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160 or 180 degrees?

I'm planning on installing a Diablo chip on my 5.0L Mountaineer but before doing that, I understand I need to replace my thermostat.

Do you guys recommend a 180 degree or a 160 degree thermostat?

...

To sum everything up, when using the Diablo chip, I need to use premium gasoline, and replace my thermostat. Anything else I must do so I won't damage my engine or transmission?

Thanks.
 



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What does Diablo recommend? I would use their recommendation.

Good luck.....
 






180 is the norm with ANY chip/programmer. i would advise against going 160, i did this before, and let me tell you your heater will not work very well in winter. you can get one for cheap at autozone, just understand that they arent gonna have one listed for X's, only 195's. just get a 180 for a mustang or anything else for ford. it will work. be sure to also get a thermostat housing gasket.
 






Thanks James!


Everyone here is so kind... kinda like a fairy tale.
 






Yeah, I had to get the same one as I did for my 94 Mustang 5.0 cause they didnt list one for my Explorer. It was exactly the same and works great.
 






how hard is it to change the thermostat on a first gen explorer?
 






It's not hard, just 3 bolts. It's called TEDIOUS!!!!

YOu MUST have the right tools for the job. 1 bolt is extremely hard to get at because of the belt tensioner pully-bracket.

The bolts are 10mm (assuming they have not been changed already by a previous owner, long story, Moab, ask Brian) An open end wrench can get in there and turn the top left bolt out, getting it back in is the tricky part.

The problem is the lower intake manifold is aluminum and the bolts are steel. It is VERY easy to cross thread the third bolt (top left), which can cause a coolant leak.

3 of the 4.0L's I have worked on (pre 95) have had stripped, crossthreaded, or larger then factory bolts in that top left corner.



You will need:
10mm open end wrench, the smaller the better
10mm 1/4" drive socket (the smaller the better, I have one I grinded about 1/4" off of so it will fit in there, after MOAB it was time to make this tool)
1/4" drive wobbley (you know the CV joint thingy)
1/4" 3-4" extension


If you are lucky you can fit the socket in there, if you grind down a 10mm like I did it will fit (haha!!!)

You can use tape to hold the bolt to your socket when it is time to put it back in, unless you are 4 years old your fingers will not fit in there, hold the bolt, and turn it to get it started. Maybe if you are a Jedi you can work it out without sticky tape.
MAKE sure you dont CROSS thread this bolt!!!!!! believe me it feels like it is going in fine, but it's not.


It's also a good idea to have a stick - magnet ready to pick up the bolt you will drop 3-4 times at least.

Also you will loose coolant, dont let it get all over the ground, you can drain the system first, but there is usually still coolant in the intake (good time for a flush and fill)

So the thermostat is not hard to replace in theory, but getting to that 3rd bolt is a real PITA without the RIGHT tools. (grind the socket down, trust me, look and you will see......)
 






where is this thermostate u guys are talking about. can i replace it eventhough i do not have a superchip?
 












I normally recommend staying with the stock thermostat. However, (especially on a 5.0), a slightly lower one is sometimes needed for best performance with a chip; especially if the chip calls for it.

Between 160 and 180 Id go with the 180. Between 180 and 195, go with whatever they recommend.
 






Aldive: You've got it 1/2 right. The computer wants to see a minimum coolant tempature of 190 degrees to switch from closed loop to open loop operation. A 180 thermostat will not keep your coolant from reaching 190 degree's (at least not with a stock cooling system).

My truck (as stated before) has a OVERKILL cooling system, meaning I have the heaviest duty cooling system that was available with a OHV 4.0L, like if you bought a 96 Explorer with an automatic, towing package, and A/C, then added the largest tranny cooler you could find.
Now I have a 180 stat installed and my truck runs at a minimum tempature of 190 degree's (once it;s warmend up) It will get as hot as 215 degree's when towing a fully loaded boat up the rockies (about 4500# total), but thats it. With a 195 stat it will run at 205 degrees minimum and it gets up to almost 230 when towing the same fully loaded boat through the rockies. 230 degrees is not overheating (Almost), but it's too hot if you ask me....

Bottom line. The people who know and want as much Horse power as possible, dont want detonation to occur, and run their trucks HARD will be using 180 thermostats. It may cost me 1MPG in fuel mileage, but I make up for that (big time) with my other mods.....

So a 195 stat will not hurt your truck, but if you want to run a chip, tow a heavy trialer, climb big hills, do some serious 4x4ing in the 125 degree desert, or basically run your truck hard, you should consider a 180 stat.

You dont have to take my word for it, do some research. Go talk to Pat Kunz, or Sven Pruett. These guys know all there is to know about the Cologne 60 degree V6 family of engines. Go ask somebody at Ford Motor Sports, go ask on the EPEC boards, go ask the guys at the EEC tuner boards, go ask the chip makers, go ask the guys at Saleen, go ask the guys at your local 4x4 shops, go ask the guys at your local Mustang shops, go ask the guys at the drag strip, go look at the Ranger forums, then tell me that a 180 stat will hurt your engine...or heck go tell my engine!
 






