2010 oil change

[rockey95]

Folks, i just too my "new to me" 2010 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6 in for the first oil change since i've had it, it just turned over 67,000 miles. Anyway i had a Firstone coupon for $19.99 and when i went to get my car and pay they told me $55.00 and i said what? Anyways the manager, who i know and got to explain this to me, is that Ford recommends for my vehicle a synthetic blend, he did lower the bill to the normal oil change since the guy who got my car this morning didnt explain that to me.
My question is this, do you folks run a synthetic blend in your 2010's or do you run regular 10w30 or what?
does Ford actually recommend a Synthetic blend also?
Thanks
rockey

 

[Tech By Trade]

Last change was 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic and a motocraft filter. Cost me about 60 bucks and I did it myself. I have only ever run synthetic myself due to the poor design of the timing cassettes and trying to prolong the life of this POS engine. Not sure about fords recommendations.

 

[jtexplorer]

Yes, Ford recommends Motorcraft 5w-30 synthetic blend. I always change my own oil and I always run Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 and K&N filters. Oil changes could be a lot cheaper if I went with store brand oil and garbage filters, but I will not skimp on the single most important fluid for engine longevity.

- Joe

 

[07EddyB]

Yes - they've always specified a synthetic blend. I'm running a full synthetic with 5K intervals. The great Internet debate has always been about why lower viscosities and blends are recommended - is it about the engine life or the Mpg? When you solve that please let us know.

 

[tripplec]

A lot of engine have 5W20 as the recommended grade for a long time. Some of this if for millage ratings and others due to its engineering to accept that lighter grade. Not to say most won't take 5W30 just as well. I refer to the owners manual as well.

However, "Synthetic blend" off the shelve its more expensive than many excellent full synthetic product from mainstream oil companies EG Quakerstate, Pennzoil, Castrol, to name a few. All dino oil is compatible by design to accept synthetic mixed with it. To me a BLEND may be 3 units of Dino + 1 unit of Synthetic and you are paying double.

I would go full synthetic and be done with it. I would be very concerned at the oil filter they use. I haven't been to one of these oil change shops for well the last century !!! To me an oil filter key. I used Wix Filters almost exclusively (never Fram) whenever I can. The shop I believer spin on whatever the oil jockey has listed will fit I am sure. Many times you can tell since the size is different as well from the oem or premium filter you had from somewhere else.

 

[Rcflyer330]

If you do some research on base oils in motor oil you will find out there are 5 groups of base stock. group 1 is the least refined dyno oil. Group 2 is more refined dyno oil and may be produced with some hydrocracking. Group 3 is the most refined dyno oil produced with hydrocracking and is also called "synthetic" but it is still dyno oil. Group 4 is a true synthetic oil it is not made from crude oil. Group 5 is also a true synthetic oil and is usually biodegradable.

sythentic blends usually are made with group 2 and 3 base stocks. And full synthetics are mostly group 3 base with some group 4.

I have used both synthetic, synthetic blends in my 4l. They include oils made by amsoil, ford, pensoil, redline, and royal purple. I also did oil reports with them and they all came out well. Except when the oil was the spring oil change then my iron went way up due to very long periods of ideling in the winter months. But since I have stopped ideling my car so much during the winter the iron in the oil has come down. I also like the royal purple oil filters.

 

[tripplec]

True few jugs if any indicate their stock content. Latest stuff I have seen indicated its made with Natural Gas (Pennsoil Ultra Platium series boast that), Castrol as well has their various synthetic magic.

If I want to run a blend I can buy liters of synthetic and the same oil company's premium dino oil and mix it my self. It would likely have more synthetic content then theirs. Also much cheaper for me if I did that. Shell Rotella line is liquid engineering but most grades are a little heavy for our auto engines. Never the less oil companies with billions of dollars and massive labs surely will be put any 5th tier oil rebrander supplier like Royal purple, Amsoil to shame. Some product did not have an SAE rating I had seen even. They aren't oil companies just remarking some product made by someone else.

I stick to the big names in Oil only whatever their base stock configuration. Its far cheaper (getting it on sale) and quick to do an oil change with a quality name brand filter.

Thats my opinion and I've given it decades of thought with many vehicles.

 

[rockey95]

Thanks folks for explaining this to me, i need to get the manual out and look thru it.
Thanks agian

 

[tripplec]

I buy Full Synthetic here on sale about $30 give or take on brand and where. Wix Filter about $8 all plus taxes. I know what I am putting in and don't have to worry about some turkey stripping the oil plug or using a really bad oil filter. Some places cut back and don't even change them. The turke working down under in a quick change may just wipe it clean and thats it. You have no idea of what grade is put in. Back in the day engines were not that sensitive to grade but now some engines need a specific grade to lube properly. They have bulk pump filler an pump it in and likely overfill as well. ALL Bad...

