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2007 Ford Explorer 100$ bounty

Chilekevin

New Member
Joined
July 10, 2020
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
City, State
Riverside california
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer xlt
Took it to ford and paid 1000$ to have nothing fixed
and for it to come back with an oil and coolant leak
that’s gonna cost me an additional 1000$ to repair
from quotes with the initial problem still being
present. I don’t have the money. Anybody willing to
give me advice that actually has time under the
hood im willing to Venmo or zelle you 100$ for your
time.
So I even had the coolant fluid changed. The ac
compressor changed. And nothing.
Signs and symptoms are as follows
1. Rough idle
2. Stalls at stops( such as intersections)
3. I notice if I let go of the gas the idle starts to have
issues
4. The ac compressor, despite being changed
keeps clicking on and off. A mechanic supposedly
detached a cord or supply line/ ac relay that is suppose to
shut it off but it kept clicking on and off
5. Ac blows cold air randomly other times just
blows exterior hot air.
6. Engine check light goes on and off. I will attempt
to find my cheap reader and provide the trouble
codes if it helps. Currently has no trouble codes to
read.
I believe that is all. Any help or tips are welcome
and like I said if someone can provide me with the
answer alone I’m willing to compensate you at least
100$ via zelle or Venmo. I know hardly anything
about cars but I’m a quick learner. Thanks for your
time
 



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First, welcome to the forums. You will get a lot of good feedback and education from this site but what you need to do is find a good repair shop. Maybe someone here can recommend one to you. Don't use ones that throws parts at problems hoping it will be the fix. Good shops do methodical checks of components to track the problem to a specific part failure. Reading trouble codes does not tell you what needs fixed. They point you in a direction to start diagnosing parts, wiring etc. to pinpoint the problem. YouTube videos are another great resource for you to use. One I find useful is here: FordTechMakuloco You do need to spend time educating yourself of the issues your vehicle can have. This will take time. Search the forums here and read threads dealing with issues like you describe.
 






Welcome to this forum! It sounds like you may need to charge the A/C since cycling is what happens when the charge is low. A manifold gauge set will show the high & low pressure readings. Surging might be due to a vacuum leak. Check the lines for leaks. Autozone could read the codes for you for free. Find out what the code numbers are then post them here. As for the coolant leak, Autozone has a cooling system pressure tester that they loan when you pay for the tool then get your money back after you return it to them. Always use the pressure tester with the engine off, and don't open a hot radiator cap.
 






Welcome to this forum! It sounds like you may need to charge the A/C since cycling is what happens when the charge is low. A manifold gauge set will show the high & low pressure readings. Surging might be due to a vacuum leak. Check the lines for leaks. Autozone could read the codes for you for free. Find out what the code numbers are then post them here. As for the coolant leak, Autozone has a cooling system pressure tester that they loan when you pay for the tool then get your money back after you return it to them. Always use the pressure tester with the engine off, and don't open a hot radiator cap.
The coolant system has been purged and filled/charged before and at the time the compressor was swapped
 






The coolant system has been purged and filled/charged before and at the time the compressor was swapped
This would not fix a leak somewhere else in the AC system. You could still be leaking refrigerant and low refrigerant levels would cause the compressor to cycle on and off. If the shop that replaced the compressor put dye in the refrigerant when they refilled the system then this will help locate a leak it it exists. The dye is florescent and will glow under a black light.
 






Check high side Schrader valve on driver side near radiator, just replaced mine on my 2007 it was leaking, vacuum and recharge, mine has rear ac so it takes about 47 oz to fill.
 












Brittle wire harness....take it to the bank.
 






This would not fix a leak somewhere else in the AC system. You could still be leaking refrigerant and low refrigerant levels would cause the compressor to cycle on and off. If the shop that replaced the compressor put dye in the refrigerant when they refilled the system then this will help locate a leak it it exists. The dye is florescent and will glow under a black light.
Leak has now been fixed but the idle issue which was suppose to be fixed by ford has not been resolved. Continues to have idling issues at halts and even stalled again
 












Took it to ford and paid 1000$ to have nothing fixed
and for it to come back with an oil and coolant leak
that’s gonna cost me an additional 1000$ to repair
from quotes with the initial problem still being
present. I don’t have the money. Anybody willing to
give me advice that actually has time under the
hood im willing to Venmo or zelle you 100$ for your
time.
So I even had the coolant fluid changed. The ac
compressor changed. And nothing.
Signs and symptoms are as follows
1. Rough idle
2. Stalls at stops( such as intersections)
3. I notice if I let go of the gas the idle starts to have
issues
4. The ac compressor, despite being changed
keeps clicking on and off. A mechanic supposedly
detached a cord or supply line/ ac relay that is suppose to
shut it off but it kept clicking on and off
5. Ac blows cold air randomly other times just
blows exterior hot air.
6. Engine check light goes on and off. I will attempt
to find my cheap reader and provide the trouble
codes if it helps. Currently has no trouble codes to
read.
I believe that is all. Any help or tips are welcome
and like I said if someone can provide me with the
answer alone I’m willing to compensate you at least
100$ via zelle or Venmo. I know hardly anything
about cars but I’m a quick learner. Thanks for your
time
Sounds like a vacuum issue, or a wiring harness issue, or even possibly a computer issue. The problem is, these trucks have so many ghosts in them when they get older it's hard to figure out what is going on, also just because they are known to affect the transmission when they go bad, have you checked your coils? Maybe one or a few is interfering with the vehicle functions due to them being bad? I'd recommend checking the boots and checking for any arcing and the like.
 






Took it to ford and paid 1000$ to have nothing fixed
and for it to come back with an oil and coolant leak
that’s gonna cost me an additional 1000$ to repair
from quotes with the initial problem still being
present. I don’t have the money. Anybody willing to
give me advice that actually has time under the
hood im willing to Venmo or zelle you 100$ for your
time.
So I even had the coolant fluid changed. The ac
compressor changed. And nothing.
Signs and symptoms are as follows
1. Rough idle
2. Stalls at stops( such as intersections)
3. I notice if I let go of the gas the idle starts to have
issues
4. The ac compressor, despite being changed
keeps clicking on and off. A mechanic supposedly
detached a cord or supply line/ ac relay that is suppose to
shut it off but it kept clicking on and off
5. Ac blows cold air randomly other times just
blows exterior hot air.
6. Engine check light goes on and off. I will attempt
to find my cheap reader and provide the trouble
codes if it helps. Currently has no trouble codes to
read.
I believe that is all. Any help or tips are welcome
and like I said if someone can provide me with the
answer alone I’m willing to compensate you at least
100$ via zelle or Venmo. I know hardly anything
about cars but I’m a quick learner. Thanks for your
time
Weak in the details! What engine and trim do you have?
 






Sounds like a vacuum issue, or a wiring harness issue, or even possibly a computer issue. The problem is, these trucks have so many ghosts in them when they get older it's hard to figure out what is going on, also just because they are known to affect the transmission when they go bad, have you checked your coils? Maybe one or a few is interfering with the vehicle functions due to them being bad? I'd recommend checking the boots and checking for any arcing and the like.
Ditto on the vacuum and harness. Check out this thread.
 






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