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2001 Sport Trac Aftermarket Security System

koda2000

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Hello fellows. I haven't posted here in a while. I haven't had to fix anything on my Explorers in a couple of years as near as I can remember.

Some History:
When I first got my '01 Sport Trac back in 2015 I recall posting about having some weird electrical gremlins and thinking they were somehow security system related because if I "aggravated" the system the headlights would flash on/off for about a minute and the dash lights would come on and stay on. I recall wondering if perhaps the previous owner had installed an aftermarket security system, but I never went looking for one as otherwise the factory PATS system worked fine and as long as I didn't mess with the system by repeatedly turning the key on/off (like when trying to program a key fob, or when I turned off the annoying seat belt reminder chime) the flashing headlights issue didn't get triggered. The ST did not come with any key fobs (factory or other) and there wasn't a siren or obvious non-factory wiring installed on the truck anywhere.

The Problem:
The other day I drove from my house to the street to get my mail. When I stopped at the end of my driveway the engine just died and the starter wouldn't crank. No click, nothing. I tried switching from PARK to NEUTRAL but still no crank. I opened the hood and wiggled the battery terminals and connection to the power distribution box. Everything was tight and clean. Then I let the truck roll backwards to get it off my driveway and tried other electrical systems (like the windows, door locks, blower fan, radio, wipers) and everything worked normally. Then I tried the starter again and it cranked, the engine started, ran and the truck drove normally. In repeated testing the starter motor would sometimes crank and sometimes not. The next day I cleaned the battery terminals and power distribution box connections, checked the starter and alternator wiring connections, and swapped the starter relay. Everything seemed fine. I had a spare starter motor and decided to install it though I didn't see how the starter could have caused the engine to have stalled in the first place. My concern was that as it happened multiple times, it would continue to happen again, and I didn't want to take the chance on it happening in traffic.

Analysis/Diagnosis:
While I pondered the issue, I decided to fix something that's been bugging me for about a year now, in that the PRNDL indicator needle has gotten way out of adjustment to the point where it's hard to tell what gear I'm selecting. I pulled the plastic lower panel from the dash and the steel reinforcement panel to gain access to the PRNDL cable adjustment wheel and was shocked to find a rat's nest of aftermarket wiring connected to a black box stuffed under the steering column. I'm pretty sure it's a dealer installed aftermarket security system, but there are wires running everywhere, many of which have in-line fuses and they are "vampire spliced" into the truck's factory wiring. There are even 3 wires which are twist-spliced into other factory wires and are poorly wrapped with black electrical tape.

Opinion & The Fix:
IDK why people let "stealerships" convince them these systems are a good ideal (or necessary) when they buy a new vehicle. Just to make money I suppose. In my experience if these aftermarket systems don't cause problems, then the ****ty installation of them will. This device has got to go! I'm just concerned that removing it may prevent the truck from working as it should. I'm planning to carefully document what device wire is currently connected to which factory wire before I start pulling/cutting wires just in case things don't go as planned. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 



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Welcome back!

I'm surprised it worked this long. Yes it needs to go, or re-do every connection, but no point without fobs for it.

Besides the starter, what do you suspect it's doing to kill the engine, maybe fuel pump or CKPS disconnect?
 






Welcome back!

I'm surprised it worked this long. Yes it needs to go, or re-do every connection, but no point without fobs for it.

Besides the starter, what do you suspect it's doing to kill the engine, maybe fuel pump or CKPS disconnect?
My guess is that the device interrupts the ignition switch signal to the starter and maybe disables the coils or the CKPS. When the engine stalled it just stopped dead like you turned the key off and not like it ran out of fuel. I have no idea why the device requires sooo many wire connections though. I'm not curious enough to try to figure it out. No point. I just want it gone. Weird device, you wouldn't think it would require so many wires to just kill the CKPS and/or starter. In everything I've had apart on this truck over the eight years I've owned it you'd think I would have had the dash apart before now and seen the device, but I guess I never had any reason to look in that area. At least the electrical "gremlins" are finally explained. Another thing the ST has always done that is unlike any of my other Explorer's/Mountaineer's is that when you get out, lock the doors and close the door the parking lights front and rear blink once. I just thought it was a ST thing, but I wonder if this will stop once the device is gone. Also, when I turn the key to the off position, I can't play the radio or work my power windows unless I turn the key to the ON or ACC position (unlike I can do with all my other Ex's until I open my door). Another "gremlin" maybe?

