5.OL shortblock swap

[bigtang]

Advancing(or retarding the cam) small amounts brings the power in 200-300 RPM earlier or sooner in the power range. Since the GT40p setup doesn't make use of high rpm grunt make that work for you by bringing power in a little sooner.

Make sure you upgrade the springs on the heads, they suck and w/ the 1.7 rockers will fail. Use at least the trickflow spring kit from summit.

I saw an earlier mention of the extreme 4x4 cams, good call skipping on those, I think they are a small base circle cam. will technically fit a roller block but you shouldn't use the spider/dog bone stock lifters.
the short bolts go on the bottom the long go on the top. either use all studs or all bolts so you don't have gasket issues since you preload(torque) them to different amounts and they have different properties under stress(head won't lift or squirm uniformly as it heats and cools)

your pistons should look like this, not a full on dish, but a recess w/ the reliefs, this is the short block from my '90 LX 5.0

 

[Flippindabird]

the arp kit, and the factory head bolts are a mixture of bolts and studs...
yes that is the same as my shortblock and the pistons are 8cc dished or recessed however u want to look at it... its a 6-8cc difference from the stock explorer pistons and they(stock pistons) coupled with the gt40p heads make 9.6:1 compression stock... take away 6-8cc and u have 8.8:1/9:1 which is WAY off of what i want for tq... so im having .02" taken off the heads and hopefully that will get me close to 9.5:1 the stock springs are good to .490" lift ive replaced them with new FRPP springs and should they be fine it shouldnt see much severe duty with my wife driving... the cam even with 1.7:1 rockers (which i havent gotten yet ) should be right around that lift if not lower... i was told by an experienced engine builder that if a cam doesnt have advance ground into it then you shouldnt advance it... sounds like a good idea... but i really dont want to have to tear it back down if it doesnt run right... do u happen to have the stock HO cam from that engine by any chance??? btw your engine stand is clean LOL do u wipe it down regularly?

 

[bigtang]

actually the stock cam is in that motor. it made 338 at the tires @ 4* retarded, victor 5.0 intake, z304 heads, 75mm tb, 90mm maf, 1 7/8" kooks headers.

its not the coil bind on the stock springs that causes issues, its the lower spring rates. you want to run the stiffest springs you can get away w/ for the quality of cam you use, that was the reason behind my upgrade suggestion. which frpp springs did you get?

 

[Flippindabird]

they are supposed to match the ecam that i was gonna use untill everyone says it wont make enough low end for the mounty

 

[Flippindabird]

this project is still going, i need timing cover bolts/studs anyone know where i can get them??? ford wants $12 for bolts, $19 for studs, no chain stores have them and summit says i cant just use mustang stuff... this is all thats stopping me from having the long block together...
UPDATE:
had the heads shaved .020" gasket matched and lightly ported, the intake is off being ported and gasket matched waiting on the timing cover bolts then the entire longblock will be complete heads are on and torqued down and the entire valvetrain is installed(HO cam from a 89 GT)...
if this was a Chevy it would be done by now

 

[Dan Whitaker]

this project is still going, i need timing cover bolts/studs anyone know where i can get them??? ford wants $12 for bolts, $19 for studs, no chain stores have them and summit says i cant just use mustang stuff... this is all thats stopping me from having the long block together...
UPDATE:
had the heads shaved .020" gasket matched and lightly ported, the intake is off being ported and gasket matched waiting on the timing cover bolts then the entire longblock will be complete heads are on and torqued down and the entire valvetrain is installed(HO cam from a 89 GT)...
If I had used an Explorer block it would be done by now

I corrected it for you

 

[Flippindabird]

actually dan, you messed it up, the setbacks have nothing to do with the mustang block... the setbacks had to do with the old explorer block being so corroded that the bolts were mostly unsalvageable and the fact that they do not make bolts for the Explorer,mustang block is interchangeable with the explorer block, it has been covered if you READ the rest of the posts in this thread... THE CRANK, and the OIL FILTER MOUNT is the only differences and the crank is the right one... so yeah thanks for your waste of a post

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Wow! Some people just can't take a joke.

Try Fastenal for the bolts. Since the studs are not hardened use allthread for the studs.

 

[Flippindabird]

no worries dan i was not mad ... just seemed like i should correct that for you is all... i am going to call fastenal now they actually have a facility about 35mins from here so thank you for that

 

[Flippindabird]

anyone know what size the bolts. studs should be??? im at work now so i cant just go out to the garage and get the old ones

 

[Flippindabird]

ok got that taken care of, engine is installed... just need to wire it and install upper intake etc etc, shes really coming along now... i woul have pics but its not very impressive i wanted to paint it all and make it look nice before it went in but the wife said "i dont want pretty, i want it DONE " so in it went LOL i will be needing more help with the reassembly so please stay tuned... by the way, crank mated with the flexplate and torque converter no problem so the information found earlier in this thread on the casting numbers for cranks that will fit is spot on... biggest problem in fitment is the oil filter housing from the explorer does not fit, BUT im am just using an aftermarket oil filter relocation kit :/
anyone know if mustang serpentine underdrive pulleys will work??i have a bnib kit from march id really like to use, be worth 10hp or so id guess and i got them for $20 shipped so $2 a HP cant be beat LOL

 

[Dan Whitaker]

i woul have pics but its not very impressive i wanted to paint it all and make it look nice before it went in but the wife said "i dont want pretty, i want it DONE " so in it went LOL

Sounds like my wife. My **** retentiveness and perfection drives her nuts

No the Mustang underdrive pulleys will not work on an Explorer since they have DIS and a shorter front dress.

