jumper wires from (drivers) main switch to (passenger front) window motor. Works!

Tested all wires from main to pass switch and they have power but one of them that is supposed to.

The wire from main to pass switch looks the same, Im not 100% sure though. White with yellow stripe. Checked continuity. NONE!

Would this interrupt a circuit? Is one wire keeping it from working?

Im hoping the diagrams help me with where the heck that wire goes in the dash. Might have to splice it inside & under dash at drivers and pass side then run a new wire across.

Any ideas other than that?

I had a similar problem, passenger window did not operate from the drivers side but was normal from the passenger side controls.

I removed the plug from the wire harness on the drivers side door to body and peeled the harness back to discover a broken wire. Obviously broken.
Added shrink tubing and soldered back and have had no trouble since.

It seems to be a fairly common trouble area due to the type of wire Ford used.
I might look there first to see if its obvious.

It is tight to solder back if you have trouble in that door harness.

fixt said:

I had a similar problem, passenger window did not operate from the drivers side but was normal from the passenger side controls.

I removed the plug from the wire harness on the drivers side door to body and peeled the harness back to discover a broken wire. Obviously broken.
Added shrink tubing and soldered back and have had no trouble since.

It seems to be a fairly common trouble area due to the type of wire Ford used.
I might look there first to see if its obvious.

It is tight to solder back if you have trouble in that door harness.

Click to expand...

I found the white/yellow wire travels from passenger front door to drivers door via the 2nd row seat.

Under the plastic molding is a metal track cover. I plan to remove this to expose the whole wiring. I know I shouldn't even try to lift it up if the wiring is that brittle.

Instead I am going to run a wire from door to door on this track route and reconnect inside the door on the window switch. Hopefully I can reuse the connector. Not sure where to find the connector.



Thanks for helping out guys/gals (if any helped).