I don't have time to mess with the device right now, so I just left the lower dash off so I can get easy access to the thing. I drove the ST to town today with no issues, so messing with the wires must have done something. Probably a bad connection at one if the 3 twist-spliced connections... ?
 






Hello fellows. I haven't posted here in a while. I haven't had to fix anything on my Explorers in a couple of years as near as I can remember.

Some History:
When I first got my '01 Sport Trac back in 2015 I recall posting about having some weird electrical gremlins and thinking they were somehow security system related because if I "aggravated" the system the headlights would flash on/off for about a minute and the dash lights would come on and stay on. I recall wondering if perhaps the previous owner had installed an aftermarket security system, but I never went looking for one as otherwise the factory PATS system worked fine and as long as I didn't mess with the system by repeatedly turning the key on/off (like when trying to program a key fob, or when I turned off the annoying seat belt reminder chime) the flashing headlights issue didn't get triggered. The ST did not come with any key fobs (factory or other) and there wasn't a siren or obvious non-factory wiring installed on the truck anywhere.

The Problem:
The other day I drove from my house to the street to get my mail. When I stopped at the end of my driveway the engine just died and the starter wouldn't crank. No click, nothing. I tried switching from PARK to NEUTRAL but still no crank. I opened the hood and wiggled the battery terminals and connection to the power distribution box. Everything was tight and clean. Then I let the truck roll backwards to get it off my driveway and tried other electrical systems (like the windows, door locks, blower fan, radio, wipers) and everything worked normally. Then I tried the starter again and it cranked, the engine started, ran and the truck drove normally. In repeated testing the starter motor would sometimes crank and sometimes not. The next day I cleaned the battery terminals and power distribution box connections, checked the starter and alternator wiring connections, and swapped the starter relay. Everything seemed fine. I had a spare starter motor and decided to install it though I didn't see how the starter could have caused the engine to have stalled in the first place. My concern was that as it happened multiple times, it would continue to happen again, and I didn't want to take the chance on it happening in traffic.

Analysis/Diagnosis:
While I pondered the issue, I decided to fix something that's been bugging me for about a year now, in that the PRNDL indicator needle has gotten way out of adjustment to the point where it's hard to tell what gear I'm selecting. I pulled the plastic lower panel from the dash and the steel reinforcement panel to gain access to the PRNDL cable adjustment wheel and was shocked to find a rat's nest of aftermarket wiring connected to a black box stuffed under the steering column. I'm pretty sure it's a dealer installed aftermarket security system, but there are wires running everywhere, many of which have in-line fuses and they are "vampire spliced" into the truck's factory wiring. There are even 3 wires which are twist-spliced into other factory wires and are poorly wrapped with black electrical tape.

Opinion & The Fix:
IDK why people let "stealerships" convince them these systems are a good ideal (or necessary) when they buy a new vehicle. Just to make money I suppose. In my experience if these aftermarket systems don't cause problems, then the ****ty installation of them will. This device has got to go! I'm just concerned that removing it may prevent the truck from working as it should. I'm planning to carefully document what device wire is currently connected to which factory wire before I start pulling/cutting wires just in case things don't go as planned. I'll let you know how it turns out.
woah, phil is back!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






If you can ID the make/model of the box, maybe there's installation instructions out there that shows the wiring.

I imagine it does have a ton of wires if it can sense (maybe) doors or hood switch, flash headlights, maybe fire horn, disconnect starter and whichever other kills the engine.

Maybe just solder up the twist splices for the time being. As you stated, you don't want it dying while driving.
 






Welcome back koda
Nice to hear from you!
 






Good to hear from you, Phil!

Neither of my STs allow the radio to play or windows to work with the key off. I don't know that I've ever had a vehicle that did, but I know what you're talking about. My '02 had virtually no options, but the '01 came with most of the options available short of the upgraded radio/stereo. My lights don't flash when I lock the door and get out either, so that's probably a function of the security system you found.
 






