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4R/5R No Forward

Gotasee

New Member
Joined
January 5, 2008
Messages
7
Points
0
City, State
Mesquite, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Ranger
Newbie here, appreciate the info I have read so far. Here is my story, hope some one can help

95 Ranger, 3.0, 5r55e. Used truck, tranny slipped (seems now like 2-3 flare), tranny shop found bad switch and replaced, helped for a while. Gradually got worse. 70 MOH on freeway lost forward. Towed home. Researched here, looks like VB. Replaced with rebuilt VB from local shop. Old VB had 2 bad gasket locations. Do not have inch/lb torque wrench, non local available, tightened in sequence 4 rounds to shorty ratchet tight, one handed. Filled with fluid, 7 quarts, reverse OK, 1st or 2nd at very high RPM, but feels like it is slipping (feels like bad burnt clutch in a standard), will never grap completely. Raise rear tires off ground, Will go in all gears, and shift, but take hugh RPM to start things rolling. Adjusted bands per thread recomendation, same problem.


Hope this is enough info for some one to help me out. Thanks in advance, Frustrated.
 



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Welcome to this forum! It should be a 4R44E in that year/engine size. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench with a hard carry case. Is the switch you are referring to the transmission range sensor?
 






BB, Not sure, but that sounds familiar.
 












Was the EPC solenoid replaced? First try to tighten the bolts with the torque wrench to their proper specifications. You mentioned that the valve body was replaced. Do you know if they installed any kind of shift kit?
 






I replaced the VB with all the soledoids installed, no shift kit was installed. Really think it is the VB bolts torque? Is the EPC seperate from the VB?
 






The EPC is one of the solenoids on the valve body, and the most expensive one on your 4R44E. This photo from Jimbo74 should help you out:
attachment.php
 






All of the solenoids came pre-installed on the rebuilt VB.
 






Should it take a period of time to fill the VB with fluid? Get any air bubbles or pockets out of the valleys and channels?
 












Similar problems

I have a 97 Ford Explorer with 4R44E.

I lost drive last week, so I pulled the tranny and rebuilt it, with help from a veteran tranny man.

I just put a new Filter, clutch/plate kit into the transmission, New Torch converter, all new solenoids and a new sprag.

The tranny ran like a dream after I filled it up and took it for a test drive. I brought it back to the house with a smile on my face and turned it off. The truck sat in the driveway and cooled for an hour or so. I let my wife take it to the store, she came back minutes later and told me it wasn't going into drive again. so I freaked out!!!! I got back into the truck and sure enough no drive....so I put it in 1st low and off she went, manually shifted to drive. I slowed to a stop and pressed the gas while in drive and hey no problems."working in drive" I slowed again to a stop put it in park.then shifted back in drive and now will not lock into drive again. Also the passing gear revs real high RPM's when the gas pedal is punched. When the tranny engages to drive normally it has a real hard time shifting to second gear I have to let off the gas before it will shift to second gear. Any ideas?????? Thx
 






Welcome to this forum! The 97 Explorer has a 5R55E. Did you rebuild the valve body, and use an In/LB torque wrench on the valve body bolts? Did you adjust the bands, and replace the servos? Did you check the fluid level after it warmed up? Did you use Mercon V fluid?
 






I did not rebuild the valve body. I did not use a In/LB torque wrench on the valve body bolts. I did adjust the bands. I replaced all the sensors. I did not replace the servos. I did a fluid check, it is a little too high. I did use Mercon V, I think. the brand is Costal DexMerc. For some odd reason this truck has a 4R44E.

Update.........

If I shift from Park to Drive "NO DRIVE"
If I shift from Park to Low 1 then to drive "DRIVE WORKS" ??????????? What could it be? Thx
 


















There is a special tool for this, but if you don't have one, there are several ways to adjust it. First of all, do you see your back up light turn on when it goes into reverse? Does it feel like it's in the wrong gear when you have it in neutral or park? Does the notch or line on the sensor line up with a groove on the case?
 






No it doesnt feel as if its in the wrong gear. But the position needle in the dash display has always been off. Park is on R so when you shift it to N that is reverse.
 









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Do you have any idea of what mite be causing it to shift erratically. Could it be the valve body seating itself??

This link not working #19

Thank for the help and the quick response
 






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