 

[jtexplorer]

tripplec what brand/weight/quantity of oil to you buy for $30 on here? Very vague! I think everyone who reads your post will be wondering the same question.

Thanks.
- Joe

 

[tripplec]

Last batch were Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Their top line in 5w20 for my son's Explorer. Was about $34 less a Pennzoil $10 rebate from Shell on 5L purchase. Castrol is available around the same price but no rebates on it. I just watch for the sales and pickup several jugs at a time.

I bought some 5w30 a while back for his old explorer at the same deal an my own SUV.

 

[rmcalis]

tripplec what brand/weight/quantity of oil to you buy for $30 on here?

I see Mobil 1 on sale at Wal-Mart for less than $30 for a 5 qt jug from time to time. I aways use MotorCraft 5W-30 semi-synthetic in my '10, along with a Motorcraft filter.

 

[tripplec]

If you have the V6 4.0L thats ok but the 4.6L specifically specifies 5W20 only. I went out and bought 3 jugs for it on sale.

 

[Tech By Trade]

If your looking for info on oil or filters "bob is the oil guy" is a great resource. Tons of info over there.

 

[tripplec]

I find the info there is more speculation and a lot of guessing by poster and not much on experts etc. A lot is quite old and things have changed a lot.
IMO your first point of reference should be your owners manual. The engineers here at Ford specify options for a reason. Working with what they say and upgrade to synthetic or not depends on a lot. I notice they don't suggest a Dino generial oil for the 4.6L, a semi synthetic which implies the synthetic benefits are a key requirement. So just go all the way to full synthetic as its easier to find and cheaper an your're protecting to the max. Sludge and varnishing is a by product of dino oils run too hot too long and should be eliminated with name brand synthetic in my opinion. SAE specified QuakerState, Pennzoil, Castrol, Shell, to name few (all are bonafide oil companies!!) stick to major brands. Someone trying to out do them with snake oil additives like STP in the olden days does more harm then good.

 

[Rev.Spongebobsp]

FYI, as I search for the correct weight oil as a starter, I always check out the AutoZone ad. This week they have Mobile 1 Syn or high mileage Syn with a filter for $33.99. Not shabby, and free home shipping. I love the free home shipping as we are 30 miles from AutoZone.

 

[tripplec]

I would not touch any HIGH MILLAGE OIL. I had bad experience on two vehicle a long time ago with Valvoline. Took out all the rubber seal in two chrysler vehicles. Big repairs!!!

Stick to the regular oil. Mobile 1 Syn as you mention above.

High millage oil have additives over and above others. Most will attack and soften rubber (assuming its hardened) which is the last thing you want for them to let go on you.

 

[rockey95]

so i do have another question concerning oil, i bought mine with 57,000 miles on it in 2016 and i have not put almost 10,000 miles on it, i'm not sure what the original owner used although i would "assume" it was done by owners manual by the way the older lady too care of it but can i switch to Full Synthetic if a blend has been used since day 1, i hear alot of talk about it harming the seals and gaskets?
Also, if full synthetic is used what is a good range as far as mileage to go between oil change?

Thanks

 

[tripplec]

Ouch mine would have been twice for sure in that time!! Both engines need frequent changes to ensure and minimize wear and damage to key areas. Timing chain guides for one and others. Switching to synthetic can be done at any time and it has many benefits including the ability to clean the sins of poor maintenance by being able to clean better than regular oil. Some manufactures advertise this point.

I don't go over 5000km unless I have an exceptionally good reason. Like a number of very long millage drives 400km or more in a day which get me there faster. Less contamination in long drives on the highway. Knowone is exempt from the severe server category if you study what qualifies as this. 12000 miles/km is a pipe dream.

This is the cheapest repair you can do bar any so why risk major trouble by not doing them very regularly.

 

[Dag06XLT]

<$30 at Ford dealer for Motorcraft (MC) oil filter and 5w-30 MC oil (semi-syn), provide an inspection report and once on the mailing list, I get coupon for even cheaper. My service light goes on at about 5-6K and I use it as a tow vehicle (pontoon & snowmobiles). Why would I ever climb under my truck again? Don't overthink the whole sythetic thing, the only advantage using it in the Explorer is longer drain intervals or if you are regularly starting in -40F weather. We are not hitting 300F+ oil temps like a turbo or race applications. If you not extending your change intervals, its waste and not "better" - Also - please stay away from Bob the Oil Guy site, it is 95% self-proclaimed experts with only 5% solid people that understand oil and it's automotive applications. I raced BMW M3's for quite a while and my partner was brainwashed by that site and cost us a lot of money with stupid advise from "experts". Overthinking will just confuse you.