Update:
I had a few minutes to look more closely at the aftermarket security system wiring today (pending its removal) and OMG! there seem to be 2 other components the wiring goes to. In addition to the large black box under the steering column, there's a smaller black box attached to the dash on the right side and a rack of 4 or 5 relays on the left side. I might have thought the relays were factory (a bit like the ones found over the gas pedal on by '01 EB) but the way the rack is installed, with one Philip's screw in one corner and the fact that each relay seems to have its own in-line mini fuse (plus the smaller black box on the right side is also flopping around on a single Philip's screw) tells me all this crap is not factory. This exaction is starting to look more daunting than I originally thought.
 






Even if you can't find the installation instructions for this particular make/model security system, maybe there is at least some info out there about all things it monitors and controls so you can reverse engineer which wires it would have to be hacked into, to do that.
 






Even if you can't find the installation instructions for this particular make/model security system, maybe there is at least some info out there about all things it monitors and controls so you can reverse engineer which wires it would have to be hacked into, to do that.
Yeah, I'll see how it goes when I have the time to dig into it.
 






1 of those little black boxes may have a key in it
sounds like a remote start
 






1 of those little black boxes may have a key in it
sounds like a remote start
IDK they're both rather large for being a place just to put a key in them. I guess I'll know more when I take all this stuff off the truck. If the weather wasn't nasty through the weekend, I'd take a pic of what I'm seeing and post it. I could use a second key for this vehicle. It only came with one. I bought a spare but have never gotten it cut or programmed.
 






Update (hopefully final update):
The weather was nice today in GA (60+ F) so I decided to dive into the removal of whatever it was installed in my dash. Quite the job. Removed 3 black boxes, 6 relays a ton of wiring with in-line fuses. When I was done, I was left with 4 small-gauge mystery wires and a ground. As everything was now removed and I couldn't tell were 3 of the wires went to I decided to try starting the ST. A bit to my surprise it started right up, and everything still seems to work. I cut all 5 wires insulated them in shrink wrap and stuffed them into the dash.

Of what was removed, one of the black boxes had an uncut OE Ford transponder key in it and the box was connected to the ignition key chip transceiver. I assume this was part of a remote start system. As the truck' ECM must recognize this key if I can get it cut without damaging its chip, I'll have a working spare key. I have no idea what all the other stuff does, but there was one wire that had a push-button the end of it. Some kind of a bypass switch, I guess. I checked the 4 manually spliced OE wires and although they were not soldered, they were excellently manually spliced, so I just rewrapped them in fresh electrical tape.

This setup and its installation must have cost the original a fortune! If I think of it, I may eventually post a pic of the components I removed. Just glad to be rid of all this junk. Way too many points of failure for my taste.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!
 






You can have that key cut I just called my son on the phone he does locksmith for a living they'll put it in and cut it right at the hardware store because it already has the chip in it you just treat it as a normal key

I knew there was gonna be a key in there :)
 






You can have that key cut I just called my son on the phone he does locksmith for a living they'll put it in and cut it right at the hardware store because it already has the chip in it you just treat it as a normal key

I knew there was gonna be a key in there :)
Yep, you were right about the key donalds. I asked my daughter (she works at Home Depot) if she could cut it, but she said that she doesn't think that their machine will cut a chipped key. IDK, that doesn't make sense to me. I'll call my Ace Hardware on Friday and see what they say. If worse comes to worst, I suppose I can always take it into my Ford dealer to have them just cut it.
 






, I suppose I can always take it into my Ford dealer to have them just cut it.
I paid $5 at the ford dealer to have a non chip key cut
You know for the doors and rear hatch
surely they'll cut yours
 






Welcome back Phil, and I'm glad you got that mess removed.

Most big aftermarket wiring issues come from when they tap into the main ignition wires badly, with whatever they have on hand to crimp(vampire etc) with. Those are what I dread to find with any used car I buy. I had to pass on two used dash harnesses(2001-2002 Mustang) I looked at for my Lincoln project, they had visible vampire connectors among the wires.
 






The push button switch might have something to do with “Valet Mode”… the Viper alarm in my Paseo has one.
 






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