 

[Flippindabird]

Sounds like my wife. My **** retentiveness and perfection drives her nuts

LOL exactly

No the Mustang underdrive pulleys will not work on an Explorer since they have DIS and a shorter front dress.

ok thank you, already have a buyer for them as a backup!

 

[Flippindabird]

i already thought of a couple questions for you guys lol...
i have the bellhousing bolts & mount bolts in whats the best way to install the torqueconverter bolts?? i do have the proper size ratchet wrench...

what order should i install everything (ie dis accessories upper intake etc etc)
im going to start with the injectors into the lower, what next>?

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you change the oil filter block adapter, the actual block threaded part? That is the difference, the non Explorer adapter is for the FL1A directly. It takes a very large Allen tool to remove the block adapter.

Use a torque wrench for the TC nuts, just let it turn until it reaches the motor plate and it cannot turn any more. The plate holds it still for you to tighten that one nut. Rotate to the rest next.

It's good that you kept the HO cam, that is an excellent cam for anything but a special engine that needs a custom cam.

With the minor porting etc, that you've done, consider working on the exhaust manifolds also. Those are the worst two parts in the whole vehicle.

I have not installed one yet in an Explorer, but I R&R'd my intake recently to change injectors. Be very careful with the EGR pipe, it doesn't take much to create a crack which makes a leak. I tried to leave mine in place and remove the upper two bolts only. For yours I'd say install the pipe and have the EGR attached to it, so the intake elbow goes on last and fits next to it. Have the little EGR sensors attached to the intake elbow first too.

I read the posts about pistons and compression ratios. All of the HO and Explorers have the same compression ratio ratings, the chambers and pistons should swap and not affect the CR. That's in theory, of course machining tolerances have an effect. I'd suspect that the HO pistons are taller given the dish, meaning the overall cc numbers should be very similar. Milling the heads is a good idea, just because any extra compression is more power and efficiency. If you do through PCM tuning, you can make it run on either regular or the higher octane gas, decide then which you want to use all the time.

I would skip the bolt down roller rockers, if not in a bone stock parts combination(the 95 Cobra was), it often leads to slight changes to the valvetrain geometry, to the bad side. More noise, lifter preload being off some etc, it's worth avoiding for a daily driver to me. I like adjustable roller rockers, when the performance gain will be enough to justify the extra labor to verify and set the proper geometry.

For bolt down Cobra rockers, I'd only use those on stock un-milled heads with a stock cam(HO, Cobra etc). If you already have them, at the least check the lifter preload, that needs to be around .035 to be right.

Well done for being patient.

 

[TekMan05]

I'm actually about to engage a re-build on mine as well and have an extra set of GT-40p heads that needs to be machined. Any good suggestions on what I should have done if I'm keeping it as a daily driver? Sorry, I'm not trying to hi-jack the thread but I've been having trouble finding alot of help. I'm talking to someone from flowtech inductions as far as the cam and valve train parts go.
This is what he suggested
Cut the spring pockets for a set of beehive springs -

Do a really good multi-angle competition valve job -

Mill the heads for a little more static compression -

Obtain a quality set of aluminum aftermarket roller rockers -

 

[Flippindabird]

Did you change the oil filter block adapter, the actual block threaded part? That is the difference, the non Explorer adapter is for the FL1A directly. It takes a very large Allen tool to remove the block adapter.

wish i had this info a couple weeks ago, i looked and did not see anywhere to remove it, where is the bolt, inside the tube?

Use a torque wrench for the TC nuts, just let it turn until it reaches the motor plate and it cannot turn any more. The plate holds it still for you to tighten that one nut. Rotate to the rest next.

not quite sure what you mean here, why use a tq wrench?? i dont think it will fit??! does anyone have a pic???

It's good that you kept the HO cam, that is an excellent cam for anything but a special engine that needs a custom cam.:

thanks, thats what my research revealed too, could have used the 93 cobra cam as well, but it was rare and expensive, got my HO for free

With the minor porting etc, that you've done, consider working on the exhaust manifolds also. Those are the worst two parts in the whole vehicle.:

yeah i saw that LOL i never disconnected them from the y pipe, and the engine is installed now... im just going to get a set of headers/or have them made later on, just has to run for now, also have plans to delete the cats and get a custom exhaust done... will deleting the cats effect the computer??