Alec, just curious, what stat do you have in your blown 4.0?
 






stocker. on the stock temp gauge, it usually runs at about 1/3. 1/2 if I'm really really pushing it. a little over 1/2 if I'm pushing it with a 4000# trailer.
 






Alec, so you have a 195 in there? What radiator, and fan do you have? The 4 core, full shroud, and the 11 blade fan?

just curious. My ol 2.9L used to run about 1/2-3/4 with the stock gauge, but thats with the timing advanced to 13, ported intakes, spacers, MSD ignition, etc, etc.....

I just got back from the flaming gorge last weekend. This was the "big" test with my new automatic tranny. Basically it's a 400 mile one way trip with some medium hill climbs through most of Wyoming and some of Utah. It was 90 degree's outside, I had my 220# buddy with me, and the boat was fully loaded with enough camping gear, boat gear, and 6 cases of beer, for 4 people and 1 week. The truck was also packed with coolers, tools, extra batteries, etc... so all in all I had a fully loaded BII with about #4000 worth of boat and trailer. We averaged 75 MPH the whole way there. The new A4LD I had built shifts hard! Some modifications to the throttle body were made just for this purpose and she'll stick in 2nd gear until 4600 RPM's and then slam into 3rd. I was worried on the way out there a little because it was slamming through the gears so hard. But the tempature never got above 215 degree's and as soon as the road flattened out it would drop quickly right back down to 195-200. Very impressed with the cooling system and the tranny....also impressed with the 8.8 rear and the custom driveshaft. The Skyjacker tranny mount didnt flinch either.....pretty happy with the results of all this hard work.....
 






Glad to hear that it's doing well.

My cooling system is totally stock, with some parts replaced over the years. But yes, I believe it is the HD radiator and 11 blade fan. Oh, I do have an a/m tranny cooler.
 






Originally posted by 410Fortune
Aldive: You've got it 1/2 right. The computer wants to see a minimum coolant tempature of 190 degrees to switch from closed loop to open loop operation. A 180 thermostat will not keep your coolant from reaching 190 degree's (at least not with a stock cooling system).

My truck (as stated before) has a OVERKILL cooling system, meaning I have the heaviest duty cooling system that was available with a OHV 4.0L, like if you bought a 96 Explorer with an automatic, towing package, and A/C, then added the largest tranny cooler you could find.
Now I have a 180 stat installed and my truck runs at a minimum tempature of 190 degree's (once it;s warmend up) It will get as hot as 215 degree's when towing a fully loaded boat up the rockies (about 4500# total), but thats it. With a 195 stat it will run at 205 degrees minimum and it gets up to almost 230 when towing the same fully loaded boat through the rockies. 230 degrees is not overheating (Almost), but it's too hot if you ask me....

Bottom line. The people who know and want as much Horse power as possible, dont want detonation to occur, and run their trucks HARD will be using 180 thermostats. It may cost me 1MPG in fuel mileage, but I make up for that (big time) with my other mods.....

So a 195 stat will not hurt your truck, but if you want to run a chip, tow a heavy trialer, climb big hills, do some serious 4x4ing in the 125 degree desert, or basically run your truck hard, you should consider a 180 stat.

You dont have to take my word for it, do some research. Go talk to Pat Kunz, or Sven Pruett. These guys know all there is to know about the Cologne 60 degree V6 family of engines. Go ask somebody at Ford Motor Sports, go ask on the EPEC boards, go ask the guys at the EEC tuner boards, go ask the chip makers, go ask the guys at Saleen, go ask the guys at your local 4x4 shops, go ask the guys at your local Mustang shops, go ask the guys at the drag strip, go look at the Ranger forums, then tell me that a 180 stat will hurt your engine...or heck go tell my engine!

Running here in sunny ( read hotttt ) Floridam my coolant temp never gets over 195 F. This is based on an OBD II scanner hooked up while running.
 






Originally posted by aldive
Running here in sunny ( read hotttt ) Floridam my coolant temp never gets over 195 F. This is based on an OBD II scanner hooked up while running.

But that temp is not pulling a heavy load, etc. Like 410Fortune said, if you tow, race, etc, a 180 is the best bet.
 






I have found that 4x4ing is harder on the engine then any other thing, towing is hard but she only really heats up when some serious hill climbing, low range, mud slinging is going on.....
 






Originally posted by RTStork


But that temp is not pulling a heavy load, etc. Like 410Fortune said, if you tow, race, etc, a 180 is the best bet.

Well, I shall have to tell the trailer that I pull, that its ok to get hotter than 195 F.
 



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