I have not installed one yet in an Explorer, but I R&R'd my intake recently to change injectors. Be very careful with the EGR pipe, it doesn't take much to create a crack which makes a leak. I tried to leave mine in place and remove the upper two bolts only. For yours I'd say install the pipe and have the EGR attached to it, so the intake elbow goes on last and fits next to it. Have the little EGR sensors attached to the intake elbow first too.:

yes i heard that was tricky as well, so i took it to my machinist friend with it still installed and he took it off nice and easy did a great job porting the lower as well, should get rid of some of that nasty restriction

I read the posts about pistons and compression ratios. All of the HO and Explorers have the same compression ratio ratings, the chambers and pistons should swap and not affect the CR. That's in theory, of course machining tolerances have an effect. I'd suspect that the HO pistons are taller given the dish, meaning the overall cc numbers should be very similar. Milling the heads is a good idea, just because any extra compression is more power and efficiency. If you do through PCM tuning, you can make it run on either regular or the higher octane gas, decide then which you want to use all the time.:

ACTUALLY the explorer 5.0L is rated at 9.5:1 and has flat top pistons, the HO pistons are 8cc dish,and its CR is rated at 9:1... hopefully you are right about them being taller i had the heads milled .030" and im hoping im right around 10:1 for the extra tq(not worried about what gas to run)

I would skip the bolt down roller rockers, if not in a bone stock parts combination(the 95 Cobra was), it often leads to slight changes to the valvetrain geometry, to the bad side. More noise, lifter preload being off some etc, it's worth avoiding for a daily driver to me. I like adjustable roller rockers, when the performance gain will be enough to justify the extra labor to verify and set the proper geometry.

For bolt down Cobra rockers, I'd only use those on stock un-milled heads with a stock cam(HO, Cobra etc). If you already have them, at the least check the lifter preload, that needs to be around .035 to be right.:

i just reused the stock ones for now, couldnt find of 1.7s at a price i felt justified the extra 10-15 possible hp... how do you check the preload?

Well done for being patient.

haha it was more like "patience through necessity" just had to wait to get all the parts and information gathered and the TIME to work on it lol
thanks for your help

now can anyone tell me what order i should install everything on the motor?? im going to start tomorrow so i guess if i do it in the wrong order ill find out and have to go back, just trying to save some time here, thank you all.

 

[CDW6212R]

The compression of the Explorer 302 is the same as an HO 302. I know anyone can find lots of books and manuals which differ, from models to years, and between manuals. It's a shame that people who write those manuals, or the editors, they don't do a very good job of it. Word of mouth and research through experience is more valuable than the books, and unfortunately the correct information cannot get the already printed books corrected.

The compression is about 9:1 in virtually any 302 or 351 made since the 80s. I'd bet the same is true for 460's and lots of Ford engines of similar years. Ford wanted the compression there for running regular gas. I wish it was higher like everyone else, 9:5 would be a great level for any stock car, and higher for the sports car etc.

If rebuilding I would see about gaining compression with new pistons, or a combination of rods/pistons. Check prices on strokers, mine was $1900 complete, assembled, though they are up to about $2100 now I think.

The bolt on roller rockers like the OEM 95 Cobra would be nice for a basically stock rebuild, but don't go hunt those if they cost much. A top end RR is about $300, the cheap kind are still $200ish. To use adjustable RR requires head machining, plus the RR studs, and guide plates. The cost gets high if you count it up.

In the end, RR are worth less than 10hp unless you have a serious performance motor, think $3000+ kind. I'd stick with stock rockers unless that budget allows for the other upgrades.

So I'd stick with a nearly stock head rebuild(parts etc), or make them adjustable, add the RR etc. In the end the heads alone push the price up, good used TFS heads turn up for under $750 once in a while. Add up the total cost for the heads before starting them.

 

[Flippindabird]

^^^ thanks don, but my engine is built and in the car LOL...

so if it is 9:1 like your saying, after my .030" mill, then im around 9.5:1ish which is still better lol...
what compression is the 93-95 cobra engine?
because the explorer engine is very similar to that with a smaller cam and 1.6:1 ratio stamped steel rockers

 

[CDW6212R]

Look at the block with the oil filter off. The threaded portion that the filter goes onto has a hole in it. That is a six sided hole, an Allen wrench will remove it. The 302 HO uses standard threads, while the Explorer adapter has metric threads. You have to swap the adapter to match the oil filter which is going to go on the engine.

The torque converter nuts are about 9/16", use a deep well socket on a torque wrench. Get the TC nut located in the starter area, and put the socket on it. When you tighten it, the engine will turn clockwise until the socket is against the trans/motor plate. Just hold it straight and tighten it, to about 35lbs.ft. IIRC.

Remove the rear cats, the computer should not know the difference. The O2's are upstream of the rear cats.

The lifter preload is not really easy to check, but it's not that bad. The quick way is to use the rocker arm bolt to hand tighten until the pushrods touch the lifter. The trick is to measure how far the lifter goes down as the rocker bolt is tightened. The rule of thumb states 3/4 of a turn, but that's based on a certain thread pitch and preload desired. Not all threads or lifters are alike, but smallblock Fords need at least .030-.035 preload. A little more is fine, less is not good.

Do the exhaust and engine/trans mounts first, steering shaft, then the front accessories, leave the upper intake